mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
Ask and he shall recieve! Guess I shoulda came up and said hi at KOH. Did I miss something or is the info on this stuff not posted elsewhere?
CK5
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T-case & Doubler comparison thread...
- Thread starter TheBeast_88K5
- Start date
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Oh it's elsewhere....
But it's scattered about.
I don't have the time to search all over the boards.
I have a lot of stuff goin on right now.
Normally I do the research myself....
But, with all you experienced doubler owner's, out there...
Why not ask...?
Thanks again, guy's!
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
That was more directed to stephen about their new 241/205 stuff and the magnum box
I dont see this magnum box on the ord website... How much is it?
Details should come very soon
Bada$$ it looks killer.
TDAWG1
1/2 ton status
Stephen... Sorry if I jumped the Gun on this. I just saw all this Doubler talk and got all excited and well Folk had to know....so much to regurgitate here, and I need to call it for the night.
clif notes:
you can't really compare pricing for any of this stuff to an atlas when what you end up with has the strength of a 205 and multiple gear ratios. Having 2 or more different low ranges really does make a difference.
We have the "241 stock rotation to fig8 205 2 inch up rotation" kits are ready to ship right now. Other versions are drawn and design work is finished, it's a matter of getting it all in production. Rotations options are pre-set since the bolt patterns all have to mesh.
any underdrive system using a 32 spline intermediate shaft is not what I would consider a true 4 speed in anything big since the intermediate shaft is always a weak link when the front box is in low and the rear is in high. Not everyone will break it but everyone should know about it.
The Magnum box fixes this problem and gives you a true 4 speed since the shaft between the underdrive gearset and the 205 is now big enough to support the underdrive's torque output. It's also 6.25" long, all new parts, user indexable, 33#, and generally pisses excellence.
behind a TH350:
pic of the "Chop Box" display from EJS:
Details should come very soon
Subscribed! I'm getting ready for my doubler build and I think I might need a Magnum for my monster.
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Great info Guys. Awesome thread.
Subscribed! I'm getting ready for my doubler build and I think I might need a Magnum for my monster.
That's funny, we need a Magnum in everything here too.
Except the cheap truck is getting a Chop Box. I'm really excited for the Ultra4 car, losing 65+ pounds, about 3 inches and dropping some drag will be a nice improvement. And it might be nice having the 2.72 gear, it might work out to be a good fast crawl gear.
That's funny, we need a Magnum in everything here too.
Except the cheap truck is getting a Chop Box. I'm really excited for the Ultra4 car, losing 65+ pounds, about 3 inches and dropping some drag will be a nice improvement. And it might be nice having the 2.72 gear, it might work out to be a good fast crawl gear.
Any Idea on when you'll figure the cost on the Magnum?
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
very nice.i wish i had a need for one so i could be one of the cool kids too.lol.maybe in the future.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
I'm looking for a simple thread, or link, to the differences in doubler combos.
Is there such a thread?
There have been some epic threads about this over the past 10 years I've been on this site, probably the best search keywords are:
"crawl ratio"
"ideal gearing"
etc.
(Check the CoG forum too)
I am a firm believer that you need to start with the big picture and work backwards to the transfercase....
If you build a "trail only" rig, then it doesn't matter how impractical the gearing is for anything besides trail riding. However, for a dual-purpose truck the gearing can completely ruin the driveability of the truck on the street.
I always start with a target highway MPH that I'd like to be able to cruise at.... then, based on the transmission (OD vs. non-OD) you can pick an axle gear that will give you the appropriate cruising RPMs to maximize mileage (HA!) and keep you from spinning your engine to the moon just to go 65MPH.... that gets old in a hurry, and you'll go bankrupt trying to keep fuel in the tank.
Based on your tire size, and your particular style you will want to pick a reduction box setup that gets you somewhere in the neighborhood of "1-inch of ground travel / 1 RPM of engine".... you can search a bit more for how this works, but basically you'd like a crawl ratio that is closely matched to your tire circumference...... a 119" circumference tire (38" diameter) would do well with approximately 119:1 overall reduction. For slower, technical crawling you might want more crawl ratio....for faster, looser ground a little more wheelspeed would help (lower CR).
The point though, is that you really need to look at the whole picture (tire diameter, rear axle gearing AND transfercase gearing) to build something that will work everywhere you need it to... IMHO, the deepest gearing belongs in the transfercase, not in the axles.
-G
Maybe I think wrong but I am planning on keeping my 4.11s and just add more gearing with the transfercase. 4.11s and 39s go right down the road and with low gear in the 4 speed still work fine. Then I can just keep pulling levers till it is slow enough.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
^That's the super-condensed version of what Greg just said...
"The gearing belongs in the t-case", particularly.
I know that I'm gearing the buggy OUT.
We do dirt/rock wheeling, locally.
But, my obsession is the sand.
The buggy has to go fast, suck up the whoops,
and be geared low enough (In the axles) to blast up Comp Hill.
Having enough crawl, in the box, would be nice too!
But, in all honesty, I just don't want those diesel's showing me up, up the mountain....
I REFUSE to not make it in a buggy, when Diesels can do it!
ion
1/2 ton status
This is either going to sound weird or freaking retarded,
But can you make instead of a 203/205 doubler a 205/205 doubler?
But can you make instead of a 203/205 doubler a 205/205 doubler?
The 203/205 is just soooooo easy. being that you unbolt the back of the 203 no mods to the case are needed. Thats why its so popular, besides that anyone with a th 350 can find a 203 for CHEAP, also easy and cheap to adapt the 203 to a 700
The 203 reduction section makes a 205 reduction look small and weak.
I don't need lower gears for what I do and my current tire size, but I will go to a 241/205 due to some happy happy circumstances that will be reveled to the masses at a later date. Its nice it will save some weight.
I have 4.56s in my axle gears and run the 205 in low in sand and mud and most trail riding. Its perfect IMHO, sometimes in the sand I wish my motor would rev past 4500 rpm ( stupid stock HEI) but what rig can't use more power in the sand. Muds the same thing.
Reduction belongs in the t-cases. Axle gears should be looked at totally differently.
