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Sub Boxes?

10's, 12's, whatever. Non custom bandpasses are boomy and generally sound like crap. Custom ones hit HARD at the right frequency, but don't sound that good the rest of the time.

Sounds like power is a big limiting factor to you. Find yourself a decent used amp, and go from there. Do you know the ohm rating of the subs? I have a couple decent used amps that i would sell for 75 shipped each, give me some specs and ill see what might work. I have a kenwood KAC 819 and a Pioneer GM 5300T. The kenwood is a sub amp, 450w max, the pioneer is not a sub amp, but a stereo amp, and is 760 watts max.

We're not supposed to sell stuff on the non classifieds forums, so pay your memebership and PM me, or email me to discuss further.
 
DH, the amp I have right now is a sub dedicated 420W 2ch amp, I have it bridged, and It's still a bit week, with my current financial status yes, my power is limited at this time, although, they have a decent Rockford Fosgate amp for a decent price at the local pawn, I'm going to see if they will trade me with cash down in addition, if they don't I got the set picked out and it will be $350 for the box,m subs and amp, it's just gonna suck getting them broke in a bit before I can rattle windows.

the bandpass, won't take me long to sell, it's (for some reason) a better sold unit to them ricers, but out of 10 ricers how many actually have a nice sounding system?

cdogg, thanks for the warm welcome.

and for further information, I purchased my membership TODAY!!!! :waytogo:

thanks again guys, I may have the bandpass sold with the sub if I really find myself in the position to do that, but for right now, I'm not gonna argue for an "OK" system, I drove for 3 months with a high end kenwood deck and house speakers.......it's a very welcome change, and they sound a hell of a lot better than the blown 10s I was given.
 
w/o knowing the ohm ratings of the amp/subs, its hard to advise, but my guess is you'd be better running that amp in stereo....one channel to each sub.
 
Honestly I don't know myself off hand, was supposed to get a sealed box today, but the guy never called me back.
 
w/o knowing the ohm ratings of the amp/subs, its hard to advise, but my guess is you'd be better running that amp in stereo....one channel to each sub.

Assuming the subs were a common 4-ohm and the amp's bridged RMS was rated at 4-ohm, wiring the subs in parallel and bridging the amp will give about as much output as the system is capable of. This is also assuming the amp is 2-ohm stable.

If you had no other options and the amp really couldn't handle the 2-ohm load then certainly using the amp's 2-channel mode would work but stereo subs are generally frowned upon IME - at least as far as car audio is concerned.
 
Assuming the subs were a common 4-ohm and the amp's bridged RMS was rated at 4-ohm wiring the subs in parallel and bridging the amp will give about as much output as the system is capable of. This is also assuming the amp is 2-ohm stable.

If you had no other options and the amp really couldn't handle the 2-ohm load then certainly using the amp's 2-channel mode would work but stereo subs are generally frowned upon IME - at least as far as car audio is concerned.

Based on the lack of knowledge on the 2 subs, i was afraid of bridging 2 subs that might be 2 ohms, putting a 1 ohm load on the amp. 2 4 ohm subs bridged on the amp would be the way to go, agreed.
 
Based on the lack of knowledge on the 2 subs, i was afraid of bridging 2 subs that might be 2 ohms, putting a 1 ohm load on the amp. 2 4 ohm subs bridged on the amp would be the way to go, agreed.

For sure, the recommendation is contingent on a lot of assumptions.:crazy:

1-ohm loads can do some funny things.:D
 
Welcome to the brotherhood.on the subject of waiting to rattle the windows well I have 2 memphis mojo 10's and a mojo 12 and well they have 600 watts a piece going to the 10's and 900 going to the 12 and well I didn't let anything break in only my wallet was broke.but you can crank a subwoofer straight out of the box
 

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