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The 6,000 gal BLACK GOLD build

Well for work i decided to step up and be as much under my control as possible .

No more buying from middle man and always thinking is it brand A or B sealer in the tank . Or is it to THICK or to THIN .

From now on it will be under my control and my own problems if i screw up . And starting in this game making my own mix ratio i am happy to go back to this setup getting bulk concrete delivered to me .

I found a deal a old school tank made from 2 8ft wide x almost 22ft long sheets of 1/4"steel rolled as 1 ring. Then 2 of these welded together to make 16ft long barrel . The ends are also 1 piece ends at 1/4" thick also .

It’s kind of like playing at a https://animeflix.city/ Fast Payout Casino: when you take control of the process and things run smoothly, you get results fast and without the usual delays. The difference is, here you’re setting the rules and the payoff is in consistent quality and fewer headaches - just like when a casino pays out quickly and cleanly.

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That honestly sounds like a solid move. Having full control over your mix and setup removes a lot of guesswork and finger-pointing, even if it means owning the mistakes too
 
(n) down and out right now with welder being broken . long story but 10 year old licoln power mig 216 with under 1 dozen rolls of 44 lb wire in its life has a severe case of i weld when i want to and i do NOT when i want to . . looks like i need a 650 dollar board in it . :screwy:
 
Well the welder played nice today .

I got section #4 all burned in . Started doing my 3" pipe thread flanges for the pump . Finish them tomorrow.

Then start prepping the 4 cross tubes to get ready to weld them to the rail sections .
 
Shop bay cleaned out . Frame lined up ready for tank . Then i realized i cant set tank on frame in shop . Door opening only 10ft . So in am frame goes out and set tank on and strap it down then put back in shop . Welded on some 1/2" drings to use as strap pints . Welded them in line with ribs so there is a good pull point / load spread .

Once back in the shop will lift tank and position frame exactly as it needs to be and burn it in .

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So..... What kind of tires are going to hold up the other end? Nothing short of semi tires would take the weight right?
 
So..... What kind of tires are going to hold up the other end? Nothing short of semi tires would take the weight right?
Only wheels for empty weight use . Otherwise off when in use for sealer and whole unit sits flat on floor .

kenny said axle at 3rd crossmember / tube to back will see 5,560 lbs or so . but this will drop the tongue weight to around 1,450 lbs . this combo will be manageable for my needs . and the rear split in half per tire any load d or e tire should be more than fine . even a low pro car tire would be a little maxed but fine for my needs .
 
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Only wheels for empty weight use . Otherwise off when in use for sealer and whole unit sits flat on floor .

kenny said axle at 3rd crossmember / tube to back will see 5,560 lbs or so . but this will drop the tongue weight to around 1,450 lbs . this combo will be manageable for my needs . and the rear split in half per tire any load d or e tire should be more than fine . even a low pro car tire would be a little maxed but fine for my needs .
I didn't catch this at the time, but that is not including the pump and other hardware you plan to add. Since all of that will be on the hitch side, most of that will be added in your tongue weight.
 
Well plans did not go as i wanted .

Started jacking up to put rollers under it to push in shop and the sides i did not tack weld slid out and started to drop .

I tack welded the 2 still in and 1 on the front open . Now to get a plan together to get it inside .

I goofed thinking it would hold and stay with the 4 straps the way i had it . Good plan if i had just tack welded both sides .

Going to jack the tank up and try and slide it back in a bit . See how tomorrow goes . . . Just need it about 30 - 40 ft to be in the shop were the lift can float the tank and let me set the frame perfect .

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Old Egyptian / Roman method and a K30 with a Fisher plow got it done today .

Some 1.5" round stock chunks under rails best i could do . K30 in 4low ( not doubler low ) sticky snow tires and push . Little bit here and check . Add more round stock . And rolled & slid in way better than i figured it would .

Crazy what 1 person can do with a few simple basic tools .

And who said you cant fit a round peg in a square hole :pimp:

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Old Egyptian / Roman method and a K30 with a Fisher plow got it done today .

Some 1.5" round stock chunks under rails best i could do . K30 in 4low ( not doubler low ) sticky snow tires and push . Little bit here and check . Add more round stock . And rolled & slid in way better than i figured it would .

Crazy what 1 person can do with a few simple basic tools .

And who said you cant fit a round peg in a square hole :pimp:

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Good job.
I have done this trick many times, never anything this big though.
Not much else you could have used unless you had some really low profile wheels/tires to still fit through the door.
Are you planning to do the same to get it out when you are done building it?
 
Good job.
I have done this trick many times, never anything this big though.
Not much else you could have used unless you had some really low profile wheels/tires to still fit through the door.
Are you planning to do the same to get it out when you are done building it?
This was to just get it inside with the problems i had yesterday. There is wheels on rear half planned . And trailer hitch on front .
 
This was to just get it inside with the problems i had yesterday. There is wheels on rear half planned . And trailer hitch on front .
I know, I saw the axle with the drums bottom higher than the bottom of the frame.
Assuming you have tires small enough to clear the door.
I know you plan everything pretty well so I am guessing you couldn't use them yet because you have no front tongue to drive it in?
 

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