What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Th350 removal

diesel4me said:
Speedo cable (if he has one,I think he said he didn't--but in case anyone else reads this to find out the procedure it should be listed)..

After I had to replace the trans cooler lines and had it be such a pain to get at the fittings on the transmission,I decided to only use a short length of tubing (ready made ones with the line nuts & already flared) at the transmission,then used 5/16" couplings or compression fittings to join them to the longer tubes running to the radiator--that way if the transmission ever needs to come out,the cooler lines can be unscrewed at that junction next to the bell housing without any hassle..Also,the fittings in the transmission that accept the flared lines have a special straight thread in some cases too--don't try using ones with 1/4" npt pipe threads,they will crack the case!..
Don't ask how I know that..:doah:
Click to expand...

Im just going to spend the $ and get braided lines with the right angle connector at the tranny.
 
At what point does the engine need support? Can I remove torque converter bolts, bell housing? My sawsall broke so Im waiting for new one to cut the wood I bought.
 
Tq converter bolts for sure and I’d have no problem removing most of the bellhousing bolts. Depending on your dowels, it probably won’t move with everything removed.
 
I'd remove the distributor cap anyways--the engine may still tilt back enough to let it hit the firewall when you'll have to lower the engine down in the rear to get the bell housing to clear and make getting at the bell bolts easier...a second floor jack is better that just blocking up the engine,as it may need to be lowered some..
 
diesel4me said:
I'd remove the distributor cap anyways--the engine may still tilt back enough to let it hit the firewall when you'll have to lower the engine down in the rear to get the bell housing to clear and make getting at the bell bolts easier...a second floor jack is better that just blocking up the engine,as it may need to be lowered some..
Click to expand...

I have the tranny hump removed...
 
That kickdown would not disengage, so I cut it, same for cooler lines.

Ok, so, engine support after torque converter bolts removed or while I do them? I have one removed so far but I wasnt sure when to support the engine.

All thats left is bellhousing bolts and two torque converter bolts.
 
I like to give the motor and transmission a chance to wiggle apart, so I don’t put pressure with a jack on the motor until after they start to separate if needed at all. Sometimes the motor and trans can be put in a bind when you start to lift the motor or trans.

Support the trans with your trans jack and take em loose. Sometimes have to give it the business to get them to separate. Sometimes they just fall apart.
 
Secondly, how in the hell do you get the dipstick hold down bolt? I can just make it out above that tube that has all the starter wires.

Is there a trick or should I just cut it and get a new one?
I not opposed to cutting it. My patience is running thin and if it’s easier/quicker to cut the dipstick tube than spending 40min trying wiggle extensions to unscrew it, I will cut it.
 
Last edited:
TJ1978 said:
Secondly, how in the hell do you get the dipstick hold down bolt? I can just make it out above that tube that has all the starter wires.

Is there a trick or should I just cut it and get a new one?
I not opposed to cutting it. My patience is running thin and if it’s easier/quicker to cut the dipstick tube than spending 40min trying wiggle extensions to unscrew it, I will cut it.
Click to expand...

It's funny, because i'm removing a TH-350 right now and just took the dipstick tube bellhousing bolt out (see my unfortunate thread concerning TH-350 slipping elsewhere in the garage section.....)

i used a 20" extension and U-joint socket, but you CAN get to it from up top with a 9/16" box wrench at least on 2WD. You're 4WD?
Just have to be patient. It's ok to cuss, but watch it around the kids....
With the u-joint you may want to use some duct tape to keep it in position.

i suppose you could cut it if you're in a hurry, but then you have to find another one.
 
The green one is the one I just pulled. It has the flange for the front drive shaft and what appears a shorter spline input.

I really want to use the non Green tcase. It is in better shap, if previous owner is to be believed.

I can swap the front drive shaft (u joint to flange) adapter. But will that input spline be an issue when mating to the th350, being what appears different than the green one?

71016DAA-7F74-4C86-8E80-E6BC635CBEE6.jpeg

89185D25-2032-474C-AF27-4E7ADBEBA1C8.jpeg

D210B3F7-BE26-48FB-AD60-EF323394F47F.jpeg

65845D0A-F18A-4FE6-99C8-9ADC6EA92EDB.jpeg
 
TJ1978 said:
The green one is the one I just pulled. It has the flange for the front drive shaft and what appears a shorter spline input.

I really want to use the non Green tcase. It is in better shap, if previous owner is to be believed.

I can swap the front drive shaft (u joint to flange) adapter. But will that input spline be an issue when mating to the th350, being what appears different than the green one?

View attachment 325103

View attachment 325104

View attachment 325105

View attachment 325106
Click to expand...
I have never seen an input shaft like the one in the green tcase, the other one is like all the ones I have seen.
They both seem to be 27 spline so you're good with either.
 
Once I degrease and clean the black tcase.
What is the proper technique to rattle can it? What needs to be covered?

Secondly,
What can be checked with the tcase out to confirm it’s good as far as seals, orings etc?
The previous had zero issues with it. The only reason he sold it was, he was building a blazer for his nephew who wanted the 205.

Visually it appears in better condition than the green one.
 
TJ1978 said:
Once I degrease and clean the black tcase.
What is the proper technique to rattle can it? What needs to be covered?

Secondly,
What can be checked with the tcase out to confirm it’s good as far as seals, orings etc?
The previous had zero issues with it. The only reason he sold it was, he was building a blazer for his nephew who wanted the 205.

Visually it appears in better condition than the green one.
Click to expand...
It does look like it is in better shape.
I don't think you can see much without running it.
You possibly could check the play in the gears but that's about it.
 
imiceman44 said:
It does look like it is in better shape.
I don't think you can see much without running it.
You possibly could check the play in the gears but that's about it.
Click to expand...

I’m going to run the black one. I swapped the Flange on the green one to the black one today. Will clean it up and get the tranny pulled on my next day off. Likely Wednesday after work to Thursday.

That dipstick bolt was a bitch couldn’t get it had to cut Blazer time short to get kids from school.

Its a slow process....
 
Gently push on the seals neoprene with a pocket screw driver. If they are pliable your ok. If they are hard and non moving you should replace.
 
Im going with the black one. The green is a bit beat up, not surprisingly, ya know?
Just going swap over the Tcase linkage. A good brak clean bath.

Can I us rattle can paint on it, if I want to paint it?

62BFC098-AB35-4BF1-8D18-D0D93637E1D5.jpeg

BF978D50-EE71-48B5-804A-D0F26678AC48.jpeg

2BCB7FA2-8476-47F9-A0F9-0FCAF1E03946.jpeg

F4A0E505-086A-4732-947B-CF544B288D9D.jpeg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom