Oh, Martin. Overthinking things is what tiggers do best!
Thanks to you and @skunked for the kick in the pants. You've single-handedly doubled the odds of having this thing actually road-worthy this year.
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Oh, Martin. Overthinking things is what tiggers do best!
Thanks to you and @skunked for the kick in the pants. You've single-handedly doubled the odds of having this thing actually road-worthy this year.
Noted. I did not realize the modern rigs were cruising below 2000RPM. It is true that 3.73 is overkill for a slow-turning 6.2. On stock 31" tires it would be happier with 3.42 or 3.23 gears.
So when's the LS swap happening?
My Silverado does about 1700 rpm at 60 mph in double overdrive, the Yukon used to do 1800 in overdrive at 60.
Well then the path is chosen. Like you said, camping season is coming. Time to fire up the heater and get to work in the Barn to get ready for it!
Yes. I want this thing proven & reliable before May (with some accumulated miles). 5 months and counting.
I am going to get this truck to the top of Cliff Mine even if I hafta borrow another towstrap!
Evening #1 saw some minor victories and some poor planning on my part. I changed the rear main seal and resealed the pan. I left the timing cover dry because I have a new timing set to install (good thing, as the chain is pretty loose). I dropped a bolt into the sandbox. I'm not sure where my puller is for the balancer. But I don't have longer bolts handy, so it wouldn't have worked anyways.
So I turned toward the upper port side of the engine. My el-cheapo 30MM deep-well socket isn't deep enough to extract the injectors (I suppose it would work if I unscrewed the top sections). I pulled the rearmost (most exposed) one off with a crescent wrench. I'll take that down to the socket store tomorrow.
Glow plugs went smoothly. I'm surprised how much discoloration the ceramic has, I just put these plugs in ~2000 miles ago (though it's been most of 4 years since then).
I gently pulled back the injector lines and resealed the valve cover and called it a night.
Baby steps, Bob. Baby steps. I really should have gotten a lot more done tonight.
I'm not sure where my puller is for the balancer. But I don't have longer bolts handy, so it wouldn't have worked anyways. So I turned toward the upper port side of the engine. My el-cheapo 30MM deep-well socket isn't deep enough to extract the injectors (I suppose it would work if I unscrewed the top sections). I pulled the rearmost (most exposed) one off with a crescent wrench. I'll take that down to the socket store tomorrow.
Glow plugs went smoothly. I'm surprised how much discoloration the ceramic has, I just put these plugs in ~2000 miles ago (though it's been most of 4 years since then).
I gently pulled back the injector lines and resealed the valve cover and called it a night.
Baby steps, Bob. Baby steps. I really should have gotten a lot more done tonight.
It does look like the block heater has been leaking coolant. Should there be sealant where it sticks into the frost plug opening? I'm not seeing anything in the gap, it looks like it's just shoved into the hole. 
It does look like the block heater has been leaking coolant. Should there be sealant where it sticks into the frost plug opening? I'm not seeing anything in the gap, it looks like it's just shoved into the hole.
The block heater has an o-ring that seals it.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...r7Up_buExp8DE0BitZUBrIKVeBO_IMUhoCUUYQAvD_BwE
This is the socket you need for the injectors.
This is the socket you need for the injectors.
Btw I have matches
Btw I have matches
I'd suggest you don't light them or you'll scorch that pretty kitchen table you were examining yesterday.
My G8 cruises about 1800 at 70 or so. Works well.
Evening 2 progress:
Replaced all 8 injectors. You don't need the special socket but you do need to be careful with the alignment. The injector bodies sit slightly loose inside the 30MM socket, and if the socket tilts it can bend or break the overflow nipples. I had no problem with these, but have bent one in the past. Torque spec is only 50 ft-lbs, so it's not too hard to keep it lined up. Loctite is your friend. Just kidding, you should use Antiseize on these.
And then...the shocker...all 8 exhaust manifold bolts came out with zero issues. None. Zero. They weren't rusted in half, they didn't break off inside the block. They just...unbolted. I'm still not sure how that happened. I installed the other 4 new glow plugs and mocked up the ATS turbocharger manifold. It's massive but looks like it should fit into the frame just fine. But I could not tighten it up because it contacted the fuel return line as well as the forward injector lines. 3 of the glow plugs are not accessible, and one of them will need to have its tab bent just to get a wire to it. I thought the 6.5 was poorly laid out, but this is significantly worse. I'll grab some pictures later. The return line isn't a problem, but the injector lines don't have another place to go.
On the plus side, it does have plumbing for the CDR valve, so it's a step up from what I used to run.
Replaced all 8 injectors. You don't need the special socket but you do need to be careful with the alignment. The injector bodies sit slightly loose inside the 30MM socket, and if the socket tilts it can bend or break the overflow nipples. I had no problem with these, but have bent one in the past. Torque spec is only 50 ft-lbs, so it's not too hard to keep it lined up. Loctite is your friend. Just kidding, you should use Antiseize on these.
And then...the shocker...all 8 exhaust manifold bolts came out with zero issues. None. Zero. They weren't rusted in half, they didn't break off inside the block. They just...unbolted. I'm still not sure how that happened. I installed the other 4 new glow plugs and mocked up the ATS turbocharger manifold. It's massive but looks like it should fit into the frame just fine. But I could not tighten it up because it contacted the fuel return line as well as the forward injector lines. 3 of the glow plugs are not accessible, and one of them will need to have its tab bent just to get a wire to it. I thought the 6.5 was poorly laid out, but this is significantly worse. I'll grab some pictures later. The return line isn't a problem, but the injector lines don't have another place to go.
On the plus side, it does have plumbing for the CDR valve, so it's a step up from what I used to run.
Alright. This thread is several evenings behind now. I've run into a pile of small snags, but things are happening one warm day at a time. First up, the pictures of the turbine manifold. I've worked around each of these snags, but it still doesn't seem like a kit designed exactly for this engine.
Fuel return line.
The injector/GP pockets. It's a workable amount of space, but it's not obvious that either of them are ever coming out once the manifold is bolted down.
The injector lines currently hit the turbine flange. There will be a little bit of clearance once they're bolted down. But I don't understand why they are so stingy with the vertical height.
GP access from the side. I think I'll need a bracket to keep the wiring away from the manifold.
The down pipe is cast into the manifold, producing a much larger (double-tall) casting than the stock 6.5 or 6.2 manifolds. But it still clears the lower hardware without issue.
And the oil return line drains into the rocker arm cover. Very nice for those still using the mechanical fuel pump.
Fuel return line.
The injector/GP pockets. It's a workable amount of space, but it's not obvious that either of them are ever coming out once the manifold is bolted down.
The injector lines currently hit the turbine flange. There will be a little bit of clearance once they're bolted down. But I don't understand why they are so stingy with the vertical height.
GP access from the side. I think I'll need a bracket to keep the wiring away from the manifold.
The down pipe is cast into the manifold, producing a much larger (double-tall) casting than the stock 6.5 or 6.2 manifolds. But it still clears the lower hardware without issue.
And the oil return line drains into the rocker arm cover. Very nice for those still using the mechanical fuel pump.
Timing set is done. Loose chain turned into a very tight chain. Tight enough it got harder to turn the engine over. The timing cover casting is just as crummy as I remember it. The one thing about this dirt simple engine that's just stupidly complicated. I don't know what they were thinking casting a large spacer between the water pump and the timing chain. Then running the water channels through it. And then throwing in a separate backing plate on the water pump. Either of which can easily leak coolant into the oil pan. It seems like a useless combination of bolts and gaskets guaranteed to cause problems periodically. [/rant]
Anyways, it was a fun job. I'll take internal engine work any day over rusty bodywork.
Here is it with the water pump removed.
My original timing mark for reference. IP on top, timing cover on bottom.
In order to change the gears I need to remove the housing. Which means I unbolt the IP and lose my timing reference.
Front side of the casting.
Back side.
It's quite beefy for a glorified dust cover.
The target.
Going back together.
The new chain was a whole lot tighter than the old one, and the marks weren't lined up previously (so maybe the P.O. had adjusted for the stretched chain?). The almighty interwebz recommend a line thickness or two between the marks. Among many conflicting answers. I pulled the marks a hair closer together but left it still a bit advanced. Lacking equipment to properly set timing I'm stuck guessing and checking if it's not right.
Back together, using the old pump to secure the permatex while it cured. The new water pump somehow got crossed off my parts list without me actually ordering one. I also wound up with two crank seals and no seal for the oil fill.
They'll be here soon.
Anyways, it was a fun job. I'll take internal engine work any day over rusty bodywork.
Here is it with the water pump removed.
My original timing mark for reference. IP on top, timing cover on bottom.
In order to change the gears I need to remove the housing. Which means I unbolt the IP and lose my timing reference.
Front side of the casting.
Back side.
It's quite beefy for a glorified dust cover.
The target.
Going back together.
The new chain was a whole lot tighter than the old one, and the marks weren't lined up previously (so maybe the P.O. had adjusted for the stretched chain?). The almighty interwebz recommend a line thickness or two between the marks. Among many conflicting answers. I pulled the marks a hair closer together but left it still a bit advanced. Lacking equipment to properly set timing I'm stuck guessing and checking if it's not right.
Back together, using the old pump to secure the permatex while it cured. The new water pump somehow got crossed off my parts list without me actually ordering one.
I also wound up with two crank seals and no seal for the oil fill. They'll be here soon.
Here's my Chevy bowtie. On my GMC.
Martin will now feel obligated to point out that it doesn't say Detroit anywhere on the engine or its accessories.
Martin will now feel obligated to point out that it doesn't say Detroit anywhere on the engine or its accessories.
Before and after timing marks, side by side for future reference.
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