The later Burb squares also offered the 14FF even after the 14SF came on the scene in 81.3/4 tons went to the semi floater in the early or mid 80's. The earlier trucks got a 14ff with the correct spring spacing.
For same chassis, we all know the bigger engines consume more fuel than the smaller ones. Except while towing, where the big cubic inches sometimes beat the small blocks for MPG. As we all know, the BBC gets consistent mileage regardless of conditions, while SBC sees a lot of range of MPG between empty/towing/etc.I don't think an 8.1 burb gas mileage is much worse than say 6.0 or 5.3 in a like chassis.
I know mine get 1/2 again better than my 77 sbc k20.
A larger rear axle has little impact on MPG - basically the same as any other weight gain. Gear ratio has an impact, of course. Feel free to post actual data that contradicts if you can find some.Rear end Gear ratio's are very relevant for towing.... Brakes are an issue.....
?? 14 bolt full Floating rear end ??? Wow, gas will be consumed harshly for a commuter ride...
What is the GVW of the suburban your looking at? It may have the bigger rear end, if it had a tow package...
Springs are relatively cheap.... a 9'5" rear end would be the better choice for fuel consumption.
If its priced right & the tin is in good condition etc....go with it & change a rear diff if needed.
Please post math.I have a 14b FF in a K30 mason dump truck. Easy math 10 mpg.
14 bolt factory ratios: 3.23:1 to 5.38:1
If you find anything you want a closer look at near Seattle, I can probably take a look for you.Road trip time!!
When I recover financially from moving Mom in I'm going to find a nice burb.
Thats cheaper than fixing mine.
I have owned and driven:Looking at picking up a suburban to use as a driver and occasional tow rig butwanted to get some advice from people on here who have used them.
I occasionally buy a car and use a uhaul transport (last tow was 90 gmc jimmy) but I also have a camping trailer 21.5 feet and 3000lbs. I’m torn between if a 1/2 would be okay or I need to step up to a 3/4. I live in Texas so flat but tend to travel to the east coast like Virginia and North Carolina as I have family there.
I found a 89 350 with a tow package and 3.42 gears. Also looking at a 85 454 3/4 ton but it’s double the price. It would see rotation as a driver but maybe tow 10-12 times a year so I’m wondering would the 1/2 get by fine and be a comfy ride or should I plan on just go 3/4 to be safe. My biggest concern is so have a 94 f250 460 currently and it has factory heavy duty suspension so the ride sucks. Looking to pick something up then sell it as I hate the ride
I get a 90s would make more sense just too new in my mindAre you set on square-body? Any interest in a later 90's 6.5TD 2500? For a ready-to-tow comfy Suburban, a factory 8.1L rig from the 2000's is hard to beat.
The caliper is the same but the disc is bigger, so more leverage to slow down the truck.Still trying to sell my early bronco to get the funds for the suburban. But hopefully soon. Have a few interested people but no one showing up with cash. Was hoping to sell it then my f250 (hood axle hailer) but have a friend who might want my f250 soon.
I get a 90s 454 suburban makes more sense but I just think they feel too new. I would prefer a 78 suburban but feel the 85-91 are new enough yet have a old feel. My daily driver alternates between a 78 bronco and 90 jimmy. The jimmy has been in my fleet for maybe 6 months and really enjoying it so though a similar suburban would be great over the rough f250. Also have a 68 mustang and 76 corvette, you can see my mpg is not crazy essential. Also I work from home so no commuter of 30-50 miles a day is needed. More like 10-20 max for dinner or groceries. Also if I need to save gas I have a Harley backup haha.
Still looking at the 91 gmc but also found a 85 Chevy that is the burb version of my 90 gmc jimmy. It’s still 1/2 ton but I would plan on 14 bolt rear and a Dana 44 front with 8 lug, wilwood front brakes, and either 3.73 or 4.10 gears. The 1/2 and 3/4 use the same wilwood caliper so I cannot see that much brake difference so just axles and save up for a 4l80 swap or beefed up 700r4. Then maybe a 383 with a proflow for a solid puller
Good to know! If i cannot fina 3/4 ton I will be on the hunt for a 3/4 dana 44 and 14sf. Maybe add some helper bags.The caliper is the same but the disc is bigger, so more leverage to slow down the truck.
As for upgrading a 1/2 ton, I put 8lug front d44 and a 14 bolt full floater on my 89 1/2 ton suburban and put 3/4 ton springs and I am putting an 8.1 with an NV4500 in it.
Not much left of the original but I can't find the combination I want so I am building it
The axles are the same, just the outer are different.Good to know! If i cannot fina 3/4 ton I will be on the hunt for a 3/4 dana 44 and 14sf. Maybe add some helper bags.
Unless he gets a matching set with deeper gearsThe axles are the same, just the outer are different.
Change the hubs & rotors and mounting brackets over to 8 lug and your good.