I doubt the little tiny attachment points in a Subaru wagon are made to strap the weight of an engine in a crash, strap it all you want that engine my still kill you.
CK5
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Squarebody CHOP Shop
- Thread starter kennyw
- Start date
I doubt the little tiny attachment points in a Subaru wagon are made to strap the weight of an engine in a crash, strap it all you want that engine my still kill you.
If the straps are done properly and you have the back seat as a second layer of safety, the engine shouldn't move.
When I have heavy loads to strap on a moving vehicle I don't only strap down to secure but I also pre-tension from the back so the engine cannot gain momentum to break loose.
I have tested my setups a few times.
I did have failures early on until I started that strap.
I don't care how well you strap down your engine. The laws of physics are against you with a sudden stop.
A 440 Mopar big block engine went through the bed and back of the cab when my FIL put one of my trucks in the ditch and stopped by hitting a culvert at 45 mph. He is lucky it went through the passenger side.
A 440 Mopar big block engine went through the bed and back of the cab when my FIL put one of my trucks in the ditch and stopped by hitting a culvert at 45 mph. He is lucky it went through the passenger side.
Hitting a ditch or a wall is different from a panic stop, I know the laws of physics as much as you do, I never said it will hold in that situation. In a panic stop the tires lack of traction will allow the total weight to keep moving at the same speed.
Hit a wall and obviously the weakest link will be the strap.
Still pissed about that one.
I lost my drive shaft bolts that connect to my t case. I know I can get new bolts but they don't have a shoulder on them. Do you have any?
Probably, are you referring to bolts that go in the front driveshaft flange? Most of the time they are not flanged bolts.
WA - OEM Bolts and Hardware
I have parted out nearly 20 trucks in the last 5 years, tossing screws, bolts, brackets, spacers, etc into buckets as stuff comes apart. If you need an OEM bolt, I probably have a few extra. Recently, I have been getting better at sorting them so I can find them when needed. $10 shipped minimum...
ck5.com
Hmm mine were they must have not been stock.Probably, are you referring to bolts that go in the front driveshaft flange? Most of the time they are not flanged bolts.
WA - OEM Bolts and Hardware
I have parted out nearly 20 trucks in the last 5 years, tossing screws, bolts, brackets, spacers, etc into buckets as stuff comes apart. If you need an OEM bolt, I probably have a few extra. Recently, I have been getting better at sorting them so I can find them when needed. $10 shipped minimum...
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Not flanged, but I assumed you meant shoulder bolts like Kenny has shown.
Those bolts are standard 7/16-14 UNC x 1.0" long grade 8 hex screws that are fully threaded. The difference between a screw and a bolt is the washer like feature on the bottom of the head.
McMaster-Carr
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The top bolts are also fully threaded, just blurry enough you cannot see the threads. It was hard to get a good pic of those as I was climbing under the pallet racking in an area with poor lighting.
Mine were shoulder bolts. Weird.
A shoulder screw is a completely different thing. I have never come across shoulder screws in this application. They would prevent getting the driveshaft tight to the flange as they would bottom out the shoulder before putting tension on the bolt head if used correctly.
Had 1/4 inch of shoulder. I assumed to keep the thread from running in the holes.
I don't know about 1/4", all my original bolts had about 1/8" shoulder.
And I agree I prefer having a shoulder and not having threads rub on the inside of the flange
I had a few visitors the last couple days. Yesterday was the buck crossing the yard. This morning it was a pair of coyotes. I'm glad my dogs have good recall as they were out when the coyotes started to approach them.
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Shank or shoulder? Shank is the unthreaded portion of nominal diameter. Shoulder is larger than nominal thread diameter. It is possible GM used partially threaded screws at some point in production, I just do not recall coming across any off hand.
It is considered better to have unthreaded shank in the joint vs fully threaded when you rely on those bolts to properly center the joint, and I would go that route if I had a choice. But the place where they would actually shear is at the flange to driveshaft plane where you cannot avoid having threads, so that is the weakest part in a shear load and unavoidable. And in this case, the flange has a shoulder to center the driveshaft as well. That shoulder takes all of the shear loading and prevents the bolts from seeing it.
That leaves the only load on the bolt in this application being the tension load of torquing the bolt for clamping the driveshaft to the flange. There again, having full vs partial threads makes no difference in this application as the threaded portion is still the weakest spot, anywhere along the bolt, but they generally break at or below the interface of the joint as we have all experienced.
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I thought it was the opposite of that.
Not in mechanical engineering terms. However, it is not uncommon for people to mix up names either. But google "bolt shank" and you will see it commonly being referred to as the nominal diameter unthreaded portion of a bolt/screw. Another term I have seen used is "body" in place of "shank".I thought it was the opposite of that.
