Thanks!
It does look sorta weird with two different window handles. Definitely wants a truck gate. No reason to reach inside for the handle.
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Thanks!
It does look sorta weird with two different window handles. Definitely wants a truck gate. No reason to reach inside for the handle.
Granted, all my experience was with the pickups but I believe so. Every CUCV I ever saw had the same set of keys.
It never occurred to me that CUCV’s would all be Keyed the same. But it makes sense
I was just asking if they had a lock cylinder at the rear like the normal civilian trucks do. Mine has a bare hole where the P.O. welded a 3/8" socket so the window opens by inserting a ratchet.
At least, that's how I used to open the window...
They did get unique keys in the form of chains & padlocks run through the steering wheel.
But aside from that they are remarkably easy to steal.
They also use the same standard "B" door blank for all locks. So it is possible to buy a Chevy of this era with just one key instead of two.
Case in point, here is my (now retired) key:
Here is what the internet will sell you for 3 dollars or so.
Their key is even better than my old and worn one! The bumps are much more crisp.
Yeah...security is not a strong suit of these rigs. Even the civilian ignitions aren't very tight after 30 years...
@JoshHefnerX asked, so I figure I should give better instructions for the truck topper door conversion. It really is as simple as it looks. I unscrewed the door from a truck topper of suitable size. Traced the outline onto the old topper and cut away the pieces of the window track that were interfering with the outline. Be sure to trace the inner outline so you leave a fiberglass flange behind (or you won't have anything to screw into). Then I lined it with silicone and screwed it into place. I need to add some weatherstripping at the bottom to close the gap left by the geometry mismatch between the stock topper and tailgate. But so far it has been through several small rainstorms with no leakage. And I sure couldn't say that about the old leaky crank-up window with its ancient weatherstripping.
It's worth noting that the door came with a bent aluminum backing bar that I did not wind up using. On the truck topper this added rigidity to the fiberglass. But the K5 topper is much thicker and more rigid than the flimsy truck topper that I parted out. And fitting the bar in there would have required me to cut away at some reinforcing webs. So I opted to keep the fiberglass strength and pitch the original backing bar. So far it appears to be more sturdy than your average truck topper. It's also true that a couple inches forward of the window the K5 topper has a steel roll bar in addition to the thickly reinforced fiberglass. This thing makes truck toppers blush.
It's worth noting that the door came with a bent aluminum backing bar that I did not wind up using. On the truck topper this added rigidity to the fiberglass. But the K5 topper is much thicker and more rigid than the flimsy truck topper that I parted out. And fitting the bar in there would have required me to cut away at some reinforcing webs. So I opted to keep the fiberglass strength and pitch the original backing bar. So far it appears to be more sturdy than your average truck topper. It's also true that a couple inches forward of the window the K5 topper has a steel roll bar in addition to the thickly reinforced fiberglass. This thing makes truck toppers blush.
It can't be worse than some of the rear mains I've pulled out that still somehow didn't leak I'd say you're golden
James, you do know that this thing still has a tiny drip at the rear main, right?
Years ago I hired a shop to do the rear main on Big Blue. It had a slight drip before the job and a slight drip afterwards.
At that point I didn't know to look for cracking in the main webs,but neither I nor the mechanic noticed anything.
But we're 2 for 2 when it comes to rear main seals not quite working!
@JoshHefnerX, here are some pictures of the inside. The window track isn't straight, but my cut line is. So the two fiberglass surfaces diverge toward the bottom.
Straight cut made with a 7" abrasive disc. It just looks curved because of the converging angle. The window track is deepest near that rivet (then it gets shallow again as it goes up). In this case I had to cut the longitudinal bulkhead away to make room for the pneumatic cylinder. I could have cut around the cylinder mount instead of making the straight cut, but I thought it would be odd having pieces of the old topper skin inside of the new window. You can catch a glimpse of the steel roll bar peeking out of the opening.
I threw a few lines on this picture to indicate the track contour. It's a lot funkier than I realized.
I did find a mouse nest in this corner. And this is the piece of window framing that snagged on the plastic bump stop (still removed).
Here you can see the gap between the curves at the top. Much closer than at the bottom, but the new radius is smaller than the old one, and the window width is a little wider.
Straight cut made with a 7" abrasive disc. It just looks curved because of the converging angle. The window track is deepest near that rivet (then it gets shallow again as it goes up). In this case I had to cut the longitudinal bulkhead away to make room for the pneumatic cylinder. I could have cut around the cylinder mount instead of making the straight cut, but I thought it would be odd having pieces of the old topper skin inside of the new window. You can catch a glimpse of the steel roll bar peeking out of the opening.
I threw a few lines on this picture to indicate the track contour. It's a lot funkier than I realized.
I did find a mouse nest in this corner. And this is the piece of window framing that snagged on the plastic bump stop (still removed).
Here you can see the gap between the curves at the top. Much closer than at the bottom, but the new radius is smaller than the old one, and the window width is a little wider.
Good visuals, thanks for the pics. Seriously hating that roll up glass, not sure why the factory did that.
Me neither, man.
It sure seems ridiculous, especially seeing how they got it right on the 67-72 K5s and Suburbans.
Alright. The K5 is running. Almost everything has been fixed. Exceptions are the speedometer (shredded both gears in the T-case). It's the 41/15 Yellow/Grey gear combination, and the speedo was dead on with this ratio. Still not sure how that's possible, given the regearing. 
But I don't feel like pulling the T-case apart. And if I've run out of desire to fix it, now is a great time to sell it (no, I'm still not looking forward to it).
Also haven't fixed the E-brake (which I never intended to fix), backup lights, or the cracked mirror. Other stuff all works.
Next step is writing up an advert. So far I have not been any good at selling vehicles, so I'll take whatever input you guys have. I think I'll throw it on Ebay first for crazy money to see if it gets any bites. And then post a real ad up after that goes nowhere. I like the Detroit, and I don't think it adds much to the resale value, so I've been planning on pulling that out for the next project. Same for the $100 Tinytach (I'd just put the old voltmeter back in that hole).
Here are my rough thoughts on what an ad should look like. Too wordy? 
----
1986 Chevrolet M1009 (D10 Military Blazer)
Odometer reads 47,000 miles
6.2L diesel engine
NV4500 manual transmission
NP208 transfer case
3.73 axle gears
GM 3/4-ton 10-bolt front axle with Eaton Posi.
GM 1-ton 14-bolt full floating rear axle with Detroit Locker.
Previous owners claimed to have completely rebuilt both axles. I changed fluid in both axles and added the Detroit to the back. E-brake cable is missing.
5-speed NV4500 manual transmission swap completed in late 2016. At that time I also installed:
* All new clutch hydraulics.
* All new shocks.
* Rear main seal.
* New glow plugs, rewired to run off of 12V instead of 24V (24V system is otherwise stock).
I have been daily driving it since then.
Other mods include:
* Manual glow plug switch (previous owner).
* Electric fuel lift pump.
* Dual voltmeter (independently measures 12V and 24V systems).
* TinyTach diesel tachometer. I was going to keep this for my next project, but the speedometer gear shredded recently and I have run out of time to fix it.
* Tires are 245/75R16 on newer 8-lug rims. 75% tread.
* Driver seat & front seat belts taken from a newer truck. I'll include the matching passenger seat (split bench) if desired.
* Rear window has been converted to a liftgate from a pickup topper.
* Bluetooth/USB/AUX/FM stereo.
* Adjustable proportioning valve to set the ratio between front and rear brakes.
The truck is eligible for Military Vehicle plates, but has a clear (civilian) title in my name.
But I don't feel like pulling the T-case apart. And if I've run out of desire to fix it, now is a great time to sell it (no, I'm still not looking forward to it).Also haven't fixed the E-brake (which I never intended to fix), backup lights, or the cracked mirror. Other stuff all works.
Next step is writing up an advert. So far I have not been any good at selling vehicles, so I'll take whatever input you guys have. I think I'll throw it on Ebay first for crazy money to see if it gets any bites. And then post a real ad up after that goes nowhere. I like the Detroit, and I don't think it adds much to the resale value, so I've been planning on pulling that out for the next project. Same for the $100 Tinytach (I'd just put the old voltmeter back in that hole).
Here are my rough thoughts on what an ad should look like. Too wordy?
----
1986 Chevrolet M1009 (D10 Military Blazer)
Odometer reads 47,000 miles
6.2L diesel engine
NV4500 manual transmission
NP208 transfer case
3.73 axle gears
GM 3/4-ton 10-bolt front axle with Eaton Posi.
GM 1-ton 14-bolt full floating rear axle with Detroit Locker.
Previous owners claimed to have completely rebuilt both axles. I changed fluid in both axles and added the Detroit to the back. E-brake cable is missing.
5-speed NV4500 manual transmission swap completed in late 2016. At that time I also installed:
* All new clutch hydraulics.
* All new shocks.
* Rear main seal.
* New glow plugs, rewired to run off of 12V instead of 24V (24V system is otherwise stock).
I have been daily driving it since then.
Other mods include:
* Manual glow plug switch (previous owner).
* Electric fuel lift pump.
* Dual voltmeter (independently measures 12V and 24V systems).
* TinyTach diesel tachometer. I was going to keep this for my next project, but the speedometer gear shredded recently and I have run out of time to fix it.
* Tires are 245/75R16 on newer 8-lug rims. 75% tread.
* Driver seat & front seat belts taken from a newer truck. I'll include the matching passenger seat (split bench) if desired.
* Rear window has been converted to a liftgate from a pickup topper.
* Bluetooth/USB/AUX/FM stereo.
* Adjustable proportioning valve to set the ratio between front and rear brakes.
The truck is eligible for Military Vehicle plates, but has a clear (civilian) title in my name.
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Is the (driving) speedo gear as simple as pulling the driveshaft, removing 4 bolts, pulling the tail housing, and swapping out gears?
Maybe it is worth the hassle just to get rid of the negative selling point.
Maybe it is worth the hassle just to get rid of the negative selling point.
Say that you changed the fluid in both axles, not that you changed both axles' fluid.
Also say the tires have 75% left, not 3/4ths left.
Just trust me on this one, I am not looking to debate on how Ethan is proper, and Justin is not...
Also say the tires have 75% left, not 3/4ths left.
Just trust me on this one, I am not looking to debate on how Ethan is proper, and Justin is not...
Changes made. Not looking for a fight, I really do want to understand how selling stuff works.
The add looks good. And yes, the speedo gear is super easy in the 208's. I've done a couple.
I ordered a gear set last night. Should be here in a week or so. Are there any snags to pulling the tail housing off? I've read a couple of stories about breaking NP208 cases during reassembly (if parts aren't lined up right).
Neither of mine broke. It was pretty straight forward.
Gear set should be here on Monday. And the temps should be going back up to 40*, so I'll be able to sneak out there without freezing my fingers off.
