CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

TBI pulse problems

well that was quick, dead again, acting the exact same way again, just shuts down, no warning, nothing. Haven't checked yet if it's the injectors again, but suspecting the same deal.

$500 for this Suburban right now


I still think it's the ECM.:popcorn:
Send me a PM with an address, I'll send you a good ECM. Call it an early Christmas Gift.

dave w
 
well that was quick, dead again, acting the exact same way again, just shuts down, no warning, nothing. Haven't checked yet if it's the injectors again, but suspecting the same deal.

$500 for this Suburban right now

If it shut down like someone reached over and turned the key off it is most likely to be a spark problem which leads me to the "other half" of the ignition system within the distributor, a bad pick-up coil (don't confuse this with the ignition coil). It is another part that does fail but not nearly as often as the ignition module. I don't know if the pick-up coil affects injector signal though so I would make sure if you have spark or not. If it turns out to be a bad pick-up coil the distributor has to come out and taken ALL the way apart to change the piece.

I HIGHLY DOUBT it is an ECM problem but since Dave has offered to give you another known good one it sure wouldn't hurt to try it especially if money is tight right now.
 
Yeah, i've had to replace that little coil in the distributor before, not real fun.

I haven't determined what is not working now though, as it's only 19 degrees out, with snow on the ground and it won't fit in the garage.. More annoyed at this than anything.

But yes, identical to before, i went out to start it, to let it run for a bit to warm up, i came in to get things ready and when i went back out it was off, i restarted it, it ran for a minute, then shut off like you'd hit the key off, i tried to restart it and no fire, just cranks.

It's what it did before when if finally wouldn't start anymore, it would refire a couple of times or short distances or time, then die out.
 
Just went out and checked, it fires up with a couple of shots of ether, acted like it was going to keep running, cause it ran longer than it should have with the amount i shot in it, but then it just died. hit it again with ether, fired right up, ran for a few seconds, then just shuts off. No spitting, sputtering, just off.

I dunno, guess i'm gonna have to dig out the fuel pressure kit again too just to rule that in or out as well, that should be fun :doah:
 
I do have one more ignition control module here i could try, i'm alittle leary about doing that though, because if it's something else burning these things out, that is the last one i have for it..
 
Ok, there is a fuel problem that has been popping up here recently and it is from a short piece of fuel line INSIDE the fuel tank that connects the pick-up to the pump. This hose sometimes will split and then intermittantly sucks air and the engine will die. That hose is SPECIAL SUBMERSIBLE fuel hose. DO NOT use standard fuel hose for this or you will have issues pretty quick again (assuming this is even your problem).

EDIT: I just did a search and realized that YOU are one of the people that had this issue. It could still be your issue if the hose you replaced was not SUBMERSIBLE fuel hose or if the hose came loose because the clamp wasn't tight enough.
 
Ok, there is a fuel problem that has been popping up here recently and it is from a short piece of fuel line INSIDE the fuel tank that connects the pick-up to the pump. This hose sometimes will split and then intermittantly sucks air and the engine will die. That hose is SPECIAL SUBMERSIBLE fuel hose. DO NOT use standard fuel hose for this or you will have issues pretty quick again (assuming this is even your problem).

EDIT: I just did a search and realized that YOU are one of the people that had this issue. It could still be your issue if the hose you replaced was not SUBMERSIBLE fuel hose or if the hose came loose because the clamp wasn't tight enough.

you mean this one?? :D

i think i was the one that brought this up a couple months ago, that's why i would think it SHOULDN'T be the pump, as i JUST replaced it because of this.

2010-11-21 13.14.12.jpg

2010-11-21 13.14.20.jpg
 
Yep, I made an edit in my post above. At any rate, I know it sucks but I think dropping the tank and taking a peak is in order here. You could always check fuel pressure first though but that isn't going to happen unless you can get it to start again.
 
BTW, that one i just replaced lasted about a year until it did that, so i highly doubt that SHOULD be the issue. The replacement unit was purchased through Napa, as one of the OEM replacements, Delphi unit.
 
Yep, I made an edit in my post above. At any rate, I know it sucks but I think dropping the tank and taking a peak is in order here. You could always check fuel pressure first though but that isn't going to happen unless you can get it to start again.

I could prolly get it to start and run long enough to get a reading on the gauge, it doesn't take much or long to get that. Like i said, gonna have to check it anyways, just to rule this in or out as an issue.
 
You know that it is HARD to buy a quality part anymore, I wouldn't doubt anything until you know for sure. You could be searching forever and it could easily be your problem and dropping the tank will tell you right away (if it's the hose again). You could always deadhead the pump and check the pressure also. A TBI pump has a max pressure of about 15 lbs.
 
Yeah, i know about the buying quality parts anymore.I just went out to the garage and looked at the box the new pump came in,, it's a Delphi unit, made ifn Mexico :doah::rolleyes:

ah well, i'll get back on here after i check the pressure on that thing.

It's warming up outside now, about 25*, so maybe i'll go do it while it's warm ???
 
OK, here's what i've got, after freezing my hands off, i got the pressure gauge installed, hit it with ether, got a reading of about 13psi.

Had someone come out and hit the key after i hit it with ether again, it fired right up, and the injectors started spraying as well, ran alittle longer this time, then just all of the sudden it shut off, like she hit the key. Did this a couple of times, runs, then dies.

Now i can't even get it to fire up with the ether, it'll cough alittle but won't take, and the injectors are not hitting either.

When she hits the key, i can see the fuel pressure gauge move up for a second, then back down to zero, during this time i can hear the fuel pump relay click when the key is turned on, and it clicks again then the pressure retuerns to zero, but the key is still on.

So far, that's all i have, my feet are froze, i had to come in twice and warm up my hands, i dunno about this cold climate crap :frown1:
 
From the sounds of it it is a spark issue then. Now you need to pull a plug wire and check for spark. If it has none you've pretty much found the problem (pick-up coil or ignition module but doubtful you have 2 bad modules so pick-up coil).
 
well, sheot, i just went back out there, hit it with a couple more shots of ether, it fired right up, and stayed running all the way till the idle came down and started heating up. Then out of the blue i hear a mis, sputter, whatever, sounds like a cylinder didn't fire.

I wait a few more minutes, it does this a few more times, i'm watching the fuel pressure gauge, nothing going on there, then it just shuts off.

While it was running i was moving and checking wires from the coil, injectors whatever i thought would have some sort of power problem if they were somehow damaged internally. nothing.

When id died on it's own, i turned the key and it fired right back up on it's own, no ether, stayed running for a few seconds and shut off again.


i'm really just getting tired of dealing with this old truck, seriously considering retiring it and parting it out.
 
Have you checked for any codes yet? Now it's beginning to sound like some sort of tune-up problem or some other issue like possibly a IAC motor problem. I can't recall if you said you already checked/replaced the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) but that could be causing problems if it is bad.
 
uh huh,, no codes, i can't get them out of the dash light, i mentioned this the first go around with this issue, even tried to post a video of what it does.

With the little code key inserted, turn the key on, the SES light will flash a few times, i can usually get the code 12 3 times like it's supposed to do, but then when it starts to try to give me any other fault codes, the light will start flashing and just start dimming out to where you can see it anymore. I have never seen an SES light do this before.

Only reason i haven't thought maybe a computer problem with the way it's running, or not running now, is because it has done this for a couple of years, the SES light thing. So i installed this new motor with that computer, drover it 2000 miles across country with it, and here since April with it, and it's has been running fine and great with it through this time.

Unless something else in there decided to quit working right.

although now that i think about it, SOMETHING was setting off the SES, i thought it was most likely due to the fact i have headers on now, and thought the o2 sensor was possibly located too far down, the ses light would only come on after i let off the throttle from a cruising speed. no other time.
 
Why not take it to autozone or the like and have them use their code reader on it at least to see if IT will give you any codes rather than jumpering the A/B terminal to read codes through the SES light?
 
I don't think Autozone has anything that reads OBD1, they always just hand me the little two prong code retrieval key... last i knew they didn't anyways.. Besides now, i wouldn't trust it to drive down the neighborhood street as it is. :p:
 
Top Bottom