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So they say 14bff with detroit is bomb proof... well...

I just got a harbor freight press to help me do ring and pinion on my 12 bolt(with cupon it was 90 bucks). got the dial indicator with magnetic base from summit for 50 bucks and the beam torque wrench from local auto parts for 30. dont think it is too bad to do it yourself.
 
so i got all the bearings off... well neighbor works at a stealership and he hooked me up. Took them 20 minutes. I have most of the parts and picking up rest today. Tore it all down last night and brake cleaned every part, wiped with a rag and used the air compressor to blast metal shards not cleaned off.

so back in 1978 was the casting on these parts this bad or is my part wrecked?

2017-02-24_07-17-57 by Jeffrey Riggs, on Flickr


my migshift plywood workbench on plastic saw horses..

2017-02-24_07-18-57 by Jeffrey Riggs, on Flickr


hope to get some of this together tomorrow.
 
well she is back together.
all good.. my father has been a mechanic (retired now) since he was 16 and he came over. we did it and wasnt hard nor easy...

we got the pinion adapter in but realized didnt have it in right (yes it goes in a certain way)...
then when in... then the carrier wouldnt go in easily like it came out.. ughhhh..

also i was using my Kevlar gloves while putting the ring gear on but couldnt get bolts started so took my left glove off then didnt want to get the inside of my glove dirty so i held the ring gear with that hand. Then while trying to torque i realized pain in my hand...

RING GEARS ARE SHARP!!!!!!!

so 3 fingers cut kinda like a papercut which isnt deep but annoying and stings today...


all in all was a great day but my father did express one HUGE CONCERN!!!!!!!

on the pirate article it says to tighten the ring gear bolts to 120ft/lb.. my father asked if he is smoking crack... a 3/4 bolt MAX torque speck is 80 before it is becoming close to breaking.... he even googled it on his phone ( i know my redneck father with a smartphone shocks me as well) but he pulled up 3 articles stating to not go over 80 ... so we went 80..

and another side note.. best way to torque the ring gear bolts as we couldnt hold it still is to get it in the truck. torque what you can then put truck in N and rotate it then put in gear or park and tighten.. repeat till done.... made it so much easier...
 
RootBreaker said:
on the pirate article it says to tighten the ring gear bolts to 120ft/lb.. my father asked if he is smoking crack... a 3/4 bolt MAX torque speck is 80 before it is becoming close to breaking.... he even googled it on his phone ( i know my redneck father with a smartphone shocks me as well) but he pulled up 3 articles stating to not go over 80 ... so we went 80..
Click to expand...

I did some googling and come up with 120ftlbs on those bolts everywhere. They are 9/16" (bolt size not head size) fine thread, all the charts say grade 5 when torqued dry 120ftlbs when torqued oil lubed 90ftlbs. My understanding is that loctite isn't a lube. ( at least that's what she said) :haha:

630fafd46361322ce0273f3cd9f70b83.jpg
 
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ChrisPerry said:
I did some googling and come up with 120ftlbs on those bolts everywhere. They are 9/16" (bolt size not head size) fine thread, all the charts say grade 5 when torqued dry 120ftlbs when torqued oil lubed 90ftlbs. My understanding is that loctite isn't a lube. ( at least that's what she said) :haha:

View attachment 225710
Click to expand...


so i guess ill have to do an oil change later and give a gusto at torquing... BUT.. when we were trying to get the torque wrench to click at 120.. it just wasnt going and felt like it was gonna break if we kept pushing. I had pretty much all i could put into it!!!!!!!

"and thats what I said!!!!"
 
Yes I realize. But the torque is pressure against the head of the bolt or nut. So oil on the threads should have little or no effects.
 
dangerdog said:
Yes I realize. But the torque is pressure against the head of the bolt or nut. So oil on the threads should have little or no effects.
Click to expand...

Think of it another way. We use torque to indicate the amount of pressure the bolt is holding against part being held. What we are really needing to measure is the amount of stretch a bolt is experiencing because we know how much a bolt can hold under x amount of tension on the bolt. Torque is merely an observation of that, if you oil the bolt it will turn easier therefore by placing a rotational load, torque, on the bolt it will not stretch to the same length because the friction is reduced by the lubricant. In some cases, the temperature is measured as well because that too will change the amount of force the bolt is applying to clamp the object in place...
 
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You are correct, it is the pressure on the head. However, the torque value is only an easily measurable expression of approximated axial clamp force on the threads. You can obtain the appropriate clamping force at a lower torque value by lubrication of the threaded fastner.
 
superbuickguy said:
Think of it another way. We use torque to indicate the amount of pressure the bolt is holding against part being held. What we are really needing to measure is the amount of stretch a bolt is experiencing because we know how much a bolt can hold under x amount of tension on the bolt. Torque is merely an observation of that, if you oil the bolt it will turn easier therefore by placing a rotational load, torque, on the bolt it will not stretch to the same length because the friction is reduced by the lubricant. In some cases, the temperature is measured as well because that too will change the amount of force the bolt is applying to clamp the object in place...
Click to expand...

The nerds come out of hiding when the discussion turns to friction...
 
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