CK5
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The Green Grendel

For what it's worth I never use a clutch alignment tool when I put them together. I always eyeball it and they go together alright

How close is close enough? This is no more than 3/16" off at very worst. The hub in the center of the clutch has a noticeable amount of slop (due to the springs), so I'd think it was fine. But I'm running out of enthusiasm for just pushing and wiggling and hoping it works out. :dunno:
 
His bell has to go on with the trans due to being a modified 465 bell in an NV4500 otherwise that'd be the way to go

If I had the bell separate I'd set up the clutch linkage and release the clutch while I was wiggling. Eliminate one piece of the puzzle. :)
 
FWIW, I can easily get the tranny to engage the clutch splines, it's getting the front of the shaft into the pilot bearing that's presenting problems.

Tech question. I have two clutch sets for this engine. One includes a pilot bearing, one does not. Why? Is the bearing unimportant?
 
That's what I would prefer to do, but how can I access the bolts with the tranny already attached to the bell? The clutch fork hole is much too small. :dunno:
Is this on a dirt floor or can you roll the jack back and forth?
 
FWIW, I can easily get the tranny to engage the clutch splines, it's getting the front of the shaft into the pilot bearing that's presenting problems.

Tech question. I have two clutch sets for this engine. One includes a pilot bearing, one does not. Why? Is the bearing unimportant?
Some don't come in the kit
 
How close is close enough? This is no more than 3/16" off at very worst. The hub in the center of the clutch has a noticeable amount of slop (due to the springs), so I'd think it was fine. But I'm running out of enthusiasm for just pushing and wiggling and hoping it works out. :dunno:

Pushing wiggling on a heavy trans like a 4500 sucks I've been there before. I usually get them pretty well spot on. I just barely snug up the pressure plate bolts with my fingers and a socket then use a large punch to slide the clutch disc around until it's perfectly centered over the pilot bearing.

May not work for everyone but I've done a ton of them that way.
 
His bell has to go on with the trans due to being a modified 465 bell in an NV4500 otherwise that'd be the way to go
I've got the same internally bolted. Usually I get it lined up, pull it back and tighten, push forward
 
Is this on a dirt floor or can you roll the jack back and forth?

Sandbox. Jack sits on plywood, but it's not flat and somehow the sand gets everywhere despite the wood. The jack also is constrained by sitting between the legs of the engine hoist. With effort I can slide it some directions but it's not really free motion.
 
Pushing wiggling on a heavy trans like a 4500 sucks I've been there before. I usually get them pretty well spot on. I just barely snug up the pressure plate bolts with my fingers and a socket then use a large punch to slide the clutch disc around until it's perfectly centered over the pilot bearing.

May not work for everyone but I've done a ton of them that way.

That's pretty much what I'm doing with the plastic tool. Is there another way to align the clutch?
 
Hence why I asked about the floor. Ive only used this method on a flat surface. This can be patience trying.

Maybe @82355 has some advice...

Been thinking...if you install the bell housing and then tighten up the pressure plate...that doesn't really solve anything. Does it? The issue is aligning the gearbox, not the bell housing. You still wind up tightening the bolts before the gearbox goes in. Or am I missing something? :dunno:
 
More about getting the angle of the jack just so it can go in or out. But thats on concrete. Once lined up you can tighten the PP, the roll it forward to tighten it.
2 extra hands helps a lot too
 
I still have no advice here. But I know you'll get it. Youz a smart man.

I think if I was smart I would have already given up on this hobby. I can buy a decent rig that already runs for fewer dollars and much less headache. I think the continuing on in the hobby is proof that we're all crazy around here.
 
P.S. - I stopped tonight when I started taking the pressure plate bolts off. Turns out that my small ratchet won't easily turn them, and I broke my big ratchet a few days ago. So now I hafta get that replaced.

This would be an entirely different hobby in a concrete-floored garage with a bench full of well organized, quality tools. I'm doing this tranny mostly as practice for building the camping rig. I'm mostly getting convinced that I should hire a shop to set the tranny in place. Doing this solo is getting discouraging. :1zhelp:
 
P.S. - I stopped tonight when I started taking the pressure plate bolts off. Turns out that my small ratchet won't easily turn them, and I broke my big ratchet a few days ago. So now I hafta get that replaced.

This would be an entirely different hobby in a concrete-floored garage with a bench full of well organized, quality tools. I'm doing this tranny mostly as practice for building the camping rig. I'm mostly getting convinced that I should hire a shop to set the tranny in place. Doing this solo is getting discouraging. :1zhelp:
Sorry Ethan, sometimes these suck
 
More about getting the angle of the jack just so it can go in or out. But thats on concrete. Once lined up you can tighten the PP, the roll it forward to tighten it.
2 extra hands helps a lot too

Yeah, I have an arc going up to the hoist. Not moving horizontally. Nor can the jack move horizontally, the floor isn't anywhere near being able to do that. So far this has just been muscling it around and hoping it lines up somehow. Not a great strategy, I freely admit.
 
Did you grease the splines and snout of the input shaft?

I usually slam them in by hand. The jack is just there to help.

One hand turning the output shaft, while using the other to move it around. You do have it in gear right?

Martin
 

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