Looking at building a suburban on a M1028 1 ton chassis what problems am I looking at? I know the wheelbase is 2" longer on the 1 ton, that should not be a big problem. What say the masses?
CK5
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The frame kickup is the biggest problem IIRC. It stays flatter longer under burbs and crew cabs.
A body lift should cure alot of it.
If the body is off just cut all the body mounts off and raise em up
A body lift should cure alot of it.
If the body is off just cut all the body mounts off and raise em up
Yeah taking the M1028 apart so I will have a rolling chassis with a 6.2, 400, 205, D60, 14Bff, and truck bumper. I can also do any frame and chassis mods like the steering box reinforcement and fuel tank mods without the body in the way.
This seems like a very good idea. Please post pictures if you do it!
This.
So nobody has any reason not to do it?
The body mount situation seems like the biggest hangup. But the idea of using a small body lift on the front half seems like it might take care of the problem. The very rear of the frames are different (burbs angle down at the rear a little) but that shouldn't cause any major issue.
I think it would be a cool build. The ultimate Suburban IMHO.
Thanks I probably was going to be using at least 1" pucks and might can move the body mounts on the frame to limit how many of them I have to use. I might air bag the rear with a four link so I may use a M1008 frame instead of the M1028, for those who don't know the difference between them they are both 1 ton truck frames but the 1028 has over load spring pads and springs and if I am not going to be using them, why waste them. So looks like this will be the setup, 4.56:1 D60 w/LS, 14BFF W/Detroit, 4l80E, 208 SYE, 24 bolt humvee wheels and tires, crossover steering, 6.2l diesel, 4" front lift springs, 4 link air bag rear, hidden winch in front behind custom bumper with CUCV shackle mounts, custom rear bumper with 2" receiver and CUCV shackle mounts. Will setup suburban body with all the military mods like 24v NATO plug, military radio and pioneer rack from humvee, and anything else that I have laying around.
I'd consider cutting down a crewcab frame so you have the long and low belly section to start with. I'd also worry that you're going to get into enough fab work modifying a K30 frame that it could make sense to beef up the 'burb frame. Especially if you have a 3/4T burb frame to start with. There's nothing really magical about the K30 frame compared to a 3/4T sub frame. The material may be some fraction thicker on the 1-ton but the big difference would just be the depth of the belly section being 2" deeper on the K30 and I'd add 2" of square tube to the bottom of the burb frame in a minute since that would also make it easy to do some nice belly pan/crossmember work too. You'll gain more frame stiffness with extra crossmembers and beefing up the crossmembers that are there too.
And as always, a 1/2T frame with a good roll cage tied to it will be stronger than anything else you could do. It can get very involved but works best.
And as always, a 1/2T frame with a good roll cage tied to it will be stronger than anything else you could do. It can get very involved but works best.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
IMO Steven is right. The 1 ton frame sucks just as bad as the rest of them.
You could fab a frame out of 2x6x3/16 box that would be twice a strong. Maybe even toss in some 2x8x3/16 in the belly for the 1 ton look.
You could fab a frame out of 2x6x3/16 box that would be twice a strong. Maybe even toss in some 2x8x3/16 in the belly for the 1 ton look.
Okay you guy's caught me I was looking for a easier way to get the one ton heavy duty gear in.
1 ton axles in is easy .
front bolts in .
rear cut/weld perches and shock mounts and bolt in .
way faster than custom frame swap .
front bolts in .
rear cut/weld perches and shock mounts and bolt in .
way faster than custom frame swap .
Yeah but I will get the whole drivetrain with the swap 6.2L, 400, 208, and tons even driveshaft. I love you guys bombing holes in my idea, that is why I asked. And they are good big holes, but I am going to have to dig a little more. Thanks for keeping me grounded.1 ton axles in is easy .
front bolts in .
rear cut/weld perches and shock mounts and bolt in .
way faster than custom frame swap .
In my opinion the biggest advantage to a K30 frame would be the added depth of the frame rails in the middle of the truck. You can clock the transfer case and get a flat belly across the frame rails. My skid plate is 2" below the frame, if I had a K30 frame, I'd run a single piece of 3/8" plate across the bottom of the frame rails and mount my drivetrain to it.
The flat long length of the crew cab frame is ideal IMO.
The crew cab may be a better option but I don't have one laying around like I do CUCV's. Also the sub is a half ton.
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
Sounds like a great idea.
CUCV wheelbase is 3" longer then the burb
The frame kickup is gonna be right in the middle of the backseat footwell , and would need a 3-4" body lift and/or cutting the floor out.
You would need to swap in the burb fuel tank on the CUCV frame
The frame behind axle length is much shorter on the CUCV the last body mount on the burb might not have anywhere to attach
@MNorby swapped a crewcab on a single cab pickup frame , and it was quite a bit of work . Granted his was a shortbed frame but the frame kicks up in the same spot . The Burb body would be even more of a hassle in my opinion.
The frame kickup is gonna be right in the middle of the backseat footwell , and would need a 3-4" body lift and/or cutting the floor out.
You would need to swap in the burb fuel tank on the CUCV frame
The frame behind axle length is much shorter on the CUCV the last body mount on the burb might not have anywhere to attach
@MNorby swapped a crewcab on a single cab pickup frame , and it was quite a bit of work . Granted his was a shortbed frame but the frame kicks up in the same spot . The Burb body would be even more of a hassle in my opinion.
I only get 2"difference between the suburban and the k30. And if I have to move the body mounts on the frame to change the height I figured I might split the difference and get a little more clearance at the firewall fender area.
