Side note...I decided to list the K5 truck on Ebay again. I can't possibly enjoy keeping up with all 3 of them anymore, at least one of them needs to go! 
CK5
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Alright. I have another noob question. What is the name of this type of flange connection? I have both a flare for the flange, and a piece of straight pipe sticking into the manifold. I'm sure I could get away with a normal flare flange, but I have not yet been able to figure out what I'm looking at. I think it's a flare with a piece of pipe and a gasket inserted into the opening, but I haven't found anything similar in the exhaust catalogs.
Pretty sure the old exhaust donut is stuck in the flare.
Your finding out why the ATS setup wasn't as popular as the banks one.
It kinda looks like that, but it sure is firmly attached. And the gasket material has collapsed down to a rock-hard substance, despite looking like fiberglass.
I don't understand the popularity comment. The Banks system has better flow, but I have no idea which company had better support 30 years ago. If you handed me a random Banks manifold I'd be going through exactly the same problems (though Banks still has a parts catalog today, so that would be a plus). I'm assuming that both kits originally came with all their pieces.
I decided to give up on clamps and adapters and I'm just going to weld 2" fittings onto my existing 2.5" crossover piece. But the interference on the passenger side is strong enough that I'm going to wait until the drivetrain is installed. That corridor is going to be interesting, the two exhaust pipes want to share the same space, and I still have a driveshaft and a starter to wedge in there...
Both ATS and Banks made turbo kits for both Ford and GM. Banks was more of a known brand I think and they could be dealer installed on GM truck's too. Which hales them be better know. I think it was a better fitting system also.
I like the location of the ATS turbine (above the valve cover), but there is no doubt that the Banks crossover routing is superior to either of the kits I have. Coming in the back end is an unnecessary complication. As Greg said:
I have the GM turbo manifold and it's definitely a tight fit between the crossover and down pipe.
Did you know that a 25' coil of brake line makes an excellent slinky? 
Dang kids will use anything for toys.
Anybody have a part number for the high idle solenoid? Google is coming up with "ACDelco Idle Stop Solenoid, #214-2138," but that clearly isn't the same thing I have. That being said, I've seen at least 2 styles of solenoid used on civilian trucks. Not counting the M998 engines.
@AgDieseler, I know you swapped out yours somewhere in your long thread. Did you find a new one or are you running old parts?
@AgDieseler, I know you swapped out yours somewhere in your long thread. Did you find a new one or are you running old parts?
I’m running an oldie. It’s the same as the current 14066255 version.
David
David
Little bit of progress today. I punched a hole in the valve cover.
Decided that 90* bends were the safest way to snake the glow plug wires through the manifold area.
After getting happy with the fitment, I finally connected the injectors. I made the overflow lines slightly shorter than stock to keep them further from the heat.
After a bunch of test fits, this should be the last time I hafta wrestle the cast iron pig.
Banks did a nice job with their pyrometer kit, including both a thermowell and a short pigtail with nice bolt-based wire junctions. Props to them for that. Yeah, yeah, that's not a real thermowell, but it serves its purpose better than what I pulled out of that hole.
I chose back paint for the second round of ORD parts. Props to them for doing a very nice job with the TIG welding.
Decided that 90* bends were the safest way to snake the glow plug wires through the manifold area.
After getting happy with the fitment, I finally connected the injectors. I made the overflow lines slightly shorter than stock to keep them further from the heat.
After a bunch of test fits, this should be the last time I hafta wrestle the cast iron pig.
Banks did a nice job with their pyrometer kit, including both a thermowell and a short pigtail with nice bolt-based wire junctions. Props to them for that. Yeah, yeah, that's not a real thermowell, but it serves its purpose better than what I pulled out of that hole.
I chose back paint for the second round of ORD parts. Props to them for doing a very nice job with the TIG welding.
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I need to look up some DB2 tech. The lever at the side of the IP isn't returning after I cycle the input (going up, but not returning unless I manipulate it). Which seems like a red flag, but I don't remember which side of the governor that linkage is on.
Since sitting for a couple years this IP has gotten stuck wide open a few times, though I think it was the throttle cable that bound up.
Since sitting for a couple years this IP has gotten stuck wide open a few times, though I think it was the throttle cable that bound up.
New engine mounts. Two questions for people who have run poly inserts (I know @Blue85 did this recently). First, did you bother reattaching the clam shells, or did you simply use the frame mounting bolts to hold the sandwich together?
Second, how much slop can I have before it becomes a problem? The hole in the mount and the hole in the frame bracket appear to match, but the stock-looking bolt is pretty loose. I know it needs some adjustment room, but it seems excessive.
Otherwise it's good to go.
Second, how much slop can I have before it becomes a problem? The hole in the mount and the hole in the frame bracket appear to match, but the stock-looking bolt is pretty loose. I know it needs some adjustment room, but it seems excessive.
Otherwise it's good to go.
@GWeakland620, the low-slung down pipe cuts just outboard of where the starter goes. I *think* this will fit together nicely, but it is definitely more snug than the stock setup. The 13MM bolt holding the bracket to the block now requires a wrench instead of a socket, and I don't have the bulky pipe coupling in there yet.
But at least I know the expensive starter will protect the cheap exhaust pipe if the front driveshaft goes haywire.
But at least I know the expensive starter will protect the cheap exhaust pipe if the front driveshaft goes haywire.
10-4. $100+ is pretty steep for an actuator. I think I'll check mine rather than replacing it preemptively. It's pretty easy to access later if it breaks.
I will admit to running the ArmyTruck many a mile without having said actuator installed.
