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Sneak peak of my current project

Bah....Only reason I'd ever use it is if I absolutely had to weld something in the wind. And penetration isn't an issue on .120 wall material.:)
 
It's also a lot more mobile...maybe you just need more practice sweetie. I don't have any trouble making flux core look good. :D


Rene
 
I was actually going to buy a hose/regulator, but I wanted to get started early today so I just went with FCAW.

You're right in that it does penetrate a LOT better than MIG, especially on a small machine like mine.

My welds look pretty good, not like kidjethro's, but good enough. The dry wire did a lot better. I'm not an expert welder nor do I play one on TV. This isn't about trying to show off or anything, this cage is to protect my life in the event of a rollover.

Thanks for the tip about removing the Nozzle. That'll help quite a bit.
 
Just watch you don't touch anything grounded with the contact tip...or you'll be replacing it a lot sooner than you planned.:)

I'd certainly go as far as you can possibly go with the nozzle on, then try for the last bit without.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Just watch you don't touch anything grounded with the contact tip...or you'll be replacing it a lot sooner than you planned.:)

I'd certainly go as far as you can possibly go with the nozzle on, then try for the last bit without.

Rene

I keep plenty of extra contact tips around. They're cheap enough. :grin:
 
tRustyK5 said:
It's also a lot more mobile...maybe you just need more practice sweetie. I don't have any trouble making flux core look good. :D


Rene

Sweetie? :blush:

LOL...Smart ass. :D

I held a cert with fluck core wire many years ago. Unlimited thickness, all positions. On 1" plate. My flux core welds look just as nice as any other weld I do, I just hate using it. Welds prolly look better than yours...honey. :grin:
 
I just re-certified on my flux core a couple of months ago. Unlimited thickness, all position. Radiograph tested. :p: Same for Microwire and Aluminum Mig.

I was referring to the little home job flux core though...you do know how to make that look nice don't you? ;)

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I just re-certified on my flux core a couple of months ago. Unlimited thickness, all position. Radiograph tested. :p: Same for Microwire and Aluminum Mig.

I was referring to the little home job flux core though...you do know how to make that look nice don't you? ;)

Rene

Shiiiiiiiit....I could weld with 2 batteries and a coat hanger and make it look nice. :p:
 
Yeah, you probably could Joe...

Hell with some of the machines I've been forced to use over the years the battery and coat hanger would have been a lot more fun.

OK, I think this post has been hi-jacked enough. :blush:

Rene
 
skelly1 said:
There's a concept here that got brushed over a bit. When do you want or not want the cage to be tied to the frame?? If it's not tied to the frame, it's just tied to the sheet metal floor then? The reason I ask is that I am about to pay somebody to do a cage on a Manx car, and if I like his work have him do my K5's cage. Obviously, I'll need to give him some detailed instructions.


Hate to pull this discussion back "on topic".....(especially since Rene and Joe were just about to "whip em out" and find out who's more manly :grin: )

BUT, I think one other point about rollcages.....whether you feel they should be tied to the frame or not, is that you are building a protective coccoon for yourself. To that end, you should make sure that in a crash (or rollover) you are in a fixed position within the cage...... in other words, the seats should be integrated into the protected space of the cage.

If for some reason the cage DID punch through the body panels, you would NOT want to be sitting in a seat that was bolted to the floor. You'd want to be part of the solid structure, even as the body peels away. What would be even worse, is if your seatbelts were tied to the cage, but your seat wasn't......

Scenario 1: The body moves and your seatbelt gets looser on you
Scenario 2: The body moves the other direction and the seatbelt crushes you

Neither one is very good. :crazy:


So, I guess in my estimation if you're going to put in a cage for safety....integrate the seats and seatbelts too. It's not THAT much more work, and the final product will protect you far better.

.
 
I agree. I'm not going to tie my current bench seat into the cage, but I *am* going to get some new seats, which will be tied to my cage.
 
Went out and took some more pics in the daylight. More work on my next day off. :grin:
2592000_0805.JPG


2592000_0804.JPG


http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/2592000_0804.JPG
 
tRustyK5 said:
It may not be as pretty, but it sure as hell penetrates better...plus, when you're in very tight quarters you can remove the nozzle with flux core. As long as you don't touch the contact tip to anything grounded, that can make the difference between getting the entire weld in or not.

Rene

*sort of off-topic* But what nozzle are you referring to? My Lincoln came with a couple tip "shrouds".... One is the normal looking Mig/Gas shroud that covers the wire outlet and has abotu a 1/2" opening or so to work with gas... The other was a very small and slim "shroud" that screws on and leaves the contact tip open and exposed. In the directions they said to use this small shroud for Flux and the large "normal style" for gas.. Is the samll cover less common and just a Lincoln thing?

*back to your regularly scheduled programing** :D
 
I can't believe how intrusive that bought cage is into the cab area. That A-pillar bar is WAAAAY out there. I know it is hard to get around the dash, but there are a few bends that could have remedied that. Still cool, always a good idea to have a cage protecting you. Going to cage a 79 of my friend's next week, will post pics on Pirate and link here.
 
blacksheep10 said:
I can't believe how intrusive that bought cage is into the cab area. That A-pillar bar is WAAAAY out there. I know it is hard to get around the dash, but there are a few bends that could have remedied that. Still cool, always a good idea to have a cage protecting you. Going to cage a 79 of my friend's next week, will post pics on Pirate and link here.
\\If you look a few pages back, Mudzer was saying how Tim put the A pillar bars in upside down. If put in the other ay, they bar would be a little closer to the dash and have a similar angle bend as the factory window pillar.
 
Emmettology 101 said:
\\If you look a few pages back, Mudzer was saying how Tim put the A pillar bars in upside down. If put in the other ay, they bar would be a little closer to the dash and have a similar angle bend as the factory window pillar.
Yeah, I had read all of that, but still couldn't believe it was that far out and in your face
 
Emmettology 101 said:
\\If you look a few pages back, Mudzer was saying how Tim put the A pillar bars in upside down. If put in the other ay, they bar would be a little closer to the dash and have a similar angle bend as the factory window pillar.

False. If I had them the other way, it'd be even more intrusive. Farther inboard. The tube wasn't long enough the other way to go all the way outboard where it is right now, and still touch the halo.

It's actually positioned as un-intrusive as it can be as it was designed.

It's one of the few things I'm not so proud of about this cage, but it's a kit...and it's not going to be perfect.
 
Yeah, there is no kit you're gonna find that will hug all the interior contours with 1/2" clearance...

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Yeah, there is no kit you're gonna find that will hug all the interior contours with 1/2" clearance...

Rene

There should be, there is no excuse for this other than that they tried to make it fit everything.

This stuff is bent on a multi million dollar, automated bender. You can program it to make you tube donuts and it'd probably do it.

Someone just poorly designed this cage.

I wonder if the Jeg's cage is better...it's specifically for pickups.
 
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