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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Mar 8, 2005.
Where is that flip off smiley when you need it
More pics later guys, friend is coming over to help me put the halo and A pillar bars in. no way in hell I can do those by myself.
After that, it's all downhill....just gotta get the main structure in and I can weld it up and throw in the triangulation.
just in cab or going to tie back into the bed? how are you going to tie into the frame? are you?
No I'm not going back to the bed.
And of course I'm not going to tie it into the frame, stupid in my opinion.
can someone ship him a cookie?
How close/rough was the cage "out of the box" in comparison to actual fitment and welding? Lots of grinding and cutting to be done to fit it right?
Pssshhhh, I can do a crewcab cage by myself and you can't handle a single cab?
Oh, my cage is tied into the frame, but then again the body is rigid to the frame.
Is that the S&W cage??
It fits like crap...not even close to fitting right out of the box.
I couldn't get the halo in by myself. I tried and tried...I'm just too small and I only have two arms.
Friend just left....I'm going back to the garage.
Jason is a skinny little 14 year old lookin kinda guy too.....
you might wanna pull that rear glass!
ok i tried to warn yah! easier to get at the rear of the halo for welding also
Tilted the whole thing forward, welded it, put it back into position, and put the windshield post runners in.
I had the S&W in my K5. Looks like you installed the front A-pillar bars upside down. Meaning, the short end goes to the top. Your A-pillars should have been closer to the A-pillar angle. It actually requires you to have the intersection of the top to halo a little back from the corner, then you install a "gusset tube". You could have shortened up your halo by about 6" and had this angle much closer to the A-pillar. If you want, I can dig up cage pics somewhere and post them. Have you fully welded these tubes or can you cut them loose? I waited to fully weld the assembly together after I had every tube in place.
Your installation will do the job asthetically.
I didn't like the way they fit the other way. I tried fitting them that way and I was not pleased. I actually like the way they fit right now.
In reality the bend should have been steeper in those bars so they could have been installed the way you described without moving them too far inboard.
What you see is not fully welded in the pics but it is now. I wanted the "framework" to be fully welded into place. Now I'm going to go put the gussets and such in place.
It did take some time to figure them out on mine. Key is, doing it to what pleases you and you've done that.
I actually did not like how mine were installed, although they fit the A-pillar angle in all planes. I had the "knee" of that tube turned out and it just touched the lower corner of the gauge bezel - I had to notch the corner to remove it. My floor plates just met the corner where the floor starts to turn up to the firewall. Just for reference.
I did not install a dash bar, which would have been disasterous had I rolled - no triangulation up there.
I feel the S&W cage is exactly what it is meant to be. Not super easy, does take some skills to install correctly. Regardless, having a roll cage as long as it is trangulated and tied into the floor with solid material, it will help in a single flop. That should be more than good enough with the wheeling we do here in the Midwest. We are not hardcore like those out west!
Exactly--It woud have been an knee knocker if it was installed the way you did it, that's why it's in there the way it is. I'm not 100% pleased with the way this cage has gone thus far, but I'll get by.
Too bad you didn't install the dash bar. I'd be interested in seeing how that would go.
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