Same pump and lines, injectors are new Delphi units.
CK5
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The Green Grendel
- Thread starter campfire
- Start date
Same pump and lines, injectors are new Delphi units.
I'm confident all 8 cylinders are burning at idle, they're just not doing much at WOT.
Clearly it's time to tune the secondary jets.
Clearly it's time to tune the secondary jets.
That's the plan for tomorrow. I'm just confused as to which way to bump it. Unburned fuel at high RPM means it's firing late, right? So put more distance between the marks?
Hard clatter (like DI engines) and lots of smoke comes from too much advance. This is because injection is taking place at a non-peak point at the compression stroke, and you can’t get a complete burn. Too much retard has a similar effect, though quieter.
David
David
So they both have the same symptoms?
The sound is off, but I can't pinpoint what sounds wrong. I guess I'll flip a coin.
Just don't go too far advanced/retarded bad things start to happen if you push to far. Put it close to 0 and double check all your connections. Seems like something simple since the pump ran fine on the previous engine.
Drove it around town today, stopping often to tweak the pump. After a dozen or so iterations, it's still not running quite right. But it's much closer. I can hold 60MPH on the highway now, but it's struggling more than it should. Now I can get to half throttle before the smoke starts pouring out the back.
It's progress, but I'll keep tweaking it until I get it right. I have found out what both extremes sound like. So the answer must be in the middle, right?
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I mean...
On the bright side, the truck has now completed at least 20 miles. No leaks and no issues, aside from the above.
And now for tonight's episode of "you can't screw it up any worse than it already is," here's stage 1 of rust repair. David, you're allowed to close your eyes and pretend this post never happened.
Heading in the right direction but something not quite right
. Hard to say for sure when I'm not there.
Always. Though I drove the other truck today. I'll get back to tuning soon.
I've started shredding the silicone layer off of the topper seam. With bits and pieces going everywhere, this truck will need a trip to the carwash in the near future.
I have a gallon of 383 Green paint coming on Thursday. Friday is supposed to be very good painting weather, so I'm gonna keep plugging away at the body work.
I have a gallon of 383 Green paint coming on Thursday. Friday is supposed to be very good painting weather, so I'm gonna keep plugging away at the body work.
@Blue85, I took your advice and looked at the door hinges more closely. Both pins had moved up 1/4" and weren't engaging fully. When I pushed them both down the door became pretty reasonable. With the hinge moving more freely the original door's flimsy sheet metal isn't really a problem anymore. It closes fairly smoothly and the sheet metal doesn't wind up flexing.
Yet another case of overthinking the problem. I can't believe it was just a hinge pin. I was sure they had gotten crooked or something to cause that much binding.
Anyways, door swap has been deleted from the todo list. On to better things!
Yet another case of overthinking the problem. I can't believe it was just a hinge pin. I was sure they had gotten crooked or something to cause that much binding.
Anyways, door swap has been deleted from the todo list. On to better things!
Tonight's update. I washed the truck.
Seems like a big thing, eh? I should probably take a break after that.
Just kidding. I put on two layers of bondo and the appropriate sanding & priming. The white primer is for bondo/fiberglass, while the rusty primer is for rusty metal.
It's not bodyshop quality. But there was a hole there, and now there is not.
I'm not sure why I sprayed some of the old green spray paint on this spot, but it rejected the primer. I'll grind this back off. I am planning on spraying the Rapco paint directly over the existing green, but I'll hafta test the surface to make sure this doesn't happen then.
Here I've sprayed self-etching primer over my spare stainless steel mirror. @78K30, I pulled the mirror out to paint it and then dropped it.
It's now slightly cracked. Also, your burb had metric screws holding the mirror onto the bracket, while mine had standard screws. Interesting, eh?
Tailgate is primed (both sides).
The other side.
Again, there was a hole here, and now there is not.
Aside from the old tailgate, this corner of the hood had the only pre-existing piece of bondo that I've found on the truck. It was cracked, so I redid it.
Here's what the topper seal looks like after grinding off all the silicone.
I bought new seals for it, but after spraying and then scrubbing the roof down there wasn't a drop inside the truck. So I decided to leave well enough alone. Kinda surprising. I had figured the silicone was a bandaid for a failed seal.
Enough paint has come off the doorframe that I'm planning on spraying it green.
Both bumpers need some stripping and priming.
Otherwise I'm ready to start masking and waiting for BrownTruck to bring me my paint.
Seems like a big thing, eh? I should probably take a break after that.
Just kidding. I put on two layers of bondo and the appropriate sanding & priming. The white primer is for bondo/fiberglass, while the rusty primer is for rusty metal.
It's not bodyshop quality. But there was a hole there, and now there is not.
I'm not sure why I sprayed some of the old green spray paint on this spot, but it rejected the primer. I'll grind this back off. I am planning on spraying the Rapco paint directly over the existing green, but I'll hafta test the surface to make sure this doesn't happen then.
Here I've sprayed self-etching primer over my spare stainless steel mirror. @78K30, I pulled the mirror out to paint it and then dropped it.
It's now slightly cracked. Also, your burb had metric screws holding the mirror onto the bracket, while mine had standard screws. Interesting, eh?Tailgate is primed (both sides).
The other side.
Again, there was a hole here, and now there is not.
Aside from the old tailgate, this corner of the hood had the only pre-existing piece of bondo that I've found on the truck. It was cracked, so I redid it.
Here's what the topper seal looks like after grinding off all the silicone.
I bought new seals for it, but after spraying and then scrubbing the roof down there wasn't a drop inside the truck. So I decided to leave well enough alone. Kinda surprising. I had figured the silicone was a bandaid for a failed seal.
Enough paint has come off the doorframe that I'm planning on spraying it green.
Both bumpers need some stripping and priming.
Otherwise I'm ready to start masking and waiting for BrownTruck to bring me my paint.
In summary, it was a good and productive evening.
Good progress! Both of us doing body work/painting within a weeks time. Must mean the end is near!
