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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
I saw one at oreillys yesterday.Not endorsed.
Do you have any illuminated sources for said part?
Well, I can head in there and describe my plight, but my success rate when I'm depending on counter clerks is downright dismal.
Try S712 pigtail
Today I'm thinking about the beg/borrow/steal nature of this build. It occurred to me that my selling of surplus parts has offset the cost of this build quite a bit. I decided to write it out in rough chronological order (order of purchases, not sales).
-$1000 Purchase price
-$200 3/4-ton axle set
+$125 sold the empty 14BFF housing for a trailer project (kept the 3.73 gears)
+$85 (net) sold the 4.10 gears to @Phil513
+$75 front axle sale to @78K30 is pending (kept the outers for the Suburban)
+$40 for two of the original 16.5" wheels that came with the truck (left over from the original 14BFF swap)
+$150 for the other two 16.5" wheels and the second 16.5" set that came with the axles.
I kept the hub caps, they'll wind up on the Suburban
-$200 for my set of decent roller tires & wheels
+$80 when I finally sold the rollers (several years later)
-$60 for a set of 16" rims & hub caps
-$50 for a set of 16" wheels & shot tires
Trade two shot tires & wheels for two medium-quality 285/75R16 tires & wheels
-$50 for brand new 245/75R16 spare on 6-lug rim, remount on one spare 8-lug rim
Gave 6-lug rim to my brother for his truck
+$85 for selling the remaining 5 rims
-$200 and a set of spare rims for the nice tires on new van rims (what's on there now)
-$100 for the set of cloth seats from extended cab GMT400 truck
The rear seat wasn't a good fit for a K5, so I gave it to my brother to use as a couch.
-$75 for NP241
-$450 and the NP241 for the freshened up front axle & posi unit and a pile of spare parts. Man, I forgot how much shipping ran, @big dan only got $250 of that money.
-$375 for Detroit Locker and rear disc brackets (shipped from @thatK30guy)
When the time comes I do have all of the parts for a rear disc conversion, excepting the adjustable prop valve.
-$275 for bell housing (shipped from CK5 member). I do wish I had been more patient looking for this locally at a lower price.
-$120 for flywheel & clutch set (shipped from CK5 member)
-$20 for the clutch pedal setup (Junkyard)
-$200 for the NV4500 & accessories (local shop)
+$125 for NV4500 bell housing and BW transfer case
+$50 for NV4500 drive shaft (pending-@78K30)
+$25 for double cardan from NP241 (pending-@78K30)
+$200 for TH400 sold to Greg
+$200 for the cracked mud tires that came on the truck (kept the CUCV rims)
So as I see it I have $1000 into purchasing the vehicle and $1135 into rebuilding it. $1100 of which were just the Detroit, Front Axle, and Bell Housing (all of which, I would point out, were shipped long distances). The cheaper items have almost perfectly balanced out. I also have ~$250 in gaskets/fluids/PartsStoreStuff, some of which would fit into the routine maintenance category.
And at some future point I'll probably sell off the front 10-bolt and my last few spare rims.
The part that amazes me is how many wheels & tires have rolled around this truck without me ever actually buying or mounting any rubber, except the one spare that I moved from a 6-lug wheel to an 8-lug wheel. It's also amusing that some parts transactions have netted me money (like parting out the axle set 7 different ways or selling the unneeded NV4500 accessories), but others have definitely been money losers (like selling my $200 roller tires for $80).
-$1000 Purchase price
-$200 3/4-ton axle set
+$125 sold the empty 14BFF housing for a trailer project (kept the 3.73 gears)
+$85 (net) sold the 4.10 gears to @Phil513
+$75 front axle sale to @78K30 is pending (kept the outers for the Suburban)
+$40 for two of the original 16.5" wheels that came with the truck (left over from the original 14BFF swap)
+$150 for the other two 16.5" wheels and the second 16.5" set that came with the axles.
I kept the hub caps, they'll wind up on the Suburban
-$200 for my set of decent roller tires & wheels
+$80 when I finally sold the rollers (several years later)
-$60 for a set of 16" rims & hub caps
-$50 for a set of 16" wheels & shot tires
Trade two shot tires & wheels for two medium-quality 285/75R16 tires & wheels
-$50 for brand new 245/75R16 spare on 6-lug rim, remount on one spare 8-lug rim
Gave 6-lug rim to my brother for his truck
+$85 for selling the remaining 5 rims
-$200 and a set of spare rims for the nice tires on new van rims (what's on there now)
-$100 for the set of cloth seats from extended cab GMT400 truck
The rear seat wasn't a good fit for a K5, so I gave it to my brother to use as a couch.
-$75 for NP241
-$450 and the NP241 for the freshened up front axle & posi unit and a pile of spare parts. Man, I forgot how much shipping ran, @big dan only got $250 of that money.
-$375 for Detroit Locker and rear disc brackets (shipped from @thatK30guy)
When the time comes I do have all of the parts for a rear disc conversion, excepting the adjustable prop valve.
-$275 for bell housing (shipped from CK5 member). I do wish I had been more patient looking for this locally at a lower price.
-$120 for flywheel & clutch set (shipped from CK5 member)
-$20 for the clutch pedal setup (Junkyard)
-$200 for the NV4500 & accessories (local shop)
+$125 for NV4500 bell housing and BW transfer case
+$50 for NV4500 drive shaft (pending-@78K30)
+$25 for double cardan from NP241 (pending-@78K30)
+$200 for TH400 sold to Greg
+$200 for the cracked mud tires that came on the truck (kept the CUCV rims)
So as I see it I have $1000 into purchasing the vehicle and $1135 into rebuilding it. $1100 of which were just the Detroit, Front Axle, and Bell Housing (all of which, I would point out, were shipped long distances). The cheaper items have almost perfectly balanced out. I also have ~$250 in gaskets/fluids/PartsStoreStuff, some of which would fit into the routine maintenance category.
And at some future point I'll probably sell off the front 10-bolt and my last few spare rims.
The part that amazes me is how many wheels & tires have rolled around this truck without me ever actually buying or mounting any rubber, except the one spare that I moved from a 6-lug wheel to an 8-lug wheel. It's also amusing that some parts transactions have netted me money (like parting out the axle set 7 different ways or selling the unneeded NV4500 accessories), but others have definitely been money losers (like selling my $200 roller tires for $80).
Come to think of it, this truck has seen more wheeling and dealing than Big Blue has (parts-wise, not offroad-wise). 
You just HAD to go there didn't you... lol I don't like adding up what mine has cost me! Less than a new vehicle though...
Nope. No success. I walked into there looking for the items on my list. U-joint clips they do not stock (but they happened to find some lying on a back shelf) They couldn't find the GP solenoid in their parts catalog (
), though they did eventually find something similar. I think it might work, but I will be returning it if the mounting flange is wrong. Their selection of manual transmission fluid consisted of one lonely bottle of generic synchromesh. They don't carry GL-4 transmission fluid of any type. They were able to find a reverse switch. But no connector, neither behind the counter nor out in the small generic connector section.They did have glue for my rearview mirror, so the trip wasn't a complete bust. But pretty close to it.
Well, I can head in there and describe my plight, but my success rate when I'm depending on counter clerks is downright dismal.
I rest my case.
You can't get truck parts at the grocery store... Wow!Nope. No success. I walked into there looking for the items on my list. U-joint clips they do not stock (but they happened to find some lying on a back shelf) They couldn't find the GP solenoid in their parts catalog (
They did have glue for my rearview mirror, so the trip wasn't a complete bust. But pretty close to it.
I rest my case.
I'm happy enough with the ~$2500 I have into mine, especially since it's largely tied up in the locker/positraction combo. If I get bored I could probably flip the truck for more than I have into it, even with rusty floor pan.
The deeper you get into your build the harder it gets to recover any of the invested dollars.
Yeah definitely hard to get your money back! My crawler is proving that. With my current build it's different though. I'm planning on keeping it for a while so I don't mind dumping some $$$ into it. I priced out a new truck the other day and I lost all interest when it hit 50k. That's ridiculous! I didn't even add a bunch of goodies. If I have 15k into my 40 year old truck that's ok.I'm happy enough with the ~$2500 I have into mine, especially since it's largely tied up in the locker/positraction combo. If I get bored I could probably flip the truck for more than I have into it, even with rusty floor pan.
The deeper you get into your build the harder it gets to recover any of the invested dollars.
What's different between that connector and a 2 pin weatherpack? I've got a bunch of those on the service truck.
Edit- link added
http://www.partsgeek.com/2fyqfs8-dodge-ram-3500-back-up-light-switch-connector.html
Edit- link added
http://www.partsgeek.com/2fyqfs8-dodge-ram-3500-back-up-light-switch-connector.html
The one type of MT fluid that the local Oreilly's stocks is a Valvoline Synchromesh. It is claiming compatability with both the 12345349 and the required 12346190 standards (and a host of others, too). I was under the impression (from the writeup I included earlier) that GL-4 and GL-5 oils have different bonding strengths. As in, GL-5 bonds much more strongly to gears than GL-4 does, which is why it is not recommended for use with brass synchros (like my NV4500 has). How can one oil fill both roles?
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You should post up your tag picture here. I thought it was a cool picture.
When I look up the plate number in the state database of expiration dates, I get an amusing result (Historic MV plates do not have have annual registration fees, so they never expire).
I don't know why, but I think that looks so cool. Too many people run these with "antique" tags on them. Nice works on keeping it cool.
So what happens after the year 3999....?When I look up the plate number in the state database of expiration dates, I get an amusing result (Historic MV plates do not have have annual registration fees, so they never expire).
View attachment 220429
Turns out that the Suburban will expire on the same date. I should start budgeting now for when that finally happens. 
WI has several special categories that this old beater rig could fit into. Hobbiest, collector, farm truck, etc. I like the MV plate, it's a nice tribute to the rig's heritage. Especially since it looks like any other K5 blazer. Hardly anyone notices when an M1009 rolls by, it's not like driving an M35a1 around.
5 or 6 years ago I found one of these trucks with the plate "10090MV" on it. WI says you can't personalize these plates, so it sounds like an extremely lucky coincidence for an M1009 to have. It also tells me that few of these plates have been issued, assuming they're in sequential order.
So...yeah, the Historic MV plate is cool. It's also the cheapest plate that WI offers, so double-win for a zero-dollar build!
