To be fair I did reply.
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
So far, including that post, you still have not contributed to my quest for knowledge.
P.S. - "To be fair..." Yet another useless phrase that wastes my time without making anything fairer than it was before you opened your mouth. 
P.S. - "leak n stink power" sounds like something that a skunk would do.
No stink around here, just awesome aromatic diesel perfume.
No stink around here, just awesome aromatic diesel perfume.
Cuz you were beggin for a responseThen why bother opening yer trap?
Well, I would like technical input. But this is not a useless post thread. At least, it wasn't until you two showed up.
I was taught by my older brother who was a GM tech,to loosen the rear main bearing cap bolts before replacing the rear main seal,then after its installed,re-torque them..I guess it helps a bit to let the crank droop ever so slightly to make more room for the seal going in ?..
He told me this when I did a rear main on my '75 2wd K5 probably 30 years ago--he also said I should replace the rear main bearing too,because most of the engines he replaced the rear main seals in had some excess bearing clearances,that helped ruin the original seal..
Up until then I was unaware you can buy individual bearings for most engines,despite having been a parts counterman for years..however,I could not get one ordered in time for the weekend that I had off to use his garage to do the job--so I bought a whole set of mains,for the 250 six ...I still have the rest of them in a drawer!..the rear seal job turned out good,no leaks--but I did lose a chunk off one of my front teeth when a socket fell off the extension and hit it square on..drew blood too!..
I knew then the job would be a success--unless your wounded and bleed during the repairs,its bound to be a failure....
He told me this when I did a rear main on my '75 2wd K5 probably 30 years ago--he also said I should replace the rear main bearing too,because most of the engines he replaced the rear main seals in had some excess bearing clearances,that helped ruin the original seal..
Up until then I was unaware you can buy individual bearings for most engines,despite having been a parts counterman for years..however,I could not get one ordered in time for the weekend that I had off to use his garage to do the job--so I bought a whole set of mains,for the 250 six ...I still have the rest of them in a drawer!..the rear seal job turned out good,no leaks--but I did lose a chunk off one of my front teeth when a socket fell off the extension and hit it square on..drew blood too!..
I knew then the job would be a success--unless your wounded and bleed during the repairs,its bound to be a failure..
..
I was taught by my older brother who was a GM tech,to loosen the rear main bearing cap bolts before replacing the rear main seal,then after its installed,re-torque them..I guess it helps a bit to let the crank droop ever so slightly to make more room for the seal going in ?..
He told me this when I did a rear main on my '75 2wd K5 probably 30 years ago--he also said I should replace the rear main bearing too,because most of the engines he replaced the rear main seals in had some excess bearing clearances,that helped ruin the original seal..
Up until then I was unaware you can buy individual bearings for most engines,despite having been a parts counterman for years..however,I could not get one ordered in time for the weekend that I had off to use his garage to do the job--so I bought a whole set of mains,for the 250 six ...I still have the rest of them in a drawer!..the rear seal job turned out good,no leaks--but I did lose a chunk off one of my front teeth when a socket fell off the extension and hit it square on..drew blood too!..
I knew then the job would be a success--unless your wounded and bleed during the repairs,its bound to be a failure..
On the 6.2 engines the rear main bearing and the rear main seal share the same cap. I can't access the seal without also removing the bearing.
Update for today: Ground down the starter nose so it wouldn't interfere with the flywheel and mounted it up. Cranked it over to make sure it worked (and to prime the oil system after the resealing job). It surprised me by briefly firing. Didn't know that a 6.2 was capable of firing with the glow plugs disabled. 
I replaced the failed GP relay and did a real cranking, and it fired right up. Immediately. In a way that tired ol' Big Blue has never done. It's hard to describe, but this thing has always run noticeably stronger than Blue. Fast starts, faster revving, it just doesn't act as worn-out as Blue.
I then fired up the Suburban. 'Twas good to hear it fire up. It also starts and runs more nicely than Blue does, but not quite like the Grendel does. Not sure if they have younger injectors or better compression or what, but both of these engines are noticeably different (and always have been).
I replaced the failed GP relay and did a real cranking, and it fired right up. Immediately. In a way that tired ol' Big Blue has never done. It's hard to describe, but this thing has always run noticeably stronger than Blue. Fast starts, faster revving, it just doesn't act as worn-out as Blue.
I then fired up the Suburban. 'Twas good to hear it fire up. It also starts and runs more nicely than Blue does, but not quite like the Grendel does. Not sure if they have younger injectors or better compression or what, but both of these engines are noticeably different (and always have been).
Pics of them running side-by-side. 
Aaaaaand...I even shot a video of them running.
This is what the bare flywheel looks like in the dark.
This is what the bare flywheel looks like in the dark.
Glad to see you get back on this thing. Rear main seal held up just fine I'm hoping!
Suburban still sitting with a dead trans?
Suburban still sitting with a dead trans?
Yeah, I haven't touched the trucks very many times this year. Hoping to change that. I don't know about the rear main seal yet. It was dry until today, and I only ran the truck for 10 minutes or so. I'm confident that I don't have a gushing leak, but beyond that it will take some time to evaluate it. Oil light stayed off once the engine started, and I didn't observe any strange behavior.
I guess I forgot to mention that I replaced the leaky cam plug a few weeks ago. That was ridiculously unfun. I must have done it the wrong way. However, since the flywheel doesn't have holes stamped into it like the flex plate does, it's kinda hard for me to see if it actually worked.
Suburban is still dead. Has been off the road since August (nearly a year
). Still fires right up and runs like a champ. Both of these rigs do. It's just (automatic) tranny problems that frustrate me.
Next up I need to figure out a way to get the tranny positioned. The truck sits atop a pile of loose sand that isn't flat. I can flatten it out, but it's not going to be anything like a good concrete floor. Plywood only goes so far, and I have a thought that the tranny is going to conspire with gravity to try to kill me.
The good news is that getting into the ugly phase means that I'm getting closer to actually being able to drive it.
The good news is that getting into the ugly phase means that I'm getting closer to actually being able to drive it.
Flat plate on a jack. A ratchet strap from the jack to the front axle and a ratchet strap to the rear axle. Another ratchet strap holding the trans on.
I did a turbo 400 in a driveway like that.
Jack sunk down 2" as soon as you put weight on it
I did a turbo 400 in a driveway like that.
Jack sunk down 2" as soon as you put weight on it
Nicely done. Big step closer to driving it.
Stabbing a trans is easy compared to what you've been doing, and I endorse the 'many ratchet straps make safe work' method.
David
Stabbing a trans is easy compared to what you've been doing, and I endorse the 'many ratchet straps make safe work' method.
David
I doubt you have mosquitos.. Glad you have both going now, been far to long. Keep that go getter additude and I'll bring you out west for some prospectin. Or.. Whatever..
I'm happy to see this activity in your threads.
