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specific make/model recommendations for AC components

BoondocK5 said:
Not sure how much of compressors are aluminum. But, that's the only to make chunks. So, yeah, compressor time
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I did hook up a freon can that was under very high pressure so maybe that could have made chunks? The compressor is still working too.

No matter what, the compressor is getting replaced but I'm trying to figure out if something else might be busted.
 
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6872xtc said:
I may be incorrect, but I believe that I compressor housing is aluminum. Check this with a magnet.
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You're totally correct, housing is aluminum. Thing is so damn heavy I assumed it was all steel.

So the metal bits must have come from the compressor.
 
Most of the system is aluminum, but the only moving parts are in the compressor, so I don't know where else it could come from. Sucks to have to flush everything again, but it looks like your new condenser is fin and tube, so at least it can be flushed.

I don't know what the rush is, though, we're having daytime highs in the upper 60's. :whistle:
 
Might want this for this flushing
Yonligonju AC Flush Kit, Auto air Conditioning Pipeline Cleaning Tool Set,R134A R12 R22 R404 R410A AC System Flush Kit Can Tool with 220PSI Gauge, Air Fittings and Hose https://a.co/d/09KVNQ4o

Buy the ac Flush solution local. Be advised it is very flammable.
 
I've had really good luck with the non-chlorinated brake cleaner and shop air. Still $10 a can, but, at least I can use it other stuff, also.
 
I think I remember using mineral spirits once and then following it up with brake clean, then air. I don't know if that's recommended.
 
Got the new compressor in there and its blowing warmer now :frown. Its 54° while driving at 45 MPH with only the center vent open. At 88° ambient, low side sits at 44 PSI and high side sits at 235 PSI. Does it simply need more freon? I put over 3 cans in, it didn't run right, so some was removed. I wonder if there's too much oil in there? I drained the compressor and put 3 oz back in it (3 oz per it's label), 3 oz in the evaporator, 2 oz in the accumalator and 1 oz in the condenser.
 
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At this point I am wondering if the guages are reading correctly.
You have both valves closed after you charge, and only the lid valve open while charging?
 
Not sure how I could test the gauges. But maybe I should just get the $65 set at HFT.



Wes Harden said:
You have both valves closed after you charge, and only the lid valve open while charging?
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Yes, assuming lid=low.

I think there's too much oil in there. The compressor says to fill with 3oz. How do I figure out the amounts for the rest of the system? They're not written anywhere I can find on the vehicle. The evap is original and the accumulator and condenser are stock replacements.

4seasons says "8oz mineral oil, 36 oz R12" but the sticker on the evap says 3.25 lbs R12 so I'm not sure what to follow.
 
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If you have the time leave the gauges connected over night. In the morning before you run the engine, and ac, the pressure should read @ the same as ambient on a full system
 
Wes Harden said:
If you have the time leave the gauges connected over night. In the morning before you run the engine, and ac, the pressure should read @ the same as ambient on a full system
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I'll do that tonight.

Occom's Razor says I'm messing up the oil. The compressor I bought doesn't say whether it uses PAG 46 or PAG 150, just says "PAG oil". I've been putting ester oil in the system in case there were any remnants of mineral oil but at this point there shouldn't be any mineral oil left.

- At this point, I should switch to PAG oil, right?
- Which PAG oil should I use with this compressor?
- Whats the least amount of oil I can put in an 89 Blazer's evaporator, accumulator and condenser? I attached a pic of the only useful sticker on the vehicle.
- Should I even be putting oil directly into the accumulator?
- Should I pour oil directly into those components or inject it into the high side while the compressor is running with one of these?
- Is oiling an 89 Blazer's AC system already covered in a thread at ck5.com or somewhere else? (I couldn't find anything useful myself)

blzr_20240617_121032.jpg
 
Pag 150,
You most certainly want to add oil to all the components,
I would limit the oil to 6 oz total. Be sure the R4 has been drained. It doesn't have an oil sump, so just enough oil to coat the parts, should be able to turn disc be hand
 
You should probably be weighing what's going in, instead of targeting a pressure. The "correct" pressure is different every day. There are a few rules of thumb that get thrown around, such as:
  1. Multiply the R-12 weight by 0.8 (i.e. 42 oz)
  2. Multiply the R-12 weight by 0.9, then subtract 4 oz (i.e. 43oz)
  3. Do one of the above, then bump up the charge slightly until the pressure starts to climb
Like I said before, I don't do any of those. I typically charge until the outlet of the evap is cold, then add until the temp (evap outlet) levels off or wants to go up. I just monitor high-side to make sure it doesn't get high. If you think about it, there's only 2 reasons you even care about pressure: 1) pressure is temp and temp is what you care about 2) you don't want the high side to vent or damage something.

You must have a pretty good idea how much is in there now. Really, you're lucky to have 54 degree air with the low side at 44psi, since that's like 48 degrees at the inlet and it sounds like we still don't know anything about the outlet temp. Did you do anything differently with this install? New tube, vacuum held for a while?
 
Blue85 said:
You must have a pretty good idea how much is in there now. Really, you're lucky to have 54 degree air with the low side at 44psi, since that's like 48 degrees at the inlet and it sounds like we still don't know anything about the outlet temp. Did you do anything differently with this install? New tube, vacuum held for a while?
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Initially 40 oz (80% 3.25lbs) and then lower values. Either blew warm or cycled due to low pressure.

The 2 different things were installing an orifice tube repair kit and vacuuming down the system and extra 45 minutes, 90 minutes total.

Looking at the symptoms and after talking with Wes, I put too much oil in there, 9 oz total. I'm going to flush and put a lot less in there this time.

PXL_20240621_042447974.jpg

PXL_20240623_013622824.jpg
 
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Is this a decent plan for adding a total of 6 oz of oil to the sytem?

  • Drain the compressor overnight, rotating it by hand every so often
  • Flush the evaporator
  • Flush the hot line with brake cleaner
  • Flush the hoses with brake cleaner
  • Use PAG 150 oil (ester oil was previously used)
  • Put 2 oz in the suction port of the compressor, rotate it a few times by hand and then pour the excess out (the goal is to lubricate it but prevent hydrolock and not over-oil the system. Its easy to add oil after the system is charged but it's not easy to remove oil after the system is charged)
  • Directly pour 2 oz into the evaporator
  • Directly pour 2 oz into the accumalator
  • Don't add any oil to the condensor since 1 oz was already added when it was installed and it hasn't been flushed
  • After charging, add more oil with an injector if there are signs of insufficient oil

Stuff I plan on using:
 
Forget all of it and do a full-top conversion? :hack:

How do you know how much oil is in the condensor? Hasn't it been in the system running?
 
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