your trans cooler has out and in temps ? 1 or 2 gauges ? which temp sender are you using, 1/8" npt ?
Lot of cool good work here.
Lot of cool good work here.
CK5
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The BluJay
- Thread starter AugustDiesel
- Start date
Yessir, its the same setup i had on my last 700. Pretty sure its 1/8” NPT, but yeah in and out just cause i like watching everything. I have one gauge for each from glowshift and it comes with the senders.
Much appreciated, its a lot of hard work, but conceptually I'm surprised how easy this swap is.
Swapped in some long tube headers from summit. Got some fitment issues to work through but we are getting there. Stage eight locking bolts for the win. I’ll finish that process probably later this evening.
While I had the PS pump out, I figured that was the perfect time to swap in the Hydro boost power steering pump that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for like a year. Had to trim up the support bracket a bit and reuse one of the exhaust studs but otherwise the install went pretty well.
Andy
While I had the PS pump out, I figured that was the perfect time to swap in the Hydro boost power steering pump that I’ve had sitting on the shelf for like a year. Had to trim up the support bracket a bit and reuse one of the exhaust studs but otherwise the install went pretty well.
Andy
Been hard at it. Ended up deciding to lift the truck another 2”. Added a leaf to the front pack which got me an inch and three quarters. Added a leaf to the rear pack and made my own zero rates which got me 2” exactly, so this is a net 4” lift.
Reason I made my own zero rates is because the perches I used are longer 7.5” Barnes perches hitch help with anti wrap. I figure if I used the standard length ORD zero rates then I’d lose that functionality. Drew up 2 pairs of 1/2” thick plates on sendcutsend.com with a hole for the center pin. Put bevels in the top plates then welded them together in the corners and the sides.
Andy
Reason I made my own zero rates is because the perches I used are longer 7.5” Barnes perches hitch help with anti wrap. I figure if I used the standard length ORD zero rates then I’d lose that functionality. Drew up 2 pairs of 1/2” thick plates on sendcutsend.com with a hole for the center pin. Put bevels in the top plates then welded them together in the corners and the sides.
Andy
Also got the Hydroboost and brake MC / prop valve set up. Yanked the Hydroboost unit from the RedBurb and then ordered an MC for a 1 ton dually. Could not find a MC for 4 wheel discs that matched the bore size and outlet sizes that I needed, so i figured this MC was my best option as the rear section for the rear brakes does indeed look larger, maybe even proportionally even to the front. Then of course a 4-wheel disc prop valve, which is not pictured because everyone knows what those look like.
Andy
Andy
What a great transformation this truck has had.
David
David
Thanks. I hope to get it wrapped up before work starts again in the new year.
Special delivery
Andy
Andy
Gonna put this here for anyone else that runs into this problem in the future, as I could find next to nothing on the internet about it.
The threads on the factory 10-bolt/Dana 44 lug studs are only 1” in length, which leaves less than 1/2” … or 4-5 threads of thread engagement when using the thick aluminum wheels. Not acceptable for my risk-adverse soul.
Pictured below are a couple sample studs, with one painted that I then mounted in the wheel with the nuts I’ll be using to test thread engagement.
That’s is the Dorman stud part number ending in 180.
Using Summit’s website with their excellent filtering options, I was able to search other options and came down to one, that is, if I wanted to maintain the 9/16-18 thread pattern, which I did.
Dorman part number ending in 419.
It’s a Ford stud. Everything is near identical: shoulder length and width, knurl width and placement (placement is really important - The knurl needs to grab the hub AFTER going through the rotor, so it needs to be at the top of the shoulder, not the bottom) and the thread length is about an additional 3/8-1/2”. One major difference is that the top of the shoulder on the 419 does NOT have a taper like the 180 does, which helps the shoulder to get started into the hub. Good thing I have a bench grinder.
Popping the old studs out with the press was easy. Popping the new ones in is a bit more of a challenge because there’s not much room to center the stud under the press with the arbor plates once the hub/rotor assembly is flipped upside down. That’s where the old rotor comes in handy.
I’ve got 3 in now, and I’ve tested the thread length on the wheel and the new studs are not too long, but I imagine I’m darn well maxing out the available threads on the new studs. I’ll do another paint test during lunch and post up the results.
Andy
The threads on the factory 10-bolt/Dana 44 lug studs are only 1” in length, which leaves less than 1/2” … or 4-5 threads of thread engagement when using the thick aluminum wheels. Not acceptable for my risk-adverse soul.
Pictured below are a couple sample studs, with one painted that I then mounted in the wheel with the nuts I’ll be using to test thread engagement.
That’s is the Dorman stud part number ending in 180.
Using Summit’s website with their excellent filtering options, I was able to search other options and came down to one, that is, if I wanted to maintain the 9/16-18 thread pattern, which I did.
Dorman part number ending in 419.
It’s a Ford stud. Everything is near identical: shoulder length and width, knurl width and placement (placement is really important - The knurl needs to grab the hub AFTER going through the rotor, so it needs to be at the top of the shoulder, not the bottom) and the thread length is about an additional 3/8-1/2”. One major difference is that the top of the shoulder on the 419 does NOT have a taper like the 180 does, which helps the shoulder to get started into the hub. Good thing I have a bench grinder.
Popping the old studs out with the press was easy. Popping the new ones in is a bit more of a challenge because there’s not much room to center the stud under the press with the arbor plates once the hub/rotor assembly is flipped upside down. That’s where the old rotor comes in handy.
I’ve got 3 in now, and I’ve tested the thread length on the wheel and the new studs are not too long, but I imagine I’m darn well maxing out the available threads on the new studs. I’ll do another paint test during lunch and post up the results.
Andy
Well, can’t really tell with the paint test, but I estimate the thread engagement to be about 3/4” (paint is on the stud in the background, not the foreground).
Andy
Andy
That's plenty.
The rule is minimum the thickness of the stud in depth
I don't know the number but I initially put dually studs from carquest in my 14 bolt and 10 bolt for some pretty thick cheaper aluminum rims I used to run. Had to shorten them a little when I went to steel wheels. I run the tall chrome lugnuts.
Now that we’re back from Christmas, we rolled the suburban out to turn it around and back it up to the garage so I can focus on the rear suspension. Figured while she was shining in the sun I’d snap some pics.
Andy
Andy
The things you can do with AI …
Went on a snowy adventure and I didn’t even leave the house!
Andy
Went on a snowy adventure and I didn’t even leave the house!
Andy
Tomorrow’s gonna be a good day.
Andy
Andy
This week has not been friendly to me. What I had hoped to get done in one day I am still working on. Not because the work itself was more challenging than expected, it’s just life happening. But that’s the way it works right?
Anyhow, I got the rear anti rock sway bar and shock crossmember mocked up.
First set of photos: the Currie anti rock system. Jake Roberts makes an under frame kit, but I wanted as much clearance as possible. This is the “over frame” kit, situating the sway bar between the fuel tank and body. The arms Z outward so the links land outside the leaf springs. The frame brackets CAN be bolted to the frame, but I don’t want to drop the fuel tank, so I’m welding them in.
Second set of photos is the long travel shock crossmember. These allow me to use longer than stock shocks in the rear, adds additional strength via the crossmember reducing stress to the frame, and positions the crossmember above the frame for maximum clearance. I had to modify the tabs to angle them outward to gain maximum clearance from the leaf springs.
I am hopeful that maximum stability has been achieved here.
It’s all burned in now and painted. Paint looks a little rough bc of the cold, but I’m okay w it.
Andy
Anyhow, I got the rear anti rock sway bar and shock crossmember mocked up.
First set of photos: the Currie anti rock system. Jake Roberts makes an under frame kit, but I wanted as much clearance as possible. This is the “over frame” kit, situating the sway bar between the fuel tank and body. The arms Z outward so the links land outside the leaf springs. The frame brackets CAN be bolted to the frame, but I don’t want to drop the fuel tank, so I’m welding them in.
Second set of photos is the long travel shock crossmember. These allow me to use longer than stock shocks in the rear, adds additional strength via the crossmember reducing stress to the frame, and positions the crossmember above the frame for maximum clearance. I had to modify the tabs to angle them outward to gain maximum clearance from the leaf springs.
I am hopeful that maximum stability has been achieved here.
It’s all burned in now and painted. Paint looks a little rough bc of the cold, but I’m okay w it.
Andy
Be interested to see what you think of it once you get it on the road.
So much good lookin stuff peakin through.
Borrowing the pop-in-law’s OBS pick up truck again. The tires on it were really old and since I always try to leave borrowed things in better condition than when I found them, I decided to do something about it.
Turns out the tires are the exact same size as the ones I’ve had on the suburban originally, and even the wheels are the exact same diameter, bolt pattern, and backspacing, so I swapped them out during lunch. He is pretty excited about it.
I had just thrown a cheap set of brand new tires on these wheels about two months before I started the four-wheel-drive conversion so this allows the original suburban wheels and the new tires to stay in the family and go to a good purpose.
And they look good too.
Andy
Turns out the tires are the exact same size as the ones I’ve had on the suburban originally, and even the wheels are the exact same diameter, bolt pattern, and backspacing, so I swapped them out during lunch. He is pretty excited about it.
I had just thrown a cheap set of brand new tires on these wheels about two months before I started the four-wheel-drive conversion so this allows the original suburban wheels and the new tires to stay in the family and go to a good purpose.
And they look good too.
Andy
ORD draglink, tie rod, and crossover steering arm are all painted and installed. Working through some issues with the steering geometry but should have that sorted out soon.
My driveshaft guy came back out yesterday and installed the bearings, races, and seals in all 4 wheel ends, as well as new parking brake shoes and hardware on the rear axle.
While he was doing that, I was able to get started on the exhaust. I bought pre bent tubing to do a full 2-into-1 3” exhaust from the headers back. Found out that while the headers dump at 3”, the included couplings to get started on the exhaust is only 2 1/4”. Fortunately, the 3 bolt flange is big enough to fit over a 3” tube so I cut the excess 2, 1/4” length off and welded the 3” tube to it.
These intermediate pipes will closely mirror the design I used on the Rusty Burb I brought to Moab. Starting on the passenger side first. It runs up and over the crossmember and then behind the transfer case to join the other pipe on the driver side. This is as far as I got yesterday. These magnets were a last minute purchase and turned out to be quite handy.
I should be able to get a little more done today and hope to have this wrapped up by the end of this week.
Andy
My driveshaft guy came back out yesterday and installed the bearings, races, and seals in all 4 wheel ends, as well as new parking brake shoes and hardware on the rear axle.
While he was doing that, I was able to get started on the exhaust. I bought pre bent tubing to do a full 2-into-1 3” exhaust from the headers back. Found out that while the headers dump at 3”, the included couplings to get started on the exhaust is only 2 1/4”. Fortunately, the 3 bolt flange is big enough to fit over a 3” tube so I cut the excess 2, 1/4” length off and welded the 3” tube to it.
These intermediate pipes will closely mirror the design I used on the Rusty Burb I brought to Moab. Starting on the passenger side first. It runs up and over the crossmember and then behind the transfer case to join the other pipe on the driver side. This is as far as I got yesterday. These magnets were a last minute purchase and turned out to be quite handy.
I should be able to get a little more done today and hope to have this wrapped up by the end of this week.
Andy
