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Sneak peak of my current project

Beens that I'm 6'5 and already have seating issues, knockin the **** outta my knees gettin in/out would just be more aggrevating. I was hoping to hear better results from yer cage project but I might end up bending up my own cage. Will take me some time to get it just right but it'd be worth it in the end.



84_Chevy_K10 said:
Exactly--It woud have been an knee knocker if it was installed the way you did it, that's why it's in there the way it is. I'm not 100% pleased with the way this cage has gone thus far, but I'll get by.

Too bad you didn't install the dash bar. I'd be interested in seeing how that would go. :(
Click to expand...
 
I was thinking about bending a tube to go from horizontal just above the highest point on the dash (gauge pod) and have the bow point forward. Example, if you were to take a copy of your halo and chop just after the bends have a very wide u-shape like below:

"O" being the vertical A-pillar tubes

_O _____dash pad edge________ O _
III\__________________________/
IIIIIIIIIfront toward windshield


Do you like that high tech cad desgin? :D
 
That would be cool.

Mine is likely going on top of my dash.

If I knew how much work the kit was, I probably would have bent my own cage.

Two more bars and it's done though...behind the seat, and the dash bar.:D
 
I'd consider a diagonal brace across the halo too (if you haven't already added it)

The knee bashing was what led me to drop my bars through the corners of the dash. It also got my front down bars really close to the 'A' pillar and made the dash bar easy.

As noted though, you're just not going to get that kind of cage in a kit.

Are you thinking of adding a seat bridge too?

Rene
 
A seat bridge is probably the only thing I'd even consider adding.

10 hours and I'm absolutely caged out for the week. I'm burned, cut up, dirty, and tired.

I'm in here relaxing for a minute, mustering up the strength to go outside and clean up the garage.

All in all, an interesting project. Definitely worth it....but LOTS of work.

If you ever wanted to find out if you could weld out of position, just go ahead and order yourself a roll cage and start installing it. I think I've welded in every possible position today.

Tech tip #2. Flux core wire holds moisture just like stick welding electrodes and when it does, you get spatter all over. Do yourself a favor and get yourself a new roll if your welder has been sitting for a few months since you've used it, it'll greatly increase the performance of the unit as a whole. :grin:
 
FWIW we keep our spools of wire in a heated box. An old file cabinet can be used with a trouble light and a 40 watt bulb. It'll keep your wire nice and dry...

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
FWIW we keep our spools of wire in a heated box. An old file cabinet can be used with a trouble light and a 40 watt bulb. It'll keep your wire nice and dry...

Rene
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip.

I thought it was just me and my non-welding self. It really was the wire though. As soon as I ran out and switched to a new roll, everything got so much smoother, I couldn't believe it.

I have a new respect for anyone that fabricates. I'm seriously tired...more so today than I have been in a long time. Then again, I worked my ass off the last two days at work (and today is my only day off) but damn, even just the part of the cage that I did do, kicked my ass.

As to the gusset tube to the halo...I've got some extra tube. I was thinking the same thing.
 
There's a concept here that got brushed over a bit. When do you want or not want the cage to be tied to the frame?? If it's not tied to the frame, it's just tied to the sheet metal floor then? The reason I ask is that I am about to pay somebody to do a cage on a Manx car, and if I like his work have him do my K5's cage. Obviously, I'll need to give him some detailed instructions.
 
skelly1 said:
There's a concept here that got brushed over a bit. When do you want or not want the cage to be tied to the frame?? If it's not tied to the frame, it's just tied to the sheet metal floor then? The reason I ask is that I am about to pay somebody to do a cage on a Manx car, and if I like his work have him do my K5's cage. Obviously, I'll need to give him some detailed instructions.
Click to expand...

This is a huge contravesy everywhere. In my opinion these frames flex way too much to tie a cab-only cage to the frame. All you're going to do is cause your frame to crack and fatigue the hell out of your roll cage.

Others may have other opinions, but that is mine.....
 
The diagonal brace will help if you impact either front corner of the cab...and when you get rested up you'll want to do it I'm sure.

Fabricating can be, and mostly is hard work. I'm not quite 40 but I'm already trying to plan my way into something a little less physical. Some weeks I do this stuff for 60 hours or more...and I sure don't feel like doing much else afterwards :)

Rene
 
So, you prefer tying it to the floor then? If so, welded or bolted? Just trying to understand here, not trying to cause any controversy.
 
skelly1 said:
There's a concept here that got brushed over a bit. When do you want or not want the cage to be tied to the frame?? If it's not tied to the frame, it's just tied to the sheet metal floor then? The reason I ask is that I am about to pay somebody to do a cage on a Manx car, and if I like his work have him do my K5's cage. Obviously, I'll need to give him some detailed instructions.
Click to expand...

I think if you're going to tie into the frame you need to go all the way. 12 or more points, front and rear susp mounting points tied in, and tons of bracing. If the frame can work against itself it will. It would still likely take a long time to fatigue and crack a frame though.

After caging my K5 my frame already flex's a ton less, because the body bolted to the frame is so much more rigid. With the total area of mount plates, plus bars running along the floors for my seat bridge there is no way the cage can punch through the body either. I have 270 square inches of 1/4" plate for my mounting points. Even double the weight of my K5 on it's roof is only 37 lbs per square inch.

I'm sure there are many differing opinions, this was just my thinking when I did my cage.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Fabricating can be, and mostly is hard work. I'm not quite 40 but I'm already trying to plan my way into something a little less physical. Some weeks I do this stuff for 60 hours or more...and I sure don't feel like doing much else afterwards
Click to expand...

I hear ya there. I'm no master--this cage is far from perfect, but it WILL protect my life, so I'm not overly concerned that it's not astetically perfect.


Here's the latest pic.......

That's it, I'm not going to mess with it until next Tuesday, I'm just too tired to try to do that before work (I work afternoons).
 
I'll take strong over pretty any day of the week. :)

I didn't see a pic... :confused: You must be tired.

Rene
 
Damn Rene, you're too fast for me, I was going to edit my post since I hit submit too quickly.

Here's the pic....

2592cage4.jpg


My buddy that was helping me made the windshiled pillar bars a little different on either side. The halo sits where it is supposed to, but the bars look a little funky with one bend _ and the other - or so. It won't hurt the operation of it though.

That's it with the rear bars tacked and the door bars fitted and just sitting there. I just need to put the other two in, finish weld the back bars and the other two, then install the seat and the door bars and it's done.
 
That'll work.

Cage welding is tough, especially when you've made it really tight to the interior stuff. I had to pull my windsheild to finish welding my dash bar and my halo/downbar joints. It worked out because I was doing my full 'vert chop at the same time anyways, but it was still a PITA.

Rene
 
It may not be as pretty, but it sure as hell penetrates better...plus, when you're in very tight quarters you can remove the nozzle with flux core. As long as you don't touch the contact tip to anything grounded, that can make the difference between getting the entire weld in or not.

Rene
 
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