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The Big Badda-Boom! T-case questions

Allright then. It's 305cid block with 350, 64cc heads. The cylinders have not been bored out.

I have tried the local CL. Hell, i live there. Got a person who is trying to sell an SM460...?...and it comes with a starter wheel...? They originally had it listed for $250...then dropped it to $100. I'm not sure if i can justify buying it when i need a t-case. But damn. Even my GF says i should buy it.

Is there any advantage of a 241 over a 208?

Edit: The only advantage i saw was a slight gearing difference (abt 1 rpm lower) and an oil pump. and possibly a huge price difference.
 
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The 241 will be newer and with the newer pump system it oils the bearings better. Probably will cost similar to the 208 If you buy it rebuilt. If you can find a good used unit it will Be much cheaper. It's nice to have a warrantee though if you have the extra money on a new unit. In not sure if the linkage is the same to shift the 241 though. I believe their were two version and one had a electric solenoid that shifted the gears electronically. Your 208 lasted this long in your truck so a stock replacement would be the easiest to do and get you driving again.
 
Found this on another thread:so is a direct bolt in with better oiling.

it is basically a 208. It has much better lubrication and also has a 2.72:1 low range instead of the 2.61:1 in the NP208. Takes about a quart less fluid than the 208.

It is a bolt in and even has the same gasket rebuild set as the NP208. What I discovered after swapping a 241 in was that the breather tube on it (towards the front of the unit on top) would spew fluid out if it didn't have a breather tube leading upwards (that was my observation of the improved lubrication!). Something you may want to check!

Leaks aside, I would say it is a preferable unit... and you can get a SYE for it!
 
blzrdrvr said:
Allright then. It's 305cid block with 350, 64cc heads. The cylinders have not been bored out.

I have tried the local CL. Hell, i live there. Got a person who is trying to sell an SM460...?...and it comes with a starter wheel...? They originally had it listed for $250...then dropped it to $100. I'm not sure if i can justify buying it when i need a t-case. But damn. Even my GF says i should buy it.

Is there any advantage of a 241 over a 208?

Edit: The only advantage i saw was a slight gearing difference (abt 1 rpm lower) and an oil pump. and possibly a huge price difference.
Click to expand...

As long as your valves no bigger then 1.94 I believe you can drop 350 heads on a 305 but you would lose CR and power so I have no idea why anyone would do that. You are basically wasting any power potential the heads could give you by using them on a 305. Not rare by any means and what i mean by that is GM NEVER built it like that because it would take a slug and turn it into a turnip. That is just the PO did to fix a cracked head something 305's are known for.

As far as the TC is concerned if you can find it the NP241 is better then the 208. It has slightly better gearing and as mentioned lubricating system. But basically the same as a 208. Just make sure it is a passenger side drop case.
 
scottsdale86 said:
As long as your valves no bigger then 1.94 I believe you can drop 350 heads on a 305 but you would lose CR and power so I have no idea why anyone would do that. You are basically wasting any power potential the heads could give you by using them on a 305. Not rare by any means and what i mean by that is GM NEVER built it like that because it would take a slug and turn it into a turnip. That is just the PO did to fix a cracked head something 305's are known for.

As far as the TC is concerned if you can find it the NP241 is better then the 208. It has slightly better gearing and as mentioned lubricating system. But basically the same as a 208. Just make sure it is a passenger side drop case.
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the only plus side, a 305 crank is same stroke as 350...:dunno:
 
well...while we are at it... I'm guessing a SYE does not eliminate the slip, it eliminates the possibility of the yoke slipping OUT? I'm not that flexible, yet, it's not on the parts list.

As for the engine...the PO didn't do it. The CO did it...and once i switched to a 1-wire dizzy (thus bypassing the computer), OH GOOD LORD. 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust. This engine exceeds the spec of GM's own 305 HO. :pimp:

Well...i can ask the place i'm considering getting the NP208 from what they want for a NP241, year 1989, with a 32-spline input. Either way, i have to get a yoke...hopefully the output bell will match from my 208. what a kick in the wallet.

Thanks for the help, guys. A lot of good information. I like to get my little duckies in a row before i send them off to the lake.
 
A slip yoke eliminator removes the slip yoke from the transmission output. You still have to have a slip yoke, so use a different driveshaft. One that has the slip yoke in the driveshaft. Like your front driveshaft.

Martin
 
For most daily driving, mild, moderate wheeling an NP208 will work just fine. Plus, as long as you find one with the correct input, it is a direct bolt in.

With that said, $550 for a rebuilt unit isn't a bad deal. I think I paid somewhere around that to have mine rebuilt, this was after I had swapped in 2 different unknown condition used ones in a years time. After that I was DONE swapping in cheap used units.
 
Not to hijack, but the draw of a 241 from my perspective is the support from JB conversions for SYE and other stuff. It looks like there are a lot of people out there paying attention to 241's. 208's are "good enough" units that people just happen to have. I'll probably mod my 208, but if I could get a 241 for cheap I could take my time getting it ready using JB conversions parts and swap it in in half a day. The Tom Woods 208 SYE still feels a little unknown.
 
Mastiff said:
Not to hijack, but the draw of a 241 from my perspective is the support from JB conversions for SYE and other stuff. It looks like there are a lot of people out there paying attention to 241's. 208's are "good enough" units that people just happen to have. I'll probably mod my 208, but if I could get a 241 for cheap I could take my time getting it ready using JB conversions parts and swap it in in half a day. The Tom Woods 208 SYE still feels a little unknown.
Click to expand...


IMO the performance aspect of a 241 vs 208 is not that much different...

And most people do not need a sye...
 
Deuling said:
IMO the performance aspect of a 241 vs 208 is not that much different...
Click to expand...

Agreed, I'm just saying there's aftermarket support for 241. Nobody even has instructions for how to rebuild a 208 as far as I can tell.

And most people do not need a sye...
Click to expand...

There's not much need in this 4x4 business, mostly want. I wanted 1-ton axles, and now I don't want a 1350 CV hanging off a slip yoke. A few degrees of driveline angle savings is a good thing too.
 
Well. Have purchased and installed new TC. works great. Nobody told me there was a gasket from the adapter to th TC. The TC also leaked from the top, not too bad...but still. Took it to The Old Man's place and yanked it. installed the gasket. TC seemed to be seeping from the top, so i put a bit of tightening on the top bolts and band-aided the seam with RTV. No leaks. What was the culprit of the old TC? Ya got me. :dunno: the speedo gear had been broken (something seized< or maybe reversed?) and then began spinning again, as when i removed it, it had been heat welded onto it's shaft off center and tilted.

But i still have a nice grinding noise in third gear, and i have narrowed it down to deceleration. Specifically when the accelerator pedal is not being pushed on accelerating, not when my foot is off the pedal, but when i'm gently pressing on the pedal, trying to maintain speed. It happens at about 40mph. a nice quiet grinding when i'm in town, (can barely hear it with the exhaust) but i can feel it in my clutch pedal and shifter. And it screams at highway speed. Does not go away with clutch depressed. So I'm going with the pilot bearing.

I'm also going with the transmission. Heck, new engine, new TC, new axles, only thing left is to rebuild the SM465. I'm looking at a kit from Novak Adapters, $230. There's one on Amazon for half that, but it doesn't have all the things the one from Novak does. Any other suggestions for a rebuild kit?
 
I dealt with Novak for my Scout trans and tcase rebuilds and was impressed, plus they'll help you out. I don't think you can go wrong.
 
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