Kain
3/4 ton status
Check timing to it will affect the way it starts cold and hot
CK5
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Starter woes. Stumped
- Thread starter 76k5blazerr
- Start date
Probably. I thought they were pretty decent units. I've had one on my 76 for several years, it has manifolds though.
Is it possible he has bad exhaust valve seats causing the headers to get hotter than normal? Or running rich enough that gas is burning as it's leaving ...... Just a suggestion.. duralast and vatozone stuff sucks but not usually that many units with the same issue in a row. I'd try looking from a different direction once
Actually the new one that I put on Monday with the new heat shield is working pretty good. Today is my second day driving it without problem. I think the new heat shield may have helped it out. Knock on wood.
Kain
3/4 ton status
i have headers in mine and without the heat shield it will kill the starter within a week.
and mine are coated, granted its paint on stuff from eastwood but cut temps in half
and mine are coated, granted its paint on stuff from eastwood but cut temps in half
Hoss7979
1/2 ton status
I run the DE Electric mini starter on the mud truck w/ a 468 due to clearance and heat issues...hasn't let me down in 4 plus years now!!!
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-305-350-454-mini-racing-pmgr-starter-ht-sdr0031-l.html
Maybe if it made some more power.....
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/chevy-305-350-454-mini-racing-pmgr-starter-ht-sdr0031-l.html
Maybe if it made some more power.....
Kain
3/4 ton status
^^ I'm going to get me one of these^^^
I've seen where just painting the starter with aluminum paint helps a lot as far as reflecting the heat from headers or the exhaust manifold..
Makes one wonder why most starters get painted black--though black painted air cooled engines are proven to run cooler,I think in the starter's case it would help it absorb more heat,not dissipate it..
Makes one wonder why most starters get painted black--though black painted air cooled engines are proven to run cooler,I think in the starter's case it would help it absorb more heat,not dissipate it..
I have full length headers and a reman stock starter. It would start fine cold and not start hot until I gave the solenoid more current. The factory wiring through the bulkhead to the ignition switch and back down to the solenoid is undersized. This is why the Ford solenoid conversion works on a Chevy - the solenoid has proper wiring. The Chevy solenoid is still handling full starter current after the conversion.
I have never had to do the Ford solenoid, neither did my dad, he had 300K miles with headers.
Kain
3/4 ton status
sometimes your lucky sometimes your not..........
Sorry to be the grumpy old man,
But NO! I still has a lot to do with the parts that you buy!!
But no problem, I see it everyday when people look past the actual problem because they don't like what someone is saying.
Rant off.....
We rebuilt the alternator for my son's duramax yesterday. It hadn't failed, but it was original to the truck, 180K. We found the proof when we tore it apart.
Here is a picture of it running on the test bench, notice the oscilloscope on top to watch how clean the output is.
Stock stuff put out 115 amps from a 105 amp unit when cold. Cheaper than an upgrade right now.
But NO! I still has a lot to do with the parts that you buy!!
But no problem, I see it everyday when people look past the actual problem because they don't like what someone is saying.
Rant off.....
We rebuilt the alternator for my son's duramax yesterday. It hadn't failed, but it was original to the truck, 180K. We found the proof when we tore it apart.
Here is a picture of it running on the test bench, notice the oscilloscope on top to watch how clean the output is.
Stock stuff put out 115 amps from a 105 amp unit when cold. Cheaper than an upgrade right now.
Just drove home from work 15-20 mins. Shut the truck off for 5 mins to simulate stopping for gas, had no problem starting it back up. Now I am going to wait another 25 mins and if it starts then with no problem I am going to call it good.
I agree with that...Been fooled many times thinking "But that parts new...So it's gotta be good" These mega auto parts stores are the worst, there's a reason why their so cheap.....The rebuilds gets farmed out to the cheapest bidder who ends up using the cheapest parts.....And people wonder why the starter fail.
Why not take take your starter or alternator to a local re builder? I have a guy around here that I've been going to for 20+ years ( He's also my battery guy too ) and never had any problems. I know and trust that the starter/alt I install will not give me a problem, and for me that's the most important thing.....Not price.
Dam now I sound like a grumpy old man too........Oh that's right......I am old and grumpy.....But know my starter will work when I need it to.
That is why I tend to go for used OEM parts at salvage yards--they often are better and cheaper than any parts store re-man or new ones that were made in Mexico or China...
Many of the mass rebuilders supplying parts stores use cores that may have had overheated windings that "test" ok,but in the real world wont conduct enough amps to crank over a engine with high compression or heat issues..cranking with a low battery can kill the windings on a armature or field coils,yet still pass a bench test OK..
Many "rebuilt" starters only get just what new parts are needed,they re-use everything else...
Many of the mass rebuilders supplying parts stores use cores that may have had overheated windings that "test" ok,but in the real world wont conduct enough amps to crank over a engine with high compression or heat issues..cranking with a low battery can kill the windings on a armature or field coils,yet still pass a bench test OK..
Many "rebuilt" starters only get just what new parts are needed,they re-use everything else...
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You can also look for a shop that rebuilds the OEM and you will end up with a better unit. There was one in Montrose that I used to take my stuff to. Cost a bit and you had to wait but the end result was worth it.
The picture that posted above was at Western Alternator in Montrose on Tuesday.
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Yep that's the one I used!!
