You need a bigger hammer
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
As a mechanic, you really learn a lot about the crappy things that break a lot....
Martin
Using a press makes doing u-joints a much longer process.
Martin
Martin
You're welcome for the 205 shifter boot inspiration 
Also the 208 and the NV4500 should be identical pigtails. You might have some crud inside the plug on the trans preventing it for going in all the way. Also it only goes in one way so make sure the clip on the pigtail lines up with the tab on the switch.
Also the 208 and the NV4500 should be identical pigtails. You might have some crud inside the plug on the trans preventing it for going in all the way. Also it only goes in one way so make sure the clip on the pigtail lines up with the tab on the switch.
You're welcome for the 205 shifter boot inspiration
Also the 208 and the NV4500 should be identical pigtails. You might have some crud inside the plug on the trans preventing it for going in all the way. Also it only goes in one way so make sure the clip on the pigtail lines up with the tab on the switch.
Cool, that's what I was originally thinking. I'll try it again.
CK5 has failed me again. I went out to bleed the clutch yet again, and the pedal continued acting exactly like before. But while fiddling back and forth I somehow managed to bend the master cylinder input rod.
I pulled the M/C off and grabbed my other spare one and installed it. I was immediately reminded that the pedal can touch the floor (it has been only going half-way down). I bled the new setup and, once again, I could only push the pedal half-way down. This brings me back to my idea from weeks ago...the slave cylinder is bottoming out, I'm not seeing an air bubble at all. I simply don't have the S/C range to disengage the clutch, and that is why I get such little pedal travel and so little clutch disengagement.
So to test this I inserted a spacer between the rod and the clutch linkage (in this case, I grabbed a 12MM 1/4" drive socket, as it gave me 1/2" or so of spacer and also included a cup to keep it in place). Instantly and immediately...the clutch now works exactly like it should. The pedal now travels a good 2-3" closer to the floor, and I can select any gear with butter-like ease.
I feel vindicated, but I am now in need of a long-term solution. Maybe weld a piece of bolt stock onto the rod as an extension?
My 220V Mig welder mocks me and my 110V power feed.
I pulled the M/C off and grabbed my other spare one and installed it. I was immediately reminded that the pedal can touch the floor (it has been only going half-way down). I bled the new setup and, once again, I could only push the pedal half-way down. This brings me back to my idea from weeks ago...the slave cylinder is bottoming out, I'm not seeing an air bubble at all. I simply don't have the S/C range to disengage the clutch, and that is why I get such little pedal travel and so little clutch disengagement.
So to test this I inserted a spacer between the rod and the clutch linkage (in this case, I grabbed a 12MM 1/4" drive socket, as it gave me 1/2" or so of spacer and also included a cup to keep it in place). Instantly and immediately...the clutch now works exactly like it should. The pedal now travels a good 2-3" closer to the floor, and I can select any gear with butter-like ease.
I feel vindicated, but I am now in need of a long-term solution. Maybe weld a piece of bolt stock onto the rod as an extension?
My 220V Mig welder mocks me and my 110V power feed.
I didn't replace the pivot ball inside the bell housing. It may have had some wear on it, but it matched the others that I checked it against. I did replace the arm, and possibly the new arm doesn't have the proper amount of bend to it. I have 2 other spare arms lying around with different amounts of offset, so they aren't all the same. But the new one did match the one that I took out of this bell housing. 
Now, as to my failing for the day... @78K30, I was not able to find my micrometer for measuring the cap size. Don't remember if it's loaned out or if it's hiding in some box. 
I can give this unscientific description, though.
From the perspective of the camera, there is no in-and-out play. It's snug against the tabs in that regard. But it can go up and down, translating or rotating in the yoke. Neither is a good idea.
Here is the other side. I stopped short of tightening the 4th bolt when it became obvious that it wasn't going to get snug.
I can give this unscientific description, though.
From the perspective of the camera, there is no in-and-out play. It's snug against the tabs in that regard. But it can go up and down, translating or rotating in the yoke. Neither is a good idea.
Here is the other side. I stopped short of tightening the 4th bolt when it became obvious that it wasn't going to get snug.
Very cool with the clutch!
In the video i'd say your yoke is worn out...i had to replace one on my 02 Duramax because the cups were spinning.
In the video i'd say your yoke is worn out...i had to replace one on my 02 Duramax because the cups were spinning.
Instead of a spacer, can you just mount the slave cylinder on the other side of the mounting flange?
I cut up some thin pieces of lead-steel composite gasket and shimmed it to be properly snug (but not too tight). Drove it around the yard again and suddenly I'm starting to like this truck. I do like me a stick shift, even if I still don't have a stick for it.
I rowed through R, 1,2, and a little bit of 3rd gear, before parking it and going to get some trans. lube from town. I bought 2 quarts planning on topping it off, but after dumping both in, my pinkie still can't reach the lube level. This case is more dry than I had thought.
I'll be getting more on the way home tomorrow.Same for the NP208, it took 4.5 quarts before it was full.
The rear end now skids around like a Detroit should.
Long term, I expect the gasket to slowly break into pieces, so I will hafta address the yoke issue eventually. But for now I'm within a few quarts of a full-blown test drive.
I wish. The body of the cylinder is significantly larger than the hole in the flange.
Really good idea, though. I hadn't thought of doing that. I think that amount of offset would be within the correct range.
I pulled out the reverse switch. You guys are right, it is the same connector as the other one. What fooled me is is that a piece of the previous connector is wedged in there. So that explains why mine would go 1/2-way in and then stop. Neither O'reillys or Autozone had a new switch in stock, so I'll either be waiting or I might just skip fixing the reverse lights for now (I could also use the old switch with a new connector if I removed a small amount of the plastic sheath on one side). Cold weather is coming up fast, it's supposed to be single digits in a few days.
Next up...diagnosing why the heater fan doesn't blow.
Next up...diagnosing why the heater fan doesn't blow.
What I did on my F150 was wire a light up rocker switch on the shifter that parallels the factory trans switch. So either the trans could control the reverse lights or I could with the switch. Could always do that for right now until you get the trans one in place.
Once that hump goes on, I won't have so much motivation to take it back off. If I don't wire it up now, it may not ever happen. A manual switch wouldn't be so bad. But again, the lights do not currently work, and it's a low enough priority that cold weather may well shut it down.
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Once that hump goes on, I won't have so much motivation to take it back off. If I don't wire it up now, it may not ever happen. A manual switch wouldn't be so bad. But again, the lights do not currently work, and it's a low enough priority that cold weather may well shut it down.
I don't blame you, FWIW I did all mine without ever pulling the carpet out. I was able to reach up around the transmission to do it. But I've got long arms which helps
Duly noted. I think I'll repair the torn T-case wires and button it up. I'm eager to see how well my hacked up shifting boot works.
Today's progress:
Diagnosed and repaired a burned-up contact on the blower fan switch. The fan now blows, though it had a hideous bearing squeal for the first couple minutes. It moves much more air than Big Blue's HVAC system, so that's another vote in favor of putting some modern blowers in the fleet.
Cleaned out all the tools, parts, bolts, and general junk in the front seating area (did the rear last week). It now looks like a vehicle instead of a storage unit.
Installed seat belts & the stock vinyl passenger-side bucket seat. It sits noticeably taller than the cloth seat on the driver's side.
Finished oiling the tranny. GM's NV4500 spec says 4 quarts from empty to full. It took exactly 4 quarts, so it was much, much dryer than I had thought. I poured a 5th quart through the reverse switch hole as I have read good things about overfilling this tranny.
Repaired the NP208 wiring. Turns out that the connector and/or switch are flaky, so it only mostly works.
Installed trans tunnel and reattached NP208 shifter.
Diagnosed and repaired a burned-up contact on the blower fan switch. The fan now blows, though it had a hideous bearing squeal for the first couple minutes. It moves much more air than Big Blue's HVAC system, so that's another vote in favor of putting some modern blowers in the fleet.
Cleaned out all the tools, parts, bolts, and general junk in the front seating area (did the rear last week). It now looks like a vehicle instead of a storage unit.
Installed seat belts & the stock vinyl passenger-side bucket seat. It sits noticeably taller than the cloth seat on the driver's side.
Finished oiling the tranny. GM's NV4500 spec says 4 quarts from empty to full. It took exactly 4 quarts, so it was much, much dryer than I had thought.
I poured a 5th quart through the reverse switch hole as I have read good things about overfilling this tranny.Repaired the NP208 wiring. Turns out that the connector and/or switch are flaky, so it only mostly works.
Installed trans tunnel and reattached NP208 shifter.
Today's progress:
Diagnosed and repaired a burned-up contact on the blower fan switch. The fan now blows, though it had a hideous bearing squeal for the first couple minutes. It moves much more air than Big Blue's HVAC system, so that's another vote in favor of putting some modern blowers in the fleet.
Cleaned out all the tools, parts, bolts, and general junk in the front seating area (did the rear last week). It now looks like a vehicle instead of a storage unit.
Installed seat belts & the stock vinyl passenger-side bucket seat. It sits noticeably taller than the cloth seat on the driver's side.
Finished oiling the tranny. GM's NV4500 spec says 4 quarts from empty to full. It took exactly 4 quarts, so it was much, much dryer than I had thought.
Repaired the NP208 wiring. Turns out that the connector and/or switch are flaky, so it only mostly works.
Installed trans tunnel and reattached NP208 shifter.
When's the full fluid test drive happen?
And then I turned the key and drove it down the street for a test drive. I rowed through all the gears and took it up to what I estimate as 45MPH (speedo cable is still broken). Gear noises are all gone, the entire drive train does exactly what it should. 
I clicked the Detroit a couple times (and also squealed the tires pretty badly once). It is simultaneously not as big a deal as I had thought and also something that will redefine my driving style to avoid hard U-turns. I did slightly grind going into 3rd and 4th, but that could well have been user error combined with 20* temperatures. 5th shifted perfectly, so that's a nice improvement.
The holey exhaust is loud. The steering is just a touch loose. The brakes locked up unevenly and too suddenly. And it sure felt like I ran out of gears too quickly. It's true that this thing has more get-up-and-go than Big Blue ever has, but I shouldn't be able to use 3rd gear while crawling up the driveway.
The sun was long down when I did this tonight, so I couldn't see things well, and the cab started getting smoky. I couldn't tell if I was just burning off some of the spilled oil that is all over this rig, or if I was catching on fire. So I turned back after 1/2 a mile and let it idle in the yard while I looked it over. No fire, and I didn't spot any new issues or any serious leaks. I do still have a leaking injector return line (which is definitely contributing to the smoke, as it dumps onto the exhaust manifold). I have a new set of braided return lines that I can install to get rid of that problem.
I'll take her out for a longer drive during the daylight tomorrow. So far I'm pretty pleased with it. It could pass as a truck now instead of an iron carcass.
I rowed through all the gears and took it up to what I estimate as 45MPH (speedo cable is still broken). Gear noises are all gone, the entire drive train does exactly what it should. I clicked the Detroit a couple times (and also squealed the tires pretty badly once). It is simultaneously not as big a deal as I had thought and also something that will redefine my driving style to avoid hard U-turns. I did slightly grind going into 3rd and 4th, but that could well have been user error combined with 20* temperatures. 5th shifted perfectly, so that's a nice improvement.The holey exhaust is loud. The steering is just a touch loose. The brakes locked up unevenly and too suddenly. And it sure felt like I ran out of gears too quickly. It's true that this thing has more get-up-and-go than Big Blue ever has, but I shouldn't be able to use 3rd gear while crawling up the driveway.
The sun was long down when I did this tonight, so I couldn't see things well, and the cab started getting smoky. I couldn't tell if I was just burning off some of the spilled oil that is all over this rig, or if I was catching on fire. So I turned back after 1/2 a mile and let it idle in the yard while I looked it over. No fire, and I didn't spot any new issues or any serious leaks. I do still have a leaking injector return line (which is definitely contributing to the smoke, as it dumps onto the exhaust manifold). I have a new set of braided return lines that I can install to get rid of that problem.
I'll take her out for a longer drive during the daylight tomorrow. So far I'm pretty pleased with it. It could pass as a truck now instead of an iron carcass.
