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Spindle nut torque warning!

89 jimmy

89 jimmy

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I just replaced my rotors, bearings, pads and followed the GM manual for torque values. It says to tighten the spindle lock nut to 185ft pounds and 160ft minimum. I feel that is just too much torque for those or a mis-print in many manuals. I tightened to 185ft lbs and the lock washer (with the holes in it) spun and dig into the threads passing up the groove or channel in the spindle. In doing so it also broke the “tit” off the preload washer. I mean think about it, how are the small threads on that spindle channel going to hold back 185ft lbs. ?Now I have to buy a new spindle when mine was in perfectly fine shape. What are your thoughts on this?????
 
I’ve always done 160 on my 10 bolt because that what my GM manual calls for. Never had a problem. I’m sure the engineers did their calculations.
 
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Ya, my factory GM manual says minimum 160. Given the fact that the threads on the spindle and the tit are the only thing stopping that washer from spinning I still think even 160 is to much. I’d be willing to bet many folks have a broken tit on the first nut and don’t even know it. Maybe those torque values are labeled that high for liability reasons. That lock nut was no-where near that tight when I took it off. Many others say the same. I’m just really upset that I followed the manual and specs to a tee, and now ruined my spindle
 
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Are you sure your torque wrench is accurate? Never had an issue myself....
 
i go snug with hub / rotor / drum spinning . then back off as needed to align keyway or washer holes . then the outer gets the GOOD-N-TIGHT method . . . no problems for years and years .

dont forget also fine thread holds up better on high tourqe values over course thread does . more surface area to spread out the load .

i always wanted to get a set of these for my built 60 and 14ff axle combo and run stage 8 nut kit . http://www.jantz4x4.com//jantz.php?p=detail&pro=wba
 
Brand new snap-on torque wrench with certification. The problem is the flat nub on the washer will spin and eat the spindle threads. When that happens the tit on the first nut is bye bye and your spindle is useless.
 
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Could that have been in lbs?

The rule of thumb I've always heard (and used) was 45 ft lbs.
 
I tighten that outer nut to insane torque. I tighten is as tight as I can with my 1/2" breaker bar. Never had an issue
 
89 jimmy said:
Brand new snap-on torque wrench with certification. The problem is the flat nub on the washer will spin and eat the spindle threads. When that happens the tit on the first nut is bye bye and your spindle is useless.
Click to expand...

I think you’re working with beat up or damaged hardware. Even with that tit broken I can’t see how the washer could spin.
 
89 jimmy said:
I just replaced my rotors, bearings, pads and followed the GM manual for torque values. It says to tighten the spindle lock nut to 185ft pounds and 160ft minimum. I feel that is just too much torque for those or a mis-print in many manuals. I tightened to 185ft lbs and the lock washer (with the holes in it) spun and dig into the threads passing up the groove or channel in the spindle. In doing so it also broke the “tit” off the preload washer. I mean think about it, how are the small threads on that spindle channel going to hold back 185ft lbs. ?Now I have to buy a new spindle when mine was in perfectly fine shape. What are your thoughts on this?????
Click to expand...

My thoughts? You're not the first person to question this spec. But the 160 ft-lb number is what GM specified, and also what the Military has listed in the most recent CUCV manuals (for both the 10-bolt and D60 trucks). A whole lot of those trucks have received that treatment without issue, and the updated manuals I can find are sticking with the old number.

I agree with skunked, you have damaged hardware. If the washer is turning it is not engaged correctly in the spindle. Maybe the spindle was damaged, maybe the washer. It sounds like you put the nuts on in the correct order. But if not, that's a really easy way to break that pin. But the pin should never be what holds it, that's what the keyway is for.
 
The washer spins from the insane amount of torque against the threads in the spindle keyway trying to stop it. The only thing keeping that washer from turning is those threads . I’ll try to post some pics. Regarding the final torque for the locknut I’ve read many, many opinions here all the way from 50ft pounds, all the way up to 190 to 205foot-pounds. That grooves in the spindle threads can only take so much before it gives. The spindle and parts were in perfect condition. bottom line I just think it’s too much torque. I knew better and I think next time I’ll rely on the “ feel” method for certain things. Just thought I’d give you guys a heads up so it doesn’t happen to you.
 
stage 8 ftw....

I set up my D60 with them, and have never had a problem...
as far as stockers, I just use my long 1/2" breaker bar and use the good-n-tight method...

you could actually drill and tap the outer nut 10-32 in a couple of spots and use some short Allen socket set screws to keep everything lined up and locked in place.
 
I really appreciate all your input. I don’t want this to happen again with the new spindle. I also got new spindle washer and nuts. I think I’m going to go 80ft lbs and call it a day. 160-185 ft lbs is ALOT. It’s been a long time since I’ve posted here. Glad to be back on.
 
Will that stage 8 locknut kit fit with the warm premium hubs? I see it has a snapring on the end where as the warn instructions say to remove ALL snaprings for clearance issues
 
89 jimmy said:
The washer spins from the insane amount of torque against the threads in the spindle keyway trying to stop it. The only thing keeping that washer from turning is those threads . I’ll try to post some pics. Regarding the final torque for the locknut I’ve read many, many opinions here all the way from 50ft pounds, all the way up to 190 to 205foot-pounds. That grooves in the spindle threads can only take so much before it gives. The spindle and parts were in perfect condition. bottom line I just think it’s too much torque. I knew better and I think next time I’ll rely on the “ feel” method for certain things. Just thought I’d give you guys a heads up so it doesn’t happen to you.
Click to expand...

Sure you didn’t put the inner nut on the outside and catch the pin on the lock collar?

I bottom mine out with the impact. 3 ugga duhgas per request of @ryoken
 
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