CK5
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Story of two '72 K5's build

wow, thanks for the link, if i go the rout it is exactly what i am going to need. I might try and keep the doors i have since the rust is only at the bottim and LMC makes a repair panel for the whole bottom of the door, inside and out.
 
Hey guys, I don't mean to hijack this thread but does anyone know if those brass door "shims" that keep the door closed are available to buy?
 
Well i finaly got somw work done today, Here are some pics of the damge.


Think i might need a new radiator support.
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found some tree's in my firewall.
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Passanger side
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Drivers side
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Drivers side door, other side looks pretty much the same
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Passenger side...I didnt bother pulling the drivers side carpet up after seeing this. I got depressed and painted the engine block.
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Now on to some better news...
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I thought it made some great new lawn furniture...my wife did not agree.
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fed-ex guy brought me some Hookers
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Newly painted engine with manifold and new valve covers, and some boxes of parts waiting.
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The username is ScottishDave, but I'm going to call you SuperDave because of the aggressiveness of your project! :saweet:

My free advice, is to "eat the elephant" in small bites... :D Yeah, if you look at all the problem spots at once it's easy to get depressed and spend the rest of the afternoon drinking beer in a bucket seat on the driveway... :haha:

Looks like you have a good opportunity to work from "front to back" on this Blazer since you are already headed that way. With the motor out and the front clip off you can do a nice job cleaning up the framerails all the way to the front cab supports.....wire wheel, degrease and shoot them with a nice Eastwood Chassis Black paint. Get the engine crossmember and front crossmember too. Clean out the nests in the heater system, and maybe put a fine wire mesh across the openings to keep the critters out next time...I've seen a few guys do that.

Clean and paint the firewall before the new engine goes in, then you won't have to worry about disassembling the whole truck again when you finally reach the paint stage. If you can get the firewall and cowl areas into the final color now, it will be simple to just tape them off later.

Looks like you need a new core support, if the inner fenderwells look salvageable, they can get the same Eastwood Chassis Black paint as the frame. By the time you're done up front the entire engine bay and frame section will be DONE, and you can focus on some rust repair in the footwells and rockers....just keep moving systematically toward the back of the truck, but try not to tackle the whole thing all at once. You need some smaller victories along the way to keep your motivation strong.


:usaflag:
 
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Dang, you are really going after this project. I don't have much to add to the great advice already given above, but welcome to the board and I will enjoy watching your progress!

Thanks for your service to our country! :saweet:
 
Hey thanks for the encouragment...Even if i did get down on this project there are to many people subscribed and giving me advice that i wouldnt want to dissapoint.

My "plan" is to get the tub off the frame. Since i lack a welder and any welding skill past high school shop class i plan on taking the whole tub to a body shop ran by a friend to get the metel work done. The easier body work like sanding and painting, etc i will try myself once the tub is done. Especially since that was my reasoning for buying a new aircompressor according to my wife.

With the body at the shop i will start hitting the surface rust on the entire frame and getting it coated. Thanks again Aircompressor. I also have a good buddy with a few years of welding school who is going to box either sections or the whole frame.

With that done i will instal the engine, rebuilt tranny, etc... and figure out what suspension parts i want to order and install that stuff too. I am thinking of doing the disk brake conversion on the 14 bolt and then i will hopefuly throw on the 1-tons once the suspension is figured out.

And then put it all back together. There are alot of little things to figure out along the way like how to lift it and how low can i keep the lift and still run 36-37x12.50's. and many other things. I also plan on trying to do the same fender re-shaping that a few of you have done on here to help with that.

There are the longterm goals and basic plan for you all to see. Any comments, advice and critques that you have please throw them at me as i am sure i need it.

And no problem for the service to country thing. I was born and raised in Scotland (scottishdave) and when i moved to America i figured i would give a little back as the country has afforded me so much. So I joined the Marines, got my citizenship and finaly after 7 years and 4 deployments getting shot at the Marine Corps decided to throw some cash my way for re-enlisting again and thats what is fueling this whole build.
 
Well spent some cash at LMC today...I ended up getting the whole rocker area...they make a complete lower rocker box area, and end pieces to the box, plus inner and outer rocker panels and cab supports, and i went ahead and ordered a radiator core support too and new inner fender tubs and 2 small fender repair panels for the bottom corners of my fenders. Taking a break and staying out of town this weekend so nothing more until monday or tuesday.
 
It may be too late but the inner rockers for the trucks is waaay better than the flat piece of steel they sell for the blazers. It's what I used on this last repair
 
I got the inner rocker panels or are you saying that the inner rocker panels that lmc sells arent that good?

I got the L and R rocker box
2 rocker panel, inners
L and R rocker panels
L and R end cap, rocker box
L and R cab floor supports

I think that should cover the whole rocker area, or does anyone think i missed anything?
 
What LMC calls "inner rockers" are a waste of money. It's just a flat piece of steel with a bend in it tht doesn't match the shape of the truck in that area. There's a similar panel for the trucks but it fits the blazers too. Check out Gregs thread for what it looks like.

I'd also bet money you need new a-pillar supports as those are always gone if the stuff around them is.

Check out this page: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=22

item #5 is the much better inner rocker replacement and #6 is the a-pillar support that's always rusted through.
 
Hey man thanks alot for taking the time to look that up. I actually just bought the rocker panel that gregg72 bought from tri-pro automotive and thier piller support pieces as they were in bad shape.

After reading through greggs build i saw that he bought his from tri-pro and that they included both the inner and outer. Hopefully this will work better, i will see when i get them as i know have pieces from both LMC and Tr-pro so whatever works best i will use, if all else i will have some extra metal to mess with.
 
Ok few question...and to start this IS a factory air truck

The big black plastic box on the firewall that has something to do with the AC system...What exactly is that and most important does it have anything to do with the heating? I do not want to keep AC and if this thing has nothing to do with the heat then i wont put it back on and i will have a nice clean firewall.

Also, The 2 hoses that came out of the firewall in the same location...one went into the radiator and the other went into the intake manifold...what exactly are they for?

I am not even close to having to worry about these in my build but the fact that i am clueless about it has been eating at me all weekend.

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The fan is in that housing so you need that for heat as well as ac. You can replace the housing with a heater only style but it won't be a clean firewall either
 
Vintage Air makes a hidden system that would work. I just read that they now also offer a hidden system with "heat only" in case you don't care about the A/C part.

My feeling is that it would be a more elegant and effective system than the Mohave heaters a lot of guys install, which sounds like nothing more than a large electric heater and blower.


:usaflag:
 
So if i choose to go all aftermarket on the A/C and or Heating system i can scrap that whole box and block those holes?
 

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