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Steering Knuckle

9

90GMCJim

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Im getting ready to rebuild the front end. Ball joints and bearings. Stock 10 Bolt.

Im still pretty new to all this 4x4 stuff.

After some looking around im seeing a Dana 44 flat top passenger knuckle. Aftermarket spicer and Reid racing knuckle.

I found some knuckles on facebook market. Dana 44 passenger and driver flat top knuckles tapped and ready to go. As i search on google i found a new one on Ebay for 130+ passenger only

Is there any issue with either or? old stock, new, aftermarket big brand?

I have ball joints on the way, bearings and races. Rotors and u joint.
 
You need them to match ish.
The knuckles 75 up are not flat knuckle except the driver side.

So if you buy just the passenger match what you have

75 earlier the ball joint taper direction is reversed, so you either need both sides, or order the missing from that set
 
How can i identify these? since i ordered ball joints do i order different ones or just buy a passenger aftermarket knuckle. I just want to make sure if i lift the truck i have everything ready. Would hate to do this twice.









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Ball joints will be the same

Check which direction those are tapered. If they’re opposite, you can still use them, especially if you have offset centered tie rod ends
 
This is possibly a dumb question, but are you changing things with the steering in the future?
Are you going to install crossover steering and you currently have stock push/pull?
Have you found any problems with your current knuckles?
I am curious why you are looking at replacement knuckles.
 
6872xtc said:
This is possibly a dumb question, but are you changing things with the steering in the future?
Are you going to install crossover steering and you currently have stock push/pull?
Have you found any problems with your current knuckles?
I am curious why you are looking at replacement knuckles.
Click to expand...
I’m not sure what lift I’ll be going with. Not sure if even will lift it. Since I’m replacing ball joints I’m going to have everything out. Was just thinking should I do this now or wait to see and possibly do this all over again down the road to swap the passenger knuckle for crossover steering.

Currently at 235k miles. Ball joints and tie rods are shot. I just purchased new wheels. 17x8. I’m leaning towards 33’s. I currently have 33’s.

Local shop is doing 4.56 gears. I was told I currently have an auburn locker with 3.73 gears. Sucks driving.

In a nutshell
 
I bet you just need to clean and pack the beatings . I have hardly EVER had to replace them in my YEARS or mechanic in shop or personal stuff .
 
90GMCJim said:
I’m not sure what lift I’ll be going with. Not sure if even will lift it. Since I’m replacing ball joints I’m going to have everything out. Was just thinking should I do this now or wait to see and possibly do this all over again down the road to swap the passenger knuckle for crossover steering.

Currently at 235k miles. Ball joints and tie rods are shot. I just purchased new wheels. 17x8. I’m leaning towards 33’s. I currently have 33’s.

Local shop is doing 4.56 gears. I was told I currently have an auburn locker with 3.73 gears. Sucks driving.

In a nutshell
Click to expand...
Ahh, planning in order to have options!
I see. Been there myself.
Another question for you to answer for yourself is, what is the future usage for your truck? What kind of driving and wheeling will you be doing?
From what I know, you need 2.5" of lift to make crossover work. I know that it also takes trimming of the stud on the draglink end at the pitman arm to clear the bottom frame rail flange, since the mostly flat pitman arm is necessary.
No big problem, just FYI.
I would suggest thinking about how tall of a truck you may eventually want or how tall of a tire. What kind of plans do you see in your future driving? The push-pull can work for a good amount of things, obviously. I do like the crossover on my 2 trucks, so i understand.
 
6872xtc said:
Ahh, planning in order to have options!
I see. Been there myself.
Another question for you to answer for yourself is, what is the future usage for your truck? What kind of driving and wheeling will you be doing?
From what I know, you need 2.5" of lift to make crossover work. I know that it also takes trimming of the stud on the draglink end at the pitman arm to clear the bottom frame rail flange, since the mostly flat pitman arm is necessary.
No big problem, just FYI.
I would suggest thinking about how tall of a truck you may eventually want or how tall of a tire. What kind of plans do you see in your future driving? The push-pull can work for a good amount of things, obviously. I do like the crossover on my 2 trucks, so i understand.
Click to expand...
That’s what I’m really going back and fourth with. Truck will only see pavement. I actually enjoy the stock height or what I assume is stock height. I purchased from a buddy and I think he added a leaf in the rear. If I do lift I would go 2-4 inches of lift.

I need to purchase new tires for the new wheels. That’s another thing. 33’s or 35’s.
 
90GMCJim said:
That’s what I’m really going back and fourth with. Truck will only see pavement. I actually enjoy the stock height or what I assume is stock height. I purchased from a buddy and I think he added a leaf in the rear. If I do lift I would go 2-4 inches of lift.

I need to purchase new tires for the new wheels. That’s another thing. 33’s or 35’s.
Click to expand...
That sounds like l would recommend leaving it push-pull steering. No concerns about the drag link hitting springs or anything. It's also easier in the aspect that you can keep the factory sway bar with just a few ORD links rather than buy their sway bar to use with crossover.

If you enjoy it as is, be cautious with changes. As an old guy, I can tell you that the extra height can be an annoyance sometimes as far as getting into the truck. But I like the look with a lift!
 
90GMCJim said:
That’s what I’m really going back and fourth with. Truck will only see pavement. I actually enjoy the stock height or what I assume is stock height. I purchased from a buddy and I think he added a leaf in the rear. If I do lift I would go 2-4 inches of lift.

I need to purchase new tires for the new wheels. That’s another thing. 33’s or 35’s.
Click to expand...
Pavement?
33s
 
Depends on your gearing.
Most oem gear trucks won't perform well with 35s. 35 will need 4" or body mods to clear.
Wheel offset makes a difference.
33s and 2" lift will work. Can possibly be done with no lift, again wheel choice will matter.
Gear change will be most likely needed.
If remaining near stock hight and mosty street/fire road type terrain cross over isn't needed.
Nor is a lift. Some good 31" tires snd possibly a rear traction aid is all you need

Edit missed yhe post with the 4.56 gear change. 35s will work well with that gear.
 
Last edited:
Wes Harden said:
Depends on your gearing.
Most oem gear trucks won't perform well with 35s. 35 will need 4" or body mods to clear.
Wheel offset makes a difference.
33s and 2" lift will work. Can possibly be done with no lift, again wheel choice will matter.
Gear change will be most likely needed.
If remaining near stock hight and mosty street/fire road type terrain cross over isn't needed.
Nor is a lift. Some good 31" tires snd possibly a rear traction aid is all you need

Edit missed yhe post with the 4.56 gear change. 35s will work well with that gear.
Click to expand...
I’m scheduled for front and rear gear change. My buddy said he installed an auburn locker. The shop will check if it’s good and go from there. New axles and gears for the rear posi if auburn is bad.
Front gear change.

He said going from 3.73 to 4.11 isn’t worth it so go for 4.56 instead

4.56 with 33’s should be ok?
 
Remind us what transmission you’re using

Then tell us about what you’re using for an engine


If it never sees dirt, 35s and 4.56s isn’t worth the incurred cost
 
350 700r4
Right now with 33’s it feels like the motor is lugging.
Was told current gears are 3.73
 
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