When I was growing up in Wis you pretty much had to replace all brake lines on every beater you owned at some point. Haven't had to do any since coming to Utah 20 yrs ago. LOL.
CK5
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The GAC Truck
- Thread starter Chevy305
- Start date
I got the brake lines finished. I had a new master cylinder when I bought all the brake parts a few years, so I tossed it on. So in total, I have a new driver caliper, pads, and rotor, master, new lines from prop valve to both front brakes, new rubber hoses, and a new section of 1/4" line for the rear. The front blend very quickly but the back took forever to get all the air out. If you don't have a Motive pressure bleeder you need to buy one. The brakes do work better now and my kids giggled through the driveway brake tests lol. It won't quite lock them up but I didn't fully stand on them either but that makes for more controlled braking in the ice and snow.
GAC truck still putting in the work with our first significant snow of the year. Got about 12"
I also found some posts on a vintage plowing group on FB that talked about welding a pipe to the bottom of your plow so it won't gouge dirt or gravel driveways. This is a big problem with a heavy plow and when the ground is soft from the various freeze/thaw cycles that we get around here. Just feathering the plow is hard to do with as many contours as my driveway has. There were guys saying they plow athletic fields with pipes and have no issues. Plus some plow manufacturers are selling rounded cutting edges for this exact thing. I figured I'd give it a shot.
I grabbed a 10ft piece of 1.5 schd 40 off the shelf at Home Depot. I cut it down to 8ft and cut a 1/2" slit down the pipe and hammered it on. It was a little loose so I fabbed up a few tabs to hold it to the cutting edge bolts. The whole thing came out pretty decent I think.
Sure enough it worked awesome and the plow didn't trip once which is rare for first plow of the season as you inevitably find some rocks that are a little proud. It didn't gouge or scrape up anything. It does leave a little more snow on the ground but I'm going to keep running it and see how this winter works out.
I also found some posts on a vintage plowing group on FB that talked about welding a pipe to the bottom of your plow so it won't gouge dirt or gravel driveways. This is a big problem with a heavy plow and when the ground is soft from the various freeze/thaw cycles that we get around here. Just feathering the plow is hard to do with as many contours as my driveway has. There were guys saying they plow athletic fields with pipes and have no issues. Plus some plow manufacturers are selling rounded cutting edges for this exact thing. I figured I'd give it a shot.
I grabbed a 10ft piece of 1.5 schd 40 off the shelf at Home Depot. I cut it down to 8ft and cut a 1/2" slit down the pipe and hammered it on. It was a little loose so I fabbed up a few tabs to hold it to the cutting edge bolts. The whole thing came out pretty decent I think.
Sure enough it worked awesome and the plow didn't trip once which is rare for first plow of the season as you inevitably find some rocks that are a little proud. It didn't gouge or scrape up anything. It does leave a little more snow on the ground but I'm going to keep running it and see how this winter works out.
Cool old truck.
Martin
Martin
Thanks Martin
I feel like for you the only thing missing for you is the hub caps.
I can send you a set.
Martin
Martin
Can you put hub caps on rally wheels?
The wheels are on you!
Look for a set of M1009 CUCV wheels.
MArtin
Look for a set of M1009 CUCV wheels.
MArtin
Fixing a wiped axle ujoint, debating doing the full circle clip mod or just throwing it back together. I haven't had an issue tossing caps but the clips were all pretty rusted. I'll probably just send it and find out
File ears flat / clean and send it . My k30 with 9ft fisher plow has yet to pop a cap in over 20 years on this axle .
