The Bent77 K10 now tow pig

[Bent77]

do you need to keep the tablet plugged in or on the whole time you drive or does it work without?

It works without it. I’m presuming it also still is learning as well, since I can feel a difference. I forget the tablet half the time I drive it

But if you want to make a change, well then you wish you had remembered it

So far I haven’t changed the base settings

 

[deadman]

ok thanks. I'm kinda thinking of running my ZZ4 that I have instead of an LS in my truck. Was looking at the pro-flo and then looking at the ZZ6 efi and was about to call GM Performance to see if I could get that efi set up....then realized it's the SAME efi...just the Gm crate doesn't come with the tablet since they set up the ecm at the factory.

 

[Bent77]

ok thanks. I'm kinda thinking of running my ZZ4 that I have instead of an LS in my truck. Was looking at the pro-flo and then looking at the ZZ6 efi and was about to call GM Performance to see if I could get that efi set up....then realized it's the SAME efi...just the Gm crate doesn't come with the tablet since they set up the ecm at the factory.

The engine I am running is essentially a ZZ5 if that means anything for you. About three minor changes in the cylinder heads from the 4, bottom end is identical including the cam

I keep this thread pretty up to date, and certainly will update on the EFI as I only have about 50 miles so far

 

[deadman]

the zz6 is the same from the heads down as the zz4, just newer heads/manifold. the zz4 moved my old truck fine(35s and 4:11s) , I'd just like efi this go 'round. So if the Edelbrock is better than the sniper, AND Gm is seemingly using it themselves........

 

[Bent77]

the zz6 is the same from the heads down as the zz4, just newer heads/manifold. the zz4 moved my old truck fine(35s and 4:11s) , I'd just like efi this go 'round. So if the Edelbrock is better than the sniper, AND Gm is seemingly using it themselves........

Well so far I like it

 

[deadman]

 

[sreidmx]

hows the thing for cold start? is that something they load in a base tune or you gotta figure it out?

 

[Bent77]

hows the thing for cold start? is that something they load in a base tune or you gotta figure it out?

Apparently the base tune is decent. Was 18* this morning and started right up, idled nice at 1100

Dave and I have talked about it needing adjustments later after it has learned more and pulled enough fuel off the base map to make it fussy

 

[Bent77]

 

[tenderfoot]

 

[nvrenuf]

Is that... bling?

 

[Bent77]

Going to replace the factory seal and bearing retainer. I didn’t measure the factory one, but getting tired of doing work three times

 

[skunked]

Going to replace the factory seal and bearing retainer. I didn’t measure the factory one, but getting tired of doing work three times

Does your currently leak when sitting or only when driving? I’ve noticed mine primarily leaks when moving and when I park on a incline it runs off my belly pan.

 

[Bent77]

Does your currently leak when sitting or only when driving? I’ve noticed mine primarily leaks when moving and when I park on a incline it runs off my belly pan.

It leaves a 2” spot when parked

And coats everything when running


I’ll keep this and the case thread updated. Going to Mic everything and see if we learn something about the tolerances

 

[Truckman4life]

Are those just standard lip seals with the spring inside them? I wonder if they make a version like the CR wheels seals that have the inner rubber part that seals to the yoke and then the sealing area is actually in the seal and not on the shaft. I think they are called Unitized seals.
Like this...

 

[skunked]

It leaves a 2” spot when parked

And coats everything when running


I’ll keep this and the case thread updated. Going to Mic everything and see if we learn something about the tolerances

sounds like yours is leaking a little worse than mine. I definitely have some slop on my output so I'm interested to hear what those figures are.

Are those just standard lip seals with the spring inside them? I wonder if they make a version like the CR wheels seals that have the inner rubber part that seals to the yoke and then the sealing area is actually in the seal and not on the shaft. I think they are called Unitized seals.
Like this...

That could be a solution but I'm not sure how well they would work with output slop. I think I remember a similar design on the Duramax rear main seal.

 

[Bent77]

These are standard type Timken. Maybe I’ll do some digging later. It’ll be easier to match the current seals up with measurements

But without slop, the standard ones are probably fine

 

[Bent77]

I bad mathed the other day.

At 58 miles now. Drove to the scrapper and cleaned out some junk. About 15 round trip
Enough time to warm up all that cast iron

Before I took off I adjusted the timing a bit. Was seeing 26* at 2500. Turned the total up to 38 from 36, start the advance at 1k, 200 rpm lower. Now seeing 31 at 2500. The digital tool is really neat for that

Noticeably better today. I’m sure warmed up oil and more timing helps. But certainly can feel it between 1k-3k. Also the ECM is running -20s at idle, -5-8 LT.

 

[Bent77]

So this engine is the evolution of the ZZ3-6 crate engines. Those we ran at the drag strip did not run faster at 40 than they did at 36, for whatever that is worth

Having said that, GM recommends 36. Obviously going to fuss with it a bit and see

Dave and I talked a bit about this. I'm mostly against messing with the settings a bunch early in the game of tuning. The base map is really still learning the engine for awhile, and I'd like to be able to determine what effect the timing tuning does. Best way to do that is to get that base map mostly dialed

But it felt soft so I added some



For reference, it took about 500 miles for the Sniper to self tune and be at mostly single digit on the fuel learn

 

[max 02]

It’s mostly over my head...but it sounds like you’re happy with the new system.

Right on!