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So F***ing pissed rant. RUNNING WOO HOOOOO Q??

Just so that everyone knows, I climbed up and looked down the hole. Looked good. Checked the slot size for the oil pump rod on both priming and dizzy, was good. Manifold is new, bought new, and correct. If anything, it would be machined wrong. Seems kinda off on the hole, compared to how off it is on the heads. Weird. BUT...

I got it in.
You can see how scratched up the body is just above the gear. So I sanded it down some, just to take the burs off. It was scratched all the way around. If I was forcing it to one side, it would be scratched more on that one side. (well it kinda was)

I remember my priming tool being tight the first couple times around, till the anodized color was gone. So I took some plastic calipers (not much good for precision, but maybe something will show up using them) So I measured the priming tool. Not reading it (wont help) I held them in place and put them over the MSD body. I could feel the caliper arms spreading as I put in on. I'm talking tiny tiny amount.

So I took some 80 grit sand paper and went to town. Then finished with 300 grit. Grabbed the priming tool, lined up the pump rod where I wanted it. Put the dizzy in, past the gear, turning clockwise a tad, and PLOP....all the way down.

How the fuk do you like them apples??? Either MSD's machining was off, or my block's hole is too small. GOD dammit it's toooooooo easy when things are right. gezzz:doah:

on a side not, it is still a little to one side. Hopefully the gasket covers the entire hole.
 
I will say, the collar on the dizzy body, where the gasket goes, it touching the side of the hole...passenger side rearward.

but I wont argue cause this is my first project ever and am stupid happy I don't have to take the manifold back off.
 
describe what you mean by "sanding" :popcorn:

tolerances are set for stack-up clearances... hope you didn't get too aggressive ("slop" is a bad thing)
 
no no, no slop

I think I need to call MSD for something. The dizzy came with some ~1" O-rings. I don't know if they are supposed to go on the dizzy body or not. I hate how it came with no directions, nothing.

Also, I'm turning it over but it's not firing. I have 12v to the coil but I don't hear so much as a cough.
 
You're probably 180 degrees out if you got no fire. Keep trying and you'll eventually get raw fuel into the exhaust and get a nice big backfire...

Can't count the times I've been 180 out when I thought for sure I was good to go.

Rene
 
Yeah, I know, I know. I get the same thing all the time.

"Its too big, its too big"
I always say, " Heck no damnit, the hole is too small......"

Either way, damn I'm glad it finally went in. This thread was starting to haunt me.
 
K85 Octane said:
no no, no slop

I think I need to call MSD for something. The dizzy came with some ~1" O-rings. I don't know if they are supposed to go on the dizzy body or not. I hate how it came with no directions, nothing.

Also, I'm turning it over but it's not firing. I have 12v to the coil but I don't hear so much as a cough.
Click to expand...

Those o-rings go on the distributor body in the places I circled with a red circle. They are there to make the seal for the oil galley that is open in that area between them.

MSD.jpg
 
thank you Scott, it figures, too bad I already put it in. O well, I'll take it out and throw those on.

Even if I was 180* off, wouldn't I still get a sputter or cough? I've got fuel, lots of squirts. I had my brother put his finger in the spark plug hole, then told me when it started pushing air out. I then brought the crank mark up to zero. That's where I dropped the dizzy in with the rotor under my #1 plug wire. I will try again tomorrow, going through the routine once more.

And thank you guys, everyone that helped. This has been one giant project for me, having never done any of this before. CK5 has been my only help. Thanks
 
O well, I'll take it out and throw those on.
Click to expand...

Should be easier next time, you're experienced now.

Be sure the holes they have to pass through are smooth, and be sure to put some motor oil or grease on them before you put the dizzy back, so they don't get cut.

Maybe a little on the hole edges too.
 
glad you were able to get it in and seated. if you still need help my offer stands. if your not 180 off and you feel comfortable its timed right next step is diagnosing you need fuel, spark and compression for combustion im going to assume you have compression and fuel based on your descriptions so well rule that out. that leaves spark, check power and ground to the dizzy make sure the pickup is connected to the cap. if all that checks out pull a wire off a spark plug put an old spark plug in the wire and lay it so the body of the plug grounds on the engine and crank it see if spark jumps the gap. if theres no spark something is not connected or broken. if theres spark then its not timed right.
 
once you get your o-rings in and reinstalled, you need to check for spark.. whether it's 180 out or not... it sounds like your not firing...

also.. if it's 180 out, don't bother restabbing the dizzy... just bring the motor to TDC, check which post the rotor is pointed at, and lace it from there...
 
ryoken said:
once you get your o-rings in and reinstalled, you need to check for spark.. whether it's 180 out or not... it sounds like your not firing...

also.. if it's 180 out, don't bother restabbing the dizzy... just bring the motor to TDC, check which post the rotor is pointed at, and lace it from there...
Click to expand...

I would avoid doing this for one reason alone, IF you ever had any issues with the rig and needed to take it to a shop for repairs and you did not tell them this was done the shop could spend some time trying to figure out what is going on and that will cost you even more moeny. I know most people on here work on their own rigs but you never know what can/will happen in the future and it is just something that can be avoided.
 
4X4HIGH said:
I would avoid doing this for one reason alone, IF you ever had any issues with the rig and needed to take it to a shop for repairs and you did not tell them this was done the shop could spend some time trying to figure out what is going on and that will cost you even more moeny. I know most people on here work on their own rigs but you never know what can/will happen in the future and it is just something that can be avoided.
Click to expand...

x2...do it right; plus you'll get more experience installing it again...the right way.
 
My plugs are all one rotation clockwise... :whistle: Pure laziness is all and I don't have anyone work on my stuff (except Sweetk30 when he's around :thumb:)
 
Whoa how did I miss this thread?

Do not put the o-rings on the bottom of the distributor unless the block has been machined to accept them. If the block is not machined you have a good chance of cutting the o-rings off and having them float around in the oiling system... NOT A GOOD THING.

If you need to talk to somone on the phone give me a call and I'd be more than happy to do my best to walk you through everything. My work # is 915-856-2739; direct here at MSD or if it's the weekend I'll PM you my cell #.

-Phil
MSD Ignition
 
1) I have fuel and compression. I have 12v on the coil wire. So I'll need to check at the spark plug to see if it's firing. If it's not, then I'm guessing something inside is off.

2) I was thinking ahead before I put the dizzy on. I marked the top cap, that goes over the plug wires, with the firing order. So if I changed my wires now, OMG that would drive me crazy :)

3) I'll get some more answers Thursday. I was out snowboarding again today. Nice powder. I ate **** pretty good, face first down hill. Whole face was red and head thumping, but I got up after a minute, finished, and proceeded to do 4 more runs.

4) Thanks Phil. I'll PM you. I have a question about the ground for the dizzy. I don't see one. I think my spare green wire is for a tach. I have my autometer tach connected to the cap. Is this right? It could be grounded through the body, via the hold down collar. Unsure... There's no ign box btw.
 
On the large cap HEI's there is a ground strap (sometimes a wire) that goes from one of the coil body bolts to the terminal that the module plugs into on the cap.
 
4X4HIGH said:
On the large cap HEI's there is a ground strap (sometimes a wire) that goes from one of the coil body bolts to the terminal that the module plugs into on the cap.
Click to expand...


..and if it's missing you will fry it...ask me how I know.:whistle::whistle:
 
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