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Stubborn 6.2 will not start - help!

mtrdrms

mtrdrms

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 14, 2005
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Location
Torrington, CT
Hey guys I am really stuck here. My dam cucv won't start. Any suggestions are welcome. So far I have:

Replaced fuel
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced glow plugs
Replaced batts

I bled the fuel system at the filter and again at the injectors. I cracked the injectors loose and cranked twice for about 5 seconds. All injector lines were wet but when I put everything back together and cranked it good with new batts, I got nothing. No smoke, no sputter, no nothing - just cranking. I do believe my glow plugs are working. After I replaced them i cycled them a few times and pulled one out to check and it had browned a bit and looked to be getting hot. What else can I do? Do I have a bad injector pump? I am running out of patience and I NEED a truck soon for fire wood.

Andy
 
If you dont mind replacing the glow plugs again... try a little starter fluid to get it to turn over quicker and self prime. I'm currently using brake cleaner to start my truck each morning, as all 8 glow plugs are dead, and I haven't had the time this week to fix it. You can also put a little gas on a rag, lay the rag accross the intake (air filter off, metal screen still on) and have someone crank the truck. It'll try and start, but you better yank that rag off the intake BEFORE it sucks it down and tries to eat it =)
 
Kennyw - it did not start before I did these things - its a GL truck (I know, I know) it was dead when I bought it.

thedrip - I am afraid to use starting fluid. I'll admit it. I did however pour a tiny bit of diesel in the intake and crank it a while but still nothing. And I mean nothing.
 
mtrdrms said:
Kennyw - it did not start before I did these things - its a GL truck (I know, I know) it was dead when I bought it.

thedrip - I am afraid to use starting fluid. I'll admit it. I did however pour a tiny bit of diesel in the intake and crank it a while but still nothing. And I mean nothing.
Click to expand...

Diesel does not give fumes, and it does not get into the chambers if you pour it into the intake.
That only works with starting fluid, gas, etc..
I am having the same thing and I have come to the conclusion I have a bad IP, I have a rebuilt siting here just need the time and patience to put it on.
 
No smoke no fuel !!!!! I suspect IP crack the lines at the IP and see if you get someting . Should be strong if you do .
 
Are these the lines going out of the IP kind of under the intake manifold? I checked the gp's and they are good. I am left to assume the IP or injectors are bad I guess. Any advice here would be much appreciated.
 
Yep the ones under the intake .Or else take the top off the IP an see if there is any fuel in there . If there is then maybe the fuel switch isn't turning on the fuel . Have you checked the switch to make sure it has power ?
 
Well I'm not too good with terms here but I put 12v to the connector that the pink wire attaches to and it clicked when I touched it. Today I am going to pull the cover off and inspect. I found the task in the intermediate TM. If it looks good in there and there is no crud and nothing seems to be stuck does this mean I have a bad IP? Are there any other tests I can perform?

Thanks
 
I thought I'd let everyone in on a totally unexpected side effect of using starter fluid way too often to get your truck running. From the horrible vibrations and knocking it causes as it gets started, I've gone through a set of motor mounts... in about a month. Rad fan is hitting the front crossmember now. I am replacing the leaky box style fuel filter tomorrow and ordering glow plugs, if it doesnt start after that, I don't know what to do!
 
If you think the motor mounts are bad, wait until you see what is happening to the internals of your motor :doah:
 
Finally had a day off work to get things fixed. No more starter fluid. I replaced the stock box style fuel filter with a 5micron diesel filter setup (meant for a fuel transfer tank) from Tractor supply co. It should last a LONG time, since it's designed to filter gross amounts of fuel before replacement.

Truck starts like a freakin champ again. Maybe 1 or 2 of the glowplugs are still alive, even with all that ether.
 
mtrdrms said:
Hey guys I am really stuck here. My dam cucv won't start. Any suggestions are welcome. So far I have:

Replaced fuel
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced glow plugs
Replaced batts

I bled the fuel system at the filter and again at the injectors. I cracked the injectors loose and cranked twice for about 5 seconds. All injector lines were wet but when I put everything back together and cranked it good with new batts, I got nothing. No smoke, no sputter, no nothing - just cranking. I do believe my glow plugs are working. After I replaced them i cycled them a few times and pulled one out to check and it had browned a bit and looked to be getting hot. What else can I do? Do I have a bad injector pump? I am running out of patience and I NEED a truck soon for fire wood.

Andy
Click to expand...

Are you giving it some throttle when you crank it? Try 1/2-full throttle.

Typically a worn IP causes hard starting when hot. That's not always the case of course, but it is typical.
 
I haven't seen it mentioned yet (maybe i missed it?) but cranking speed is crucial for a diesel. My old K5 used to be finicky to get started, even warm I needed to glow the GP's for 5-8 seconds or it'd refuse to start. Cold was a bit of an adventure.

I finally replaced the starter, and boy was I suprised at two things. Number one was how fast it turned over with the new starter, and number two was how easy it was to start all of a sudden. If it had been running even for a few minutes it'd start without the gp's even 15 or 20 minutes later. When cold I only had to plug it in if it got into the 20's...

The intake charge needs to be compressed pretty quickly...the faster it compresses the more super heated that air gets which greatly helps ignition when the injection event occurs.

I really like the 28MT gear reduction starter. It has really good cranking speed and is easier on the batts.

So, how does you cranking speed sound? Unless it sounds like it's really spinning over quickly you might have a starter issue.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I haven't seen it mentioned yet (maybe i missed it?) but cranking speed is crucial for a diesel. My old K5 used to be finicky to get started, even warm I needed to glow the GP's for 5-8 seconds or it'd refuse to start. Cold was a bit of an adventure.

I finally replaced the starter, and boy was I suprised at two things. Number one was how fast it turned over with the new starter, and number two was how easy it was to start all of a sudden. If it had been running even for a few minutes it'd start without the gp's even 15 or 20 minutes later. When cold I only had to plug it in if it got into the 20's...

The intake charge needs to be compressed pretty quickly...the faster it compresses the more super heated that air gets which greatly helps ignition when the injection event occurs.

I really like the 28MT gear reduction starter. It has really good cranking speed and is easier on the batts.

So, how does you cranking speed sound? Unless it sounds like it's really spinning over quickly you might have a starter issue.

Rene
Click to expand...

I don't know about the original Poster, but in my case I have a new 28mt 2 new batteries, rebuilt thick cables and I still have the same symptoms, no smoke, no start.
In my case I am tending to believe the PO messed with the IP and the timing might be off and / or worn.
 
Now thats really interesting. I had a helluva time starting my truck with fully charged batts and could fine no issues with the fuel or glowplug system. Just yesterday my starter died (while trying to get it started for the hundredth time) and now I am wondering if the cranking speed was never up to snuff. I am having the starter rebuilt and the guy said it was really cooked! Maybe the starter was the problem the whole time...
 
imiceman44 said:
I don't know about the original Poster, but in my case I have a new 28mt 2 new batteries, rebuilt thick cables and I still have the same symptoms, no smoke, no start.
In my case I am tending to believe the PO messed with the IP and the timing might be off and / or worn.
Click to expand...


This is my 6.2 starting after putting new GP's in. Sat for a couple days in 35-60f weather. This is the only diesel I've ever owned, but I've been told that it cranks over at a great speed. Yours crank about this speed?

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn10/webphotoalbum/?action=view&current=MVI_4068.flv
 
That turns a little quicker than mine, and I have 2 1rd old batteries (biggest walmart sells), 2ga wiring from the back of the truck direct to the starter, and an 28MT gear reduction starter.

That actually almost sounds like when I first got the truck and was having all KINDS of trouble, got pissed off, disconnected everything except the starter and fuel shutoff, wired 2 batts in series and started it. 24v through 12v starter = primed the fuel system REAL quick
 
thedrip said:
That turns a little quicker than mine, and I have 2 1rd old batteries (biggest walmart sells), 2ga wiring from the back of the truck direct to the starter, and an 28MT gear reduction starter.

That actually almost sounds like when I first got the truck and was having all KINDS of trouble, got pissed off, disconnected everything except the starter and fuel shutoff, wired 2 batts in series and started it. 24v through 12v starter = primed the fuel system REAL quick
Click to expand...

Just because you have a 28MT doesn't mean all is good. They wear out brushes, commutators, bushings, and solenoid contacts just like the non-GR starters.

Still, unless the motor has really low compression you should eventually get something if the GP's are all good. In the motor I just acquired, the non-GR starter is so bad that you have to whack it with a hammer to get it to crank. Then, it still cranks sloooow. But we got the motor (which had been sitting for quite a long time) to light off anyway. Something tells me you have another issue.

Even though there is fuel weeping at the injectors when you crack the lines doesn't mean the pump is working properly. It is possible it isn't creating enough pressure to pop the injector. Here's what I would do, since you don't seem to be having success otherwise. Find the injector with the easiest access and remove it. Then, CAREFULLY bend the injector line a bit so you can reattach it to the removed injector. Put a glass jar under the injector and crank for 5-10 seconds. There should be fuel sprayed in the jar. If you have a buddy crank it you can watch the injector's operation. Do NOT get your hands by the injector nozzle while doing this - the pressure is high enough to give you a hypodermic injection of diesel fuel :eek1:

Half throttle cranking gives about 20-30 cubic mm per stroke IIRC, so a 5-10 second cranking at half throttle should leave a fair bit of fuel sprayed in the jar (probably less than a teaspoon, but more than a faint coating or a few random drops - sorry I cant be more descriptive... it's been a LONG time since I did this :D). If the fuel is there, you probably have a low compression issue. If not, or if it seems to be minimal, then the pump or it's drive is likely to be the culprit. Occasionally the pump gear key shears off, which of course means no fuel. Even more rarely, friction will cause it to slip and turn the pump a bit. The result is not much fuel as well as randomly timed fuel squirts.
 
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