Swaps done, but do the tires seem straight?

[NEK5]

They are talking about checking toe-in. So if you were looking down from above your truck the tires would look like this \------/, only not that exagerated. I don't know what the spec's are for your axle, but you want the fronts pointed in a little.

I've checked this by putting a piece of tape on the front of each tire and drawing a cross with a marker on each piece. With the front axle on jackstands, measure to the center of the hubs. Now go back to your pieces of tape and put the horizontal of the cross at the same height as the center of the hubs. Now measure the distance between the vertical lines between the two tires.

Now rotate the tires to put the tape on the back of the tires. Measure the same center of hub height to the horizontal line. Now check the distance between the vertical lines again. The distance at the back of the tires should be larger. Not by much IIRC, like around 1/4".

This isn't the technically correct method of checking toe-in, but it'll give a good idea about if it's correct or even close. I've actually set mine this way and it seems to work just fine, but like I said it's not the most ideal method but it's the easiest IMO.

In order to get the steering wheel straight again, just adjust the length of your draglink. It's that simple. Most likely it's off because of additional suspension lift and you need to adjust the draglink anyways.

I think I have the draglink and toe adjustments figured out, well, at least how to do them. But I`m concerned about my camber. My buddy who was driving behind me said it seemed like the top of both of my front tires were "cocked out", the passenger side, more than the driversside. Not really noticebale at a stand still, more so when driving...

 

[mrk5]

I replaced the balljoints in my D44 several years ago. On top there's an inner threaded piece that the balljoint presses into when you torque down the nuts. It's what you need the special spanner socket for. IIRC the hole for the balljoint is offcenter. Or there's one available that's offcenter.

I don't know, I may be talking out my ass but I thought maybe it might give you a place to start searching.

 

[bp71k5]

Yea, it looks like you fired first though.

 

[NEK5]

In re-reading the thread maybe it's the top and bottom of the tires you're concerned about being pointed in/out. Not the front and back like I was talking about. Not sure how to check that or adjust it for that matter.

Unfortunately you never know how competent the PO might have been. You could always check to make sure the balljoint nuts are all tight.

Does it track well driving down the street. If things were very far off, you'd know. The only other thing is to watch tire wear.

It tracks fine down the street, straighter than an arrow. Just the wheel is offcenter, so I need to adjust the draglink. Other than that, everything seems fine...

 

[mrk5]

You know you could also check the wheel bearings. They could be worn or I'm thinking the spindle nuts could be loose. You could jack the front up and see if there's a lot of slop if you grab the tire and see if there's any play. Might be safe to just tear it down and recheck the bearing preload/endplay.

 

[NEK5]

You know you could also check the wheel bearings. They could be worn or I'm thinking the spindle nuts could be loose. You could jack the front up and see if there's a lot of slop if you grab the tire and see if there's any play. Might be safe to just tear it down and recheck the bearing preload/endplay.

I do have a set of 8 lug hubs in the basement I could rebuild, ie new bearings/races/seals. Will the spindles off my 6 lug set up be the same?

 

[mrk5]

Yes if they are both 10blt.

 

[NEK5]

Yes if they are both 10blt.

cool. Well, I guess if I have any issues, I have a set of spindles with some practically new Moogs, and I can put new bearings/seals/races in the hubs.