Hard to keep track of all the builds here! Bad ass
CK5
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The Great Smaug
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
I put the clam shells in a vice and tack-welded them shut. Theoretically the mounting bolts could take care of it, but it's much easier to line it all up on the bench than in the truck. It's 4 bolts each passing through 4 pieces of metal at once and the bolts might not be long enough. Plus, the thinner that stack is, the easier you can sneak it in place. That's why they come with the big zip ties.
Looks like a good exit angle. How far out does it stick from the block?@GWeakland620, the low-slung down pipe cuts just outboard of where the starter goes. I *think* this will fit together nicely, but it is definitely more snug than the stock setup. The 13MM bolt holding the bracket to the block now requires a wrench instead of a socket, and I don't have the bulky pipe coupling in there yet.
View attachment 261289
But at least I know the expensive starter will protect the cheap exhaust pipe if the front driveshaft goes haywire.
Looks like it's just enough to clear the starter. I can grab a picture after work today.
And while it is angled out from the block, it's parallel to the frame rail in the fore-aft direction. It's just the elevation that's changing, not the distance from center line.
At least, that's how I think it's going to fit.
It hugs the block closely enough to block easy access to that starter brace bolt...
Gotcha. FWIW, my mounts have 6 holes. 3 were riveted shut and the other 3 held bolts. So I don't have a fourth bolt. You can see the rivet remains here:
Thank you, sir.
Steering brace installed today. Baby steps.
Pictures?
No really, I want to see.
No really, I want to see.
And how difficult was it?
Yes. Peanuts.
Catch me after the holiday. It was harder than their instructions indicated, but still a walk in the park. I had to remove and redrill the bumper bracket in addition to drilling the crossmember. Also had to redrill the hole on the crossmember end of the brace, because the bolt would not fit through it.
But I did get lucky on the steering box end of things, and I installed it from inside the empty engine bay. So overall it was good.
I need to look up some DB2 tech. The lever at the side of the IP isn't returning after I cycle the input (going up, but not returning unless I manipulate it). Which seems like a red flag, but I don't remember which side of the governor that linkage is on.
View attachment 261284
Since sitting for a couple years this IP has gotten stuck wide open a few times, though I think it was the throttle cable that bound up.
I know it's not what you want to hear but if that injection pump hasn't been run for a few years I'd have it check out. The reason mine wentry runaway was a seal on the pump shaft dried out and failed because it sat a lot, like a year or more at a time. Yeah it's a few hundred bucks to have done but it's a ton cheaper then having to rebuild an entire engine.
Good progress otherwise
.
I know it's not what you want to hear but if that injection pump hasn't been run for a few years I'd have it check out. The reason mine wentry runaway was a seal on the pump shaft dried out and failed because it sat a lot, like a year or more at a time. Yeah it's a few hundred bucks to have done but it's a ton cheaper then having to rebuild an entire engine.
Good progress otherwise
This truck was driven within the last six months. Not a lot, but a couple of temperature cycles and a dozen miles or so. No issues at that time, but I will be looking at it now. I'm tired of throwing money at distractions, but it's gotta work at the end of the day.
I found this detailed DB2 manual:
http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/Stanadyne DB2 Operation and Instruction Manual 99009.pdf
It explains a lot about the various DB2 configurations, but it does not include the sticky side lever I mentioned earlier. So...eh?
I'll keep looking.
http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/Stanadyne DB2 Operation and Instruction Manual 99009.pdf
It explains a lot about the various DB2 configurations, but it does not include the sticky side lever I mentioned earlier. So...eh?
I'll keep looking.
One UPS box at a time...
Turns out Wilwood uses M10 bubble flare fittings instead of 3/8". So I get to go crazy with the adapters again.
Turns out Wilwood uses M10 bubble flare fittings instead of 3/8". So I get to go crazy with the adapters again.
UPS is busy this week, but we're adding the list faster than we're crossing things off.
Little bit more progress. Turbo is mounted, bolts are tight, and I even put new fiberglass on half of the down pipe. What more could we want?
And the fuel pump has been deleted. I found it interesting that, while the shape and top bolt spec are shared with the SBC, the bottom bolts are metric. So I only have half of the intended amount of shiny bling.
Picked up a new alternator and a bunch of odds & ends. I think I'm just waiting for my intake manifold from @imiceman44. I need to tear down the NV3500 to determine which size of bearing to order.
And the fuel pump has been deleted. I found it interesting that, while the shape and top bolt spec are shared with the SBC, the bottom bolts are metric. So I only have half of the intended amount of shiny bling.
Picked up a new alternator and a bunch of odds & ends. I think I'm just waiting for my intake manifold from @imiceman44. I need to tear down the NV3500 to determine which size of bearing to order.
So where is the oil return on this set up? Mine uses that fuel pump opening.
