CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

SUBURBICON, Urban Escape Vehicle.

:thinking:

All I see is black X's :dunno: Maybe I'm the only one.... Dunno
 
I can see em now:dunno:

looks great..:D
 
I always liked the single headlight grills better then the dual's! Looks great I dig the color too (same as my crew). Are you running stock 52's with the 40's?
 
Thanks for the complements, ya I don't have any plans to narrow it but once I get the interior out I plan to start cutting.
Yes they are stock 52s and the color is the same as my cc Dmax.
 
.
Got a lot of great ideas at the expo that I would love to try, picked up some pats but the best was the great deal that I got on these diff covers from RuffStuff, they are 3/8" thick and very well built.
.
008-1.jpg

.
 
.
The old brackets are out and the new ones are in along with the FF14 bolt with locker/
.
002-2.jpg

.
Looks much better now with the lift, it now sits 8" higher than a stock 2wd.
.
001.jpg

.



Quick question: how hard was it to knock out the rivets holding your brackets on? I'm getting ready to move my rear shackles forward 4" so I can use the lift springs I ordered, (long story), and the rivets are what's worrying me the most.
 
Sorry to high jack, but why not send the springs back and get the right ones? A set of 56" springs is going to be better than a set of 52" springs.

Martin
 
Sorry to high jack, but why not send the springs back and get the right ones? A set of 56" springs is going to be better than a set of 52" springs.

Martin

I was going to do that, but it would tie up $365 for 4-5 weeks until everything went through and the money got refunded, and with 2 kids, 1 in daycare and 1 in kindergarten, I can't tie up that much for that long. And I'm not wild about the fact that I've got 5" blocks under the rear and it still has saggy ass. If the 52's are too rough and it rides like poo, come springtime, I'll go to plan C.....whatever that may be...lol. :D
 
It realy depends on what experience you have, I would start by removing the fuel tank, the spare tire tube and then cut the heads off the rivits and punch them through, the other holes should be there for the 52" springs, if itwas me and I was going to go through that much work I would send back the 52s and get a flip kit from diy4x and use yourstock 56" springs.
 
This weekend I was able to take out the interior and start measuring and marking.
005.jpg

cut the bottom of the rear flat, I'm looking at staring with 13" for now, it should be about 1" shorter overhand than a blazer, I can go as much as 16".
003-2.jpg

I was also able to install the new bushings and 1" body lift from ORD.
004.jpg
 
The stuff behind the fuel filler is a pain in the butt also, just cutting it out was a pain in the butt.

You forgot about the brace inside the fender on the driver side but thanks for the heads up, I plan to cut open the inside above the window to weld it up and im going to try and cut around the fuel filler, this thing is just like a twinkie, it's not really square in the rear.
 
Top Bottom