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Stomis' Return of the Truck Build

Stomis

Professional Amateur
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Stomis submitted a new Build:

Stomis' Return of the Truck Build

Well someone requested some pictures of the bed I'm working on in the tool shed. IMO its going slow but coming out really well. Heres a day and a half of work.

Theres also a crappy pic of how my welds are coming alot. A straight bead and a stitch. Could always use advice on how to improve to please critique.

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Read more about this build here...
 
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The fourth pic maybe looks like there's not enough penetration (no jokes, guys :surepal: )

You doing gas over MIG, or flux core? How big a welder?

For stuff that has some thickness (as opposed to sheetmetal), when in doubt I'd turn the heat up ... and focus on the "stack of dimes" look. Depending on how easy it is to get in there it may be a pain to doodle neatly, but eventually your wrist will do it without you thinking.

(Jeez, penetration, wrist action ... :doah: )

And while my welds don't look like they came out of a nose, I'm no pro, so I'll happily defer to any of our more experienced members if I'm off base.

Oh, and I like the square tube for a bed as opposed to round. Easier to solidly attach stuff to, i.e. bed floor, tool boxes, whatever, and IMO looks better. If it were me I'd cover the exposed open ends, but welding the *end* of the tube does require some finesse and patience. At least, welding it without burning through and swearing repeatedly "Bzzt ... dammit! Bzzt... dammit!..." :haha:

-- A
 
The fourth pic maybe looks like there's not enough penetration (no jokes, guys :surepal: )

You doing gas over MIG, or flux core? How big a welder?

For stuff that has some thickness (as opposed to sheetmetal), when in doubt I'd turn the heat up ... and focus on the "stack of dimes" look. Depending on how easy it is to get in there it may be a pain to doodle neatly, but eventually your wrist will do it without you thinking.

(Jeez, penetration, wrist action ... :doah: )

And while my welds don't look like they came out of a nose, I'm no pro, so I'll happily defer to any of our more experienced members if I'm off base.

Oh, and I like the square tube for a bed as opposed to round. Easier to solidly attach stuff to, i.e. bed floor, tool boxes, whatever, and IMO looks better. If it were me I'd cover the exposed open ends, but welding the *end* of the tube does require some finesse and patience. At least, welding it without burning through and swearing repeatedly "Bzzt ... dammit! Bzzt... dammit!..." :haha:

-- A

I'm welding fluxcore with a 140amp. That stitch weld only looks like that cause it was a second layer of weld over a single bead. I gotta get some gas...

As for the ends it just happened to be time to wrap it up for the day. Everything is getting capped, already did the two ends facing the cab before I installed the tube and it came out real good, just turned the heat down and moved fast.

The bed is nowhere near done. Its still getting two rolls bars to make racks for my kayaks, rail and tailgate in the back and plating with in-laid LEDs in the back. Plus I gotta put my spare, hi-lift, and toolboxes in it.
 
There are a couple of spots in pic 4 that don't seem like the weld got any penetration at all.

I would suggest you turn your line speed down and slow down your puddle pushing.
 
There are a couple of spots in pic 4 that don't seem like the weld got any penetration at all.

I would suggest you turn your line speed down and slow down your puddle pushing.

Yeah I can tell when I look at them. USUALLY its my second bead that would do this because I would be in a rush. Theres a regular bead under neath that that I made sure penetrated but that you for the advice. I think its just a matter of slowing down. I turned my line speed down a little and started to get some burns.
 
I'm not any expert by any means either, but with a 140 I'd turn the wire speed all the way down and the heat all the way up and take your time.

Lookin' good though! :waytogo:
 
I'm not any expert by any means either, but with a 140 I'd turn the wire speed all the way down and the heat all the way up and take your time.

Lookin' good though! :waytogo:

Thanks man. I'll give that a try tomorrow. IDK how much I'm gonna get done since the girly is here, I got work wed and then going to pick up a parts truck. Hopefully I'll be able to get the taillight section done.

I'll make a terrible rendition of what the finished product will look like in paint, gimme a min :D
 
Here you guys go. I could always use suggestions on the triangulation for the main hoop and what should I do about the second hoop? If I triangulate it it will kill my bed space.

lol at my photos btw.

mock2.JPG

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Traingulation feedback:

Add a diagonal piece between where your b-pillar hoop attaches to the bed to the upper rear corner of the cage on each side.

Also make sure you have a diagonal (or better yet an "x") across the top of the bed cage.

I also think the horizontal piece behind the cab (through the "x") is overkill. But that's not always a bad thing. :D
 
K heres the pics. I worked to the very end aka the 10pm noise curfew sorta speak.

I didnt get the lights in unfortunately and it seems like I didnt get much done but it came out great. Tomorrow is lights and maybe a rollbar hoop done if I have the weather on my side.

BGKYK5: My ABC pillar lingo isnt very up to date. Any chance you could show me in a pic or on paint?

bedlight1.JPG

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Like this...

mock2.JPG

I am having touble picturing how some of your tubes are going to run, but avoid un-needed bends, they provide a place for the tube to buckle. Straight sided traingles are your best bet for strength.

mock2.JPG
 
Looking good dude, I can't wait till I can get my bed made up out of the metal I got :D

Is that a SB frame, or a blazer frame?
 
Looking good dude, I can't wait till I can get my bed made up out of the metal I got :D

Is that a SB frame, or a blazer frame?

a Shortened SB frame. I chopped it right behind the shackle mount as you can see. Think I took about 4-6in off.
 
Like this...

View attachment 84142

I am having touble picturing how some of your tubes are going to run, but avoid un-needed bends, they provide a place for the tube to buckle. Straight sided traingles are your best bet for strength.


See I cant swing that only cause my toolboxes will be in the way. I could go from above the toolbox across.
 
It looks like you have a horizontal bar right above the tool box. Putting the lower end of the diagonal there should be OK.
 
It looks like you have a horizontal bar right above the tool box. Putting the lower end of the diagonal there should be OK.

Alright I'll be sure to do that then.

Heres what I got done today. Despite there rain I pressed on and got something done. Note to self, dont even attempt body work even if its just damp out... Another note to self, USE ONE SOLD PIECE OF SHEET ACROSS THE BACK NEXT TIME ROUND UGH.

lights1.JPG
 
So I'm browsing the web and I'm starting to have second thoughts about building the roll bars out of box tubing. I'm gonna keep looking at pictures but idk. I might go get a harbor freight bender and get some DOM tomorrow.
 
Looks great so far but I think I agree with you in that square tube for the cage part of the bed will look cheap. Round, Good!
 

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