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The Great Smaug

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With regard to the brush guard, the 78 k-30 I just picked up has the exact same one on it. I am guessing it was a Chevy thing at some point. I actually have both the Chevy and CUCV versions on trucks now if you wanted a side by side comparison.
 
Vombrown said:
With regard to the brush guard, the 78 k-30 I just picked up has the exact same one on it. I am guessing it was a Chevy thing at some point. I actually have both the Chevy and CUCV versions on trucks now if you wanted a side by side comparison.
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Thanks for the offer. I have my M1009, so I already have a good picture of what the CUCV guard looks like. Could you send a picture of the 78? Thanks again.
 
campfire said:
1-2 is perfect, 2-3 flares into neutral before settling down into 3rd, 3-4 is perfect. In longer drives 4th was vanishing altogether, but I only put 8 miles on the truck tonight. I did manually run it back and forth between 3rd and 4th, and I did not have any issues tonight. The T/C never locks up in any gear. I did note that my fluid level is halfway between "low" and "Add 1 Pint," So I'll check that before I give up all hope for this 700R4.
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2-3 is the toughest shift to get right because it's the one where two things happen: the band releases and the 3-4 clutch engages. The other two shifts are just application of the band. If it flares up, the band is coming off too quickly or the 3-4 clutch is engaging too slowly. If it sometimes isn't going into 4th, I would suspect the servo action. There is no indication of problems with the forward clutch or the 3-4 clutch (in your description). So it could be a worn or sticky valve or a seal leaking a little too much. If we're talking a 1 second flare-up (actually, it's a return to 1st gear!), it might be cured by a Corvette servo (bigger = slower). If it's full-on neutral for a few seconds, you may be pulling the trans. It's theoretically possible to drill the separator plate for more 3rd apply oil, but this is really in Ducato territory here.

Of course start with the fluid level and try another click on the TV cable.

Any why are Suburban pictures always at gas stations?
 
Blue85 said:
2-3 is the toughest shift to get right because it's the one where two things happen: the band releases and the 3-4 clutch engages. The other two shifts are just application of the band. If it flares up, the band is coming off too quickly or the 3-4 clutch is engaging too slowly. If it sometimes isn't going into 4th, I would suspect the servo action. There is no indication of problems with the forward clutch or the 3-4 clutch (in your description). So it could be a worn or sticky valve or a seal leaking a little too much. If we're talking a 1 second flare-up (actually, it's a return to 1st gear!), it might be cured by a Corvette servo (bigger = slower). If it's full-on neutral for a few seconds, you may be pulling the trans. It's theoretically possible to drill the separator plate for more 3rd apply oil, but this is really in Ducato territory here.

Of course start with the fluid level and try another click on the TV cable.
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Thanks for the input. This is reaching back 2 years, but right before I parked it I was seeing 4th gear fade after a few miles. By which I mean that when the rig was warmed up it would start shifting from 3rd into neutral instead of 4th. Or it would go into 4th when coasting but immediately downshift at the slightest throttle pressure. But only when hot, not when cold.

This week's trip was too short for me to replicate that issue.

It also has a 2-second delay when shifting into reverse, consistent with a low fluid level. But I'm not down to the add line yet. And it doesn't delay when shifting into 1st. :dunno: :1zhelp:
 
Usually when a belt spits it deforms slightly and is then more susceptible to being spit again and again. Check your pulley alignment, shim the alternator as necessary, and then replace your belt.

A serpentine setup is definitely a good way to go but until you find all the parts, might be easier to start with replacing the belt.
 
Chevy305 said:
Usually when a belt spits it deforms slightly and is then more susceptible to being spit again and again. Check your pulley alignment, shim the alternator as necessary, and then replace your belt.

A serpentine setup is definitely a good way to go but until you find all the parts, might be easier to start with replacing the belt.
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Well, the last 2 times the belt has gone AWOL, so I haven't been reusing it. I have no idea where the belt is now. It's not in my yard, or the lawnmower would have found it by now. Didn't see it on the roadside, either. :dunno:

I will replace the belt as needed, but long-term I don't see the V-belts staying.

Plan at this point is to overhaul the engine & tranny this fall (after camping season). I have enough leaks & issues that I think it'll be easier to fix it on a stand. Doing the rear main from the bottom wasn't very fun last time.

Plus, this showed up this week. It's going to be a while before I'm done 'fixing' this rig. I'm still adding to the parts collection. :rolleyes:

IMGP4729.JPG
 
max 02 said:
Why!? Lol!
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Good question. I did figure out that it never stays tight because the top retaining bolt hole is stripped. I've found a set of serpentine brackets, so I will probably be switching things up during my overhaul. Plan is to yank the engine and replace my leaky seals & gaskets on the stand, install my turbocharger, and do the tranny swap all at the same time (at the end of summer season).

Brown Santa is bringing me 4 new springs this week. I settled on 3" EZ rides in the front and soft stock 1/2-tons in the back. I think I'm going to hafta buy new rear shocks, as @AgDieseler's recycled 14" 5100s won't compress past 20.5". Borderline workable, but I don't want to bottom out the flimsy stock shock mounts (already welded one up before). Front doesn't look like it'll be an issue. I'm gonna wait until I have the new rear springs in and remeasure the final configuration.
 
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