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Some electrical trouble

Why are you butchering up your wiring to your relay? The only wire I recognize is the tan with the white tracer which goes to fuel pump and you have that jumped to some who know where, so basically you have bypassed the relay without even trying to find out the problem.
 
Run power to the red wire with the single connector off the relay. That is the sole reason its there, to test function of pump/relay. Whatever copper I think I see, needs to be undone and put proper. No butchering of wiring allowed. lol
 
OK.. Well I replaced one fusible link on the the firewall, and checked the starter fusible link also bad.. I didn't replace that one yet. Now when I turn the ignition on I hear the pump running. I can smell gas. But now it doesn't fire up.
 
diesel4me said:
Check the ECM fuse in the fuse box...maybe it blew for some reason..
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I started fixing the other fusible link, but grabbed the wrong size gauge to fix it. And I dumped some more gas In the tank.. Just in case it was empty. Will update tomorrow. It's hard to do so since my truck is "out in the hills" I don't get service
 
Alright so I got the fusible links fixed. But now when I try and start the truck it cranks cranks cranks almost starts, I had a buddy cranking the truck and I was watching the injectors. It looked like it was spraying way too much fuel.. Bad FPR?
 
What does the pattern look like? And how are you determining its way to much fuel? If its not spraying in a nozzle like pattern then you need new injectors. Perhaps theyre stuck open.

Whats the back story to this truck? Did it sit for a long time or something? Buy it not running?
 
Stomis said:
What does the pattern look like? And how are you determining its way to much fuel? If its not spraying in a nozzle like pattern then you need new injectors. Perhaps theyre stuck open.

Whats the back story to this truck? Did it sit for a long time or something? Buy it not running?
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It's a cone shape spray, they don't drip after It stops cranking.
I bought the truck with no engine /trans/Tcase . It wasn't running. I rolled my other one and swapped it over
 
3039tev.jpg

where is the fusible link from the orange wire
 
Just a guess here, from years of reading obscure schematics, I suspect that you have a slight labeling conflict here.

What we call fuse links, are pieces of smaller gauge wire with flame retardant insulation that act as fuses.
But, by definition, any fuse can be a "fuse link" The key here, is the name below the symbol.

Which is fuel pump fuse, 20 amp.

In other words, my wild a** guess, is its a fuse in the main panel labeled fuel pump fuse.....

Of course, there are lots of folks here who have actually had hands on these trucks more than me, and they will chime in if I am wrong when they get online.
 
Fordum said:
Just a guess here, from years of reading obscure schematics, I suspect that you have a slight labeling conflict here.

What we call fuse links, are pieces of smaller gauge wire with flame retardant insulation that act as fuses.
But, by definition, any fuse can be a "fuse link" The key here, is the name below the symbol.

Which is fuel pump fuse, 20 amp.


In other words, my wild a** guess, is its a fuse in the main panel labeled fuel pump fuse.....

Of course, there are lots of folks here who have actually had hands on these trucks more than me, and they will chime in if I am wrong when they get online.
Click to expand...

I checked fuses. But the orange wire isn't getting power.. But that's the least of my worries right now.. I just found out that the tail housing threads that bolt up the adaptor for my tcase are stripped...
 
Well, on the bright side, if the fuel pump does not get power, you won't be putting any load on the adapter............

Where is the strippage? Can you replace that part, or is it part of the main housing?
I'm thinking Helicoil, one of the newer thread repair systems, or redrilling and tapping larger.
 
Fordum said:
Well, on the bright side, if the fuel pump does not get power, you won't be putting any load on the adapter............

Where is the strippage? Can you replace that part, or is it part of the main housing?
I'm thinking Helicoil, one of the newer thread repair systems, or redrilling and tapping larger.
Click to expand...

It's into the tranny case. The 4 bolts where the adapter bolts to the transmission.
 
Quite sure it has happened here before. With the level of experience on this forum, and the amount of daily breakage that goes on, I imagine there are several folks who have dealt with it.

I would have to see the housing and judge the thickness of the remaining metal to make an accurate recommendation.

Your best bet, would be to start a new thread with the problem in the title. There are some really good thread repair systems out there, if there is enough metal to work with.
But, if there is enough metal, you might be better off just drilling to the next larger size and enlarging the mounting holes in the adapter.

OH, and probably not the problem, but are you sure they are the right bolts? If someone else has worked on it, they might have accidentally used metric instead of SAE, or reverse.
 
I concur. Now that I've seen a wiring diagram. I would say look at main fuse block inside the cab. I'm also thinking there maybe a single fuse in a weather proof housing by the relay.
I also didn't realize there is oil pressure switch in the circuit.
I wish I knew what kind of test tools this kid has.
Sounds like he just shorting and jumping wires out in the boonies to see what works. He is about one short away from frying his ECU.
We need him with a multimeter, hell even a test light, to test a circuit and tell us it works or not ando we tell him what to look for next.
 
Fordum said:
Quite sure it has happened here before. With the level of experience on this forum, and the amount of daily breakage that goes on, I imagine there are several folks who have dealt with it.

I would have to see the housing and judge the thickness of the remaining metal to make an accurate recommendation.

Your best bet, would be to start a new thread with the problem in the title. There are some really good thread repair systems out there, if there is enough metal to work with.
But, if there is enough metal, you might be better off just drilling to the next larger size and enlarging the mounting holes in the adapter.

OH, and probably not the problem, but are you sure they are the right bolts? If someone else has worked on it, they might have accidentally used metric instead of SAE, or reverse.
Click to expand...
thank you fordum.
You're right. They were standard I went and got some 10x1.5 bolts and she tightened up
 
JDNobodi said:
I concur. Now that I've seen a wiring diagram. I would say look at main fuse block inside the cab. I'm also thinking there maybe a single fuse in a weather proof housing by the relay.
I also didn't realize there is oil pressure switch in the circuit.
I wish I knew what kind of test tools this kid has.
Sounds like he just shorting and jumping wires out in the boonies to see what works. He is about one short away from frying his ECU.
We need him with a multimeter, hell even a test light, to test a circuit and tell us it works or not ando we tell him what to look for next.
Click to expand...

The orange wire is the only one not getting power.
I tested with a test light. And I got the truck with this hell of a wiring mess.
 
Well since you are testing I don't exactly know where the fuel pump fuse is at and nobody with a 87 blazer is chiming in, a internet search come up with this.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110818133234AAlRDw9

If the fuse is good, you may have a "open" circuit.
How many orange wires are coming out of the the firewall bulkhead connector?

Edit, That answer may be wrong since I don't see the "ECM-B" fuse in this diagram.

Edit- There appears to be a "ECM-B" fuse in the later square bodies.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216858

87 blazer fuse box.jpg
 
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