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Th350 removal

There's a chain inside that 203 that drives the front output shaft....you should roll the front yoke quickly from right to left to see if you can feel any slack in that chain while you have the case out.

I would be interested to see what is behind that input shaft cover on the green case...as icemann said,,, I have never seen an input shaft like that one....it almost looks homemade ???
 
wasted wages said:
There's a chain inside that 203 that drives the front output shaft....you should roll the front yoke quickly from right to left to see if you can feel any slack in that chain while you have the case out.

I would be interested to see what is behind that input shaft cover on the green case...as icemann said,,, I have never seen an input shaft like that one....it almost looks homemade ???
Click to expand...

I will open it up and take a video and upload it to youtube
 
wasted wages said:
There's a chain inside that 203 that drives the front output shaft....you should roll the front yoke quickly from right to left to see if you can feel any slack in that chain while you have the case out.

I would be interested to see what is behind that input shaft cover on the green case...as icemann said,,, I have never seen an input shaft like that one....it almost looks homemade ???
Click to expand...

Both Tcases show no signs of slack.
 
Ok Im a bit stuck..
In order for me to get the tranny jack upto the pan the cross member needs to move. The angle twist know goes right into the cross member thus preventing the jack from going higher.

I can just remove the cross member but I dont see how to support the tranny from dropping if I do that.

I got the dipstick bolt out, which wasnt easy but now Im stuck. Any ideas?

If I try to move the tranny jack forward it hits into my engine support but still doesnt clear the cross member anyway.

I have jack stands there because thad red jack has a tendency to slowly leak.

981FBADD-D93B-421F-96DD-6EF0F552D5E0.jpeg

4B3E727E-111B-4B2C-8DF0-968FC6C57B52.jpeg

518FA5E4-88C3-409E-87E2-07DAF7DF1BAC.jpeg
 
Maybe put some wood on the tranny jack to make it flush with the pan while I remove the cross member?
 
TJ1978 said:
Maybe put some wood on the tranny jack to make it flush with the pan while I remove the cross member?
Click to expand...
I have dropped the transmission with the crossmember.
Unless the extra inches will make it too high for you to get it out from under the truck I suggest you do that
 
I have also before put a ratchet strap on the transmission or engine to keep it up without having anything under to bother me while working
 
Meh? Should work only downside is that those corner pieces wont make contact with the tranny but I have it down to the jack

309CB27D-8313-4DF6-AD8E-9D2903B142DF.jpeg
 
imiceman44 said:
I have dropped the transmission with the crossmember.
Unless the extra inches will make it too high for you to get it out from under the truck I suggest you do that
Click to expand...

With the wood I can leave the cross member attached
 
Wood worked to get it out but proved troublesome when trying to get the tranny out from underneath the truck. Also though my fault, made the tranny a bit wobbly on trans jack. But whatever, its out
 
TJ1978 said:
Wood worked to get it out but proved troublesome when trying to get the tranny out from underneath the truck. Also though my fault, made the tranny a bit wobbly on trans jack. But whatever, its out
Click to expand...
Putting it back in I just put the transmission tcase combo together bolted to the engine, put a strap on the tail of the tcase and then pulled out the Jack, put the crossmember on and then lifted it up to bolt the crossmember to the frame.
Worked pretty good that way
 
Now that its done. I see things I could have done a bit differently. Also, putting back in Im definitely going to attach the Tcase first. Figure maybe lay some 4x4’s in the cab and ratchet strap it to that for support.

We’ll see, now I need to clean all the nuts and bolts.
Engine didnt move much, distributor seems ok so far. It will have to be on jack stands for at least 2-3 weeks.
 
There also has to be another way to clamp down the dipstick tube. That thing will be bitch to tighten. I also want to do something about the wiring right there. But one step at a time.
 
Invest in a 9/16" impact wobble socket, 3/8" drive. Also a 20"+ extension 3/8 drive.
With those 2 tools you can remove just about any transmission bellhousing bolts(sae). You don't even need to remove floor hump.

Glad you got it out.
 
Wes Harden said:
Invest in a 9/16" impact wobble socket, 3/8" drive. Also a 20"+ extension 3/8 drive.
With those 2 tools you can remove just about any transmission bellhousing bolts(sae). You don't even need to remove floor hump.

Glad you got it out.
Click to expand...

From the holidays, a cold, kids getting sick. I didnt want to wait any longer. I needed this thing out, today.

I have all you listed except the 9/16 wobble socket. But my corded impact is 1/2 and I dont have 1/2 to 1/4 or 1/2 to 1/8 extension. So I used my 3/8 with extensions and duct tape. I will look into that wobble socket
 
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