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Story of two '72 K5's build

cool build..... as someone who does all work by himself, I can appreciate the git-r-dun approach....


I'm no carpenter, but it might not be a bad idea to add a couple triangulation 2 x 4's to those cradle legs... take 2 minutes...
 
scottishdave said:
Also...Ordered my 35x12.50r15 KM2's today.
Click to expand...



OK, it's official.....now I'm jealous....:bow:

I really want to ching-up for a set of the new KM2s but I'm still a long way away from that step in my build. I'm anxious to see how they look on a 1st Gen, so keep posting pics.


:usaflag:
 
Ryoken: Thanks for the tip, but luckily the body only sat there for a day and then was off to anouther location to be worked on by a guy who actualy knows a thing or two about metal work, body work and welding and chassis/body straightening, etc...Not really a body shop, more like 2 red-neck brothers with a big building on a bunch of land who like restoring old vehicles and will help others out if the project interests them. I will be stoping by there all the time and taking pics for you. I hated to do it, but for someone who never welds or does any body work i dont think that this project was the place to start learning.

Greg72: Dont worry, there are plenty here who are plenty envious of your stuff, especialy when you get those 40" km2's
Not to worry, i am sure you know i will be posting pics of every little step and purchase regardless if yall want them or not.
 
Dave, think Greg is jealous enough to do a straight across vehicle swap? ;) :D

The brake conversion for the 14ff definitely looks like the way to go. This is the original link I found www.shakerbuilt.com/14_bolt.html but I have since found others.
 
Man it does look real easy. The main problem is that the 15" rims i have right now are not 8 lug like the 14ff and if i swaped in the 14b right now i would need an 8 lug wheel for the rear, or swap in the D60 front also and get new rims altogether.

But...I cant buy 4 more rims at the moment without seriously delaying enjoying this truck all summer long. So i will just run the 12 bolt rear with its drums until sometime after summer is long over when i will swap in my 1-tons complete with 4 wheel disks.
 
Pretty much my game plan also. Just gonna collect the parts as I find em and do both axle swaps and the conversion all at once. Can't afford another set of rims ATM either. That will probably be next summer.
 
Yeah i feel ya, as sexy as 1-tons with 4-wheel disk brakes sounds, i have to keep those pesky "WANTS" away from the "NEEDS" Its extra hard when i have a perfectly good D60 and 14ff sitting in the garage.
 
In case you guys didn't realize that 15" wheels don't always fit on 1ton axles. So if you're getting new wheels anyway, 16's fit without grinding the brake calipers. Of course new wheel size = new tires too...
 
Yeah i heard that with disks on the back of a 14b they will work but on D60 fronts you have to grind down the brakes.

I think when i switch over to the 1-tons i will move up to 16" wheels.
 
Most disc brake conversions I'm aware of are based on a 3/4 Ton D44 rotor and caliper, and therefore fit on a 15" wheel with no issues.

Depending on the backspacing used 15" wheels almost always require grinding to fit over the brakes on a D60. Fortunately, if you go to a larger wheel later on you can simply swap out the calipers you've mutilated for a fresh set and be back to "normal".

Lots of guys gring the front calipers with success (and safety) but it just weirds me out to remove material from such a critcal part of the braking system.



:usaflag:
 
When replacing factory gauges to Aftermarket Autometer gauges do you need a special harness or is it a simple and direct swap. Not sure if i will need them yet but its highly likely that i some of the important ones may not work whenever i get this thing back together.
 
It's all custom....

Wiring_up_gauges_2.jpg


6MVC_002F.jpg



Once you decode the wires in the factory plug, you can transfer them to the new gauges. I used a Molex connector (pictured above) so that I could remove the gauge cluster by disconnecting a single large connector.

Nothing is easy, I'm afraid. I have a photo album that shows more of this kind of thing if you need it.



:usaflag:
 
Well lets hope my gauges all work for the time being, well mainly the speed and fuel.
 
Has anyone ever seen this random piece of steel on thier blazers? It does not look factory at all, all i can figure is that someone decided the shackle hanger needed some extra strength and welded this piece of steel on here.

Also the bushing bolts are rediculous. They just DO NOT want to come out. The rivets were not too hard, nothing an air chisel and some hammering couldnt get out.

Here are some pics of what i was talking about. It was welded to the frame right behind the shackle hanger and also to the shackle hanger itslelf.
IMG_0658.jpg


IMG_0660.jpg


Here is the other side(passanger) which i have not touched yet.
IMG_0661.jpg




Now some better pics....

Most of the lift items from ORD.
IMG_0657.jpg


New gas tank, tank mounts, fuel sending unit and box containing new body mounts
IMG_0664.jpg



So starting monday i should not have any more reasons to not post actual build progress and not just teardown or parts recieved posts. I have monday through thursday off and i can get the rear end lifted, gas tank in, and when the transfer case and engine mounts come in i can get that done and whenthe front springs get in i can get that done. Maybe not all my thursday but point is, i should be doing something and if i dont i want to hear about it.
 
Heads up on the tank

Bigbadchev84 told me how he put his tank in and everything was great and then his fuel gauge quit working. After checking everything he found the float had a pinnhole in it and fills with gas and the guage always reads Empty.

Haha.

Exact same thing happened on mine. So, take a really good look at that float.
 
Damn man, thanks for the heads up, you guys used the LMC sending unit? What did you do to fix it? Use the factory one?
 
The brass floats are junk!!!! They are way too thin and the arm smashes the float down causing it to crack and sink.

I used a phenolic float from a newer style sender and rebent the arm to hold the newer style float.
 
well doesnt that suck, anyone used one from an Autoparts store? might be better than the LMC
 
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