41565chevelle
1/2 ton status
Another...
CK5
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Sliders thread.
- Thread starter 82355
- Start date
yeah, what would a boat guy know about keeping water out of stuff....
I didn't pay attention to anything down low with the bolting up, and "wicking" up... I just looked at the giant gap on top asking for rain water to pour down it...
your telling me a nice bead of silicone here
is going to make water infiltration worse?
how is water going to travel upwards, unless submerged? even than, it could drain from the same access point.....
and god forbid when ya bolt it up ya ran a bead of silicone before on the pinchweld and stopped ALL water infiltration...
Obviously infiltration would not be worse, but draining/drying would be. It's really the same reason most rockers rot in the first place. Water/junk seeps up through the seams and never leaves until eventually it has rotted some new drain holes. I don't think silicone is particularly kind on sheet metal either. Seems to corrode underneath. Maybe seam sealer? I suppose you either want it sealed up around all edges or leave an intentional gap top and bottom. But maybe it's all worrying too much about nothing. If it's driven in road salt every day this is a big deal. If it just sees trails once a month and gets to dry out in a barn it's probably a non-issue. Plus a lot of us are changing things all the time and who know how long it will even stay that way.
Blue have younset your truck down on the slider? Curious if the "ramps" help or not.
berg76
1/2 ton status
2x8, 3/16ths. Welded to body.
Anyone do sliders with saddle gas tanks, and attach them to the frame? I could cut out the rockers and weld them in place, but I'm afraid of the stresses that causes on already-rotten cab mounts.
The problem is the the frame is narrow and the body is wide.
Even though you're attaching to heavier steel at the frame, there is a LOT of leverage against any mount you make there. Hard to say without seeing how bad your cab mounts are though.
Look at my post earlier in the thread. I haven't extended mine into the bed yet. If I do I'll run braces down from the bed floor supports.
Scott - you certainly did a phenomenal job on those sliders; amazing fabrication skills for sure. I really like your style.
Chris et.al. - On a single cab, the distance between the frame and the center of the front body bolt is only 4.5 inches. I can't imagine that additional 4.5" of leverage weakens 1/4" box steel to the point where 14 gauge stamped sheet metal is stronger. I've seen all the pictures of cab-mounted sliders in use and working impressively well; I just wonder what happens on the 20th strong hit. Also, I have z-bar clutch linkage, so during full articulation, I can have issues with the clutch disengaging already, I really don't want to add any additional undue stresses to the body.
This is the quality of my sheet metal. There's a hole on the other side.
My only other idea at this point is to run box tube along the same point as the green unistrut, braced with square tube to the frame (please ignore the hoakyness of the unistrut, it was a test). This would allow for the ability to triangulate between the box tube and frame (as indicated by my masterpiece drawing). Something like this along the frame with 2 triangulated points would also give me an area to bolt a sheet metal skid plate to protect each gas tank.
Like Chris said, the sliders mounted to the frame can create an amazing amount of torque on the frame rail. Most that you see mounted to the frame also have a mounting point to the body.
Problem with that scenario, you effectively remove the rubber body isolation from the picture if its mounted solid to the frame and body.
When we were doing the design work on sliders, we experimented with frame mounting, without the body mounting. 200 lbs of weight up or down on the slider and the frame would deflect considerably. Of course, there are places on the frame that have additional support to prevent the deflection, for instance, any where a cross member is located, much of that deflection would be removed.
Problem with that scenario, you effectively remove the rubber body isolation from the picture if its mounted solid to the frame and body.
When we were doing the design work on sliders, we experimented with frame mounting, without the body mounting. 200 lbs of weight up or down on the slider and the frame would deflect considerably. Of course, there are places on the frame that have additional support to prevent the deflection, for instance, any where a cross member is located, much of that deflection would be removed.
I didn't consider the frame deflection/twist with them attached directly to the frame; that's a solid point.
I don't want to get too far off-topic, but has anyone done a full belly pan that ties into rock sliders? I realize that's a ton of additional weight...just curious.
Also, is there an engineering need for the rubber isolation; or just for comfort?
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I've never slid the length of one on a rock. Have done it on a log and don't remember feeling much of a "lifting" effect in the middle, if that's what you mean. I did climb one big berm at the Badlands where the left slider sat on a rock at the top while a couple tires were floating. The momentum pivoted the truck around on that slider until it tipped forward, the wheels touched and I drove down the other side. It seemed amazing at the time.
A word of advice if you're building sliders to double as steps - design something that can't hold mud.
Dimple dies
When does it end Adam, WHEN?
Do we need to have an intervention?
I bet your first child is going to be name Dimple Dye Deuling haha
Mine:
Cab exo is tied into them as well
Cab exo is tied into them as well
Yes, they would help. Enough.... Unknown.
Anyone have input on slider angle as it relates to a step in a taller truck? Is having the slider level (as opposed to tilted up against the rocker) helpful as a step or is it basically the same as stepping In e door opening?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Interestingly, I have some experience on that with mine. I replaced the rocker box with 2x4 tubing all the way from the A pillar back to the B pillar. That tube also has an extension at the A pillar that goes up and ties into the front kick panel and a cage tube. When I was first fabricating it, I didn't realize the windshield area was way off and had sagged and when I welded everything up, it was "locked" in place. So I unbolted the extension area which just left the hard mounted "slider" on the back of my rocker panel. Without the kick panel bracing connected, the windshield would move forward or back really easily just by lifting up on the box tubing with my floor jack.
So that's a long winded way of saying "no", I don't believe it's "enough" without being tied into the kick panel like the stock rocker box is.
I knew I had seen a pic of a tie in like you're describing but couldn't remember where. I really like that idea.
I do plan to add a cage and tie it to the tub in several places. I'm really just trying to decide on wether to tell my wife sliders or tube doors for Christmas. Function or cool factor??
I do plan to add a cage and tie it to the tub in several places. I'm really just trying to decide on wether to tell my wife sliders or tube doors for Christmas. Function or cool factor??
