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Stalling and Code 42

I can’t recall exactly what I did when I replaced it. I will try cleaning it out again tonight possibly. I’m on a 10 on 4 off schedule out of town so I’m still working everyday until Wednesday so if I don’t figure it out by the time I go home I will pull the throttle body off again and just do a thorough cleaning when I get home . I do have a question on the base gaskets though. I seem to remember there being 2 styles, 1 solid between the bores and 1 open between the bores if I remember correctly. Not sure which I used but I think I just matched the one I removed. Does it make a difference which style you use? And which is the correct one?
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Oh ok thanks. I almost want to say the one I took off and matched to was the open one so it’s possible I have the wrong one on there. Not sure what issues that could cause if it is wrong. I sure wish my memory was better lol.
 
I wonder if I can peak down the bores and see if it’s the right one. I supposed it doesn’t matter if I pull it to give another thorough cleaning. I will just put the right one on then
 
90RedBurb said:
I wonder if I can peak down the bores and see if it’s the right one. I supposed it doesn’t matter if I pull it to give another thorough cleaning. I will just put the right one on then
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You can probably cut a strip of paper 1/4” wide and see if it passes easily through to the other bore. Kind of like a feeler gauge.
 
I have seen the solid one split and part it can been seen when viewing down the bore, this was always a source of a vacuum leak. I am not sure why the big blocks were different. Only ever worked on a few of those.
 
I want to say I’m about 90%ish sure that the open one was on it and that’s what I replaced it with but I will find out later I guess
 
So I started my rig after work and tried something slightly different. I turned the key to the run position and waited about 20-30 seconds before cranking it and it fired right up without noticeable black smoke. So I’m that time when cold does the iac return to the position it needs to be in for cold start and maybe my iac is dirty or lazy and needs longer to return to it’s cold start position?
 
could be a slow iac, I have in the past used a light machine oil on the threaded shaft. Also might be high resistance in the wiring
 
Ok. I think the old iac is in the glove box or door pouch. Maybe I will clean it up and swap it back in just to see if anything changes. That’s easy and free so can’t hurt
 
Can anyone tell me what the wires that ground on the back of the passenger head are on my 90? It appears there is an engine to firewall ground and 2 other wires by best I can feel. One of the wires is tan in color and that’s the wire I think may be damaged within the sheathing. I’m going to try and remove the bolt and repair it anyhow but was just curious
 
Scratch that I thought it looked tan but it is black however the sheathing was gone where I was looking and it looked tan
 
Well guys I just made the 400 mile drive home and no ses light or codes. It would appear the demons have been exercised and the problem is cured! Thanks for the help!
 
Possibly but I’m leaning toward believing it was that white wire that was poorly wrapped behind the distributor. Not sure what that wire is but it looked like a factory crimp/split from one white wire into 2 white wires. I looked through a diagram online but couldn’t find a white wire that split like that
 
Well guys I have close to 1000 miles on now and no code or light. My rough start problem is back though which seemed to go away when I fixed the leaky injector leading me to believe it may be leaking again but I haven’t pulled the air cleaner to look.
 
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