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So F***ing pissed rant. RUNNING WOO HOOOOO Q??

Don't get discouraged, this is part of building a truck...happens to us all in some form or another.

Rene
 
Oh no i thought in your previous post you were saying you havent re up'd your subscription and it kinda sounded like you weren't. Thats why i was saying good luck. LOL I can be a dick but I wasn't intending to be. haha. Sorry about getting stood up too. Believe me when i say enjoy being single. Because once they get ya that blazer build is going to go a a snails pace!
 
sorry bro
just a little touchy right now
I got stood up tonight, meaning no one is coming down to help with the blazer.
I'll always be part of CK5 if I can, kinda happy I paid for 2 years while I could.

I will probably give up and have it towed to a shop I've worked with before. I'll just pay the bill with my CC and be done.

I have a couple job interviews coming up. That will distract me in a good way. One is for a Japanese Supermarket for part time, but I can easily live on part time pay for now, plus I can expand my japanese, which I would LOVE.
The other is for Orielly's, I got one about 3 miles from my house. I ride my bike over there some times. I don't know yet what they can offer, but I'd rather have the supermarket job.
 
Well, I'm not sure if I fixed the problem yet, I still need to test the truck out. Currently I don't have it. I removed the oil pump and the pressure valve was stuck in the channel with a little rust. So I gave it back to my uncle and he gave me a new one. It's a high volume Mellings btw.

It's installed but still at the shop I took it to. They are doing a bunch of other little stuff as well. I wont know till Thursday cause I'm busy with some temporary work till then. If it's all good, it goes to the exhaust shop, then carb guy. :)

Here it's being loaded up, only 10ft from where it's been for the last year. Poor grass.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114648&stc=1&d=1300026860
 
Well, I'm not sure if I fixed the problem yet, I still need to test the truck out. Currently I don't have it. I removed the oil pump and the pressure valve was stuck in the channel with a little rust. So I gave it back to my uncle and he gave me a new one. It's a high volume Mellings btw.

It's installed but still at the shop I took it to. They are doing a bunch of other little stuff as well. I wont know till Thursday cause I'm busy with some temporary work till then. If it's all good, it goes to the exhaust shop, then carb guy. :)

Here it's being loaded up, only 10ft from where it's been for the last year. Poor grass.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114648&stc=1&d=1300026860

I would recommend you get that pump out of there and use a standard pressure/volume pump. Chevy engines DO NOT need a high volume or high pressure pump. If you do decide to keep it in there then you MUST use the intermediate shaft with the steel coupler as the high pressure pump puts alot more stress on that shaft and if it is the stock shaft with the nylon coupler it will break and cause you all kinds of grief. :deal:
 
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Are you talking about just that little "coupler" piece between the pump and distributer?

Kind of, the stock set up used a steel shaft with a nylon coupler that connected the oil pump to the intermediate shaft, when using either a high volume or high pressure pump you MUST replace the factory set up with a new intermediate shaft that has a steel coupler pinned to the shaft.
 
While the pan is off, it wouldn't hurt to check both rod and main bearings.

One of my 454's did that with the pressure due to a spun bearing. Pressure would be 60psi when cold but dropped down to 2-5 psi due to the bearing.
 
the pump that was bad was a standard Mellings, I chose the high volume. Dammit
the pump is back in and the truck is ready to pick up. I just can't until get some time. I will finish off getting the truck running and stable, then pull the crossmember and drop the pan.

Can I get one of those intermediate rods from a local place? Or is this a Summit order kinda thing?
 
First check with whoever did the work and ask them which style is in your engine. Did the shop provide you with the oil pump or did you supply it for the shop? If the shop supplied it there's a good chance they know that the intermediate shaft needed to be changed for the one with the steel coupler and they might have put one in already. Personally, if you are going to drop the pan to replace the shaft I would just replace the pump for a standard volume/pressure pump.

To answer your question, any auto parts store can get you the intermediate shaft with the steel coupler. The number is a Melling IS-55E.

IS-55E HP oil pump shaft with steel coupler.jpg
 
I supplied the pump and standard shaft with new nylon collar. I'm kinda stuck with the pump I have now. I can get a steel shaft from Orielly down the street, they have them on hand. I'll just go that route and ask really nicely for them to take the pump out again LOL. Dammit. But they can have it swapped out and ready for me Thursday easy. As long as the high volume wont hurt anything, I'll keep it (since I already paid for it) and continue my progress.

Thanks Scott
thanks everyone, heres hoping this was actually the problem with my oil pressure. It should be, but I haven't tested it yet. The last time I ran the motor, I had no fluctuation in oil pressure once it warmed up, revving the engine and all.
 
damn, I'll have to change the shaft myself or wait 2 weeks before they can do it. The truck will be moving Thursday to a couple different shops, I would think it should be fine for now.

Can I drop the shaft down through the dizzy hole?
 
damn, I'll have to change the shaft myself or wait 2 weeks before they can do it. The truck will be moving Thursday to a couple different shops, I would think it should be fine for now.

Can I drop the shaft down through the dizzy hole?

Negative, the shaft is made in such a way that it will not come out through the top when you pull the distributor. I would seriously get rid of the pump and put a standard pump in there. I've seen too many failures from SBC engines that ran either a high volume or high pressure pump.
 
Negative, the shaft is made in such a way that it will not come out through the top when you pull the distributor. I would seriously get rid of the pump and put a standard pump in there. I've seen too many failures from SBC engines that ran either a high volume or high pressure pump.
Any theory why? I have a HV Melling now but haven't put the engine together yet.

Another interesting read on defective oil pumps:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143630&highlight=melling

Started another thread on oil pumps:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2887458
 
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4x4high, Is it due to the fact that standard motors arent set up to have that volume of oil pushed threw them? I heard on time that its because it pumps the oil out of the pan faster then it can drain back down into it. So if you had like a seven quart pan, you are ok with high volume.
 
Dang! Just read what Shawn posted up! Sounds like stay away from melings! Dont know what other options there are but the thread read like this, warnings for,

Melling M55
Melling M55A
Melling M55HV
Sealed Power 224-4143
Moroso 22100
Moroso 22135
Canton #21-500
 
4x4high, Is it due to the fact that standard motors arent set up to have that volume of oil pushed threw them? I heard on time that its because it pumps the oil out of the pan faster then it can drain back down into it. So if you had like a seven quart pan, you are ok with high volume.

That is a myth that has been around for years...think about this. The pump can only pump as much oil as can travel through all the passages within the oiling system. It would be impossible for a high volume, or any pump to pump more oil through the system than can physically go through it. Can't change the laws of physics.
The only need for a high volume pump would be for motors that are constantly run at high rpms.
Never a need for a high volume pump on a street engine...period.
 
4x4high, Is it due to the fact that standard motors arent set up to have that volume of oil pushed threw them? I heard on time that its because it pumps the oil out of the pan faster then it can drain back down into it. So if you had like a seven quart pan, you are ok with high volume.

Pretty much nailed it. The pump can pump faster than the oil can return which then can leave the pump to try and suck air and then you end up grenading an engine because of lack of oil to the bearings. Also a high volume or high pressure requires more force to spin the pump which means that gets transmitted to the cam and distributor gear. Lots of times when you inspect the gear on the distributor and cam you will find more wear on both versus a standard pressure/volume pump. There is also the risk of shearing off the pin that holds the distributor gear to the distributor shaft but fortunately when that happens the engine will die since the distributor can no longer spin which means no more spark.
 

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