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The headache build..

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You can heat the bottle up somewhat, makes a huge difference. You want to maintain about 900 - 1000 psi, right in the middle is perfect. If the bottle get's cold it can drop to 600 or so, but that doesn't mean it's empty, that's why they fill by weight. However even with the same weight of N20 in the bottle you will get much less power if the pressure is down from the low temp, because the pressure pushes more through the pill, assuming you have the fuel capacity for it.

I only use about 150-175 hp shot on my car. My cousins run 300 - 400 hp of juice, but they only spray for 4 seconds. They get two runs out of a bottle at that level or performance suffers, and in drag racing consistency is the game.
 
For getting those videos, I would do like bmsmalley suggested, get a capture box (Dazzle is one, there are some others). Basically you run the RCA video/audio outputs from the cam into the capture box (just like if you were gonna hook it up to a tv) and then let the software capture the video as it plays off the camcorder.
 
I had a bottle heater, but like you said after two runs performace suffers. I did 4 runs under 5 secs.

Oh BTW, for the times, scoll down to the pick-up open class and check out the times for No 19 Andrew Argentieri.
http://www.ke-promotions.com/results.html

As you can see, I got slower as the night went on.
 
I'm tired. I'll write about more later.
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I never get tired of hearing that big block roar!!! :bow: :bow:

Rene
 
haha I feel bad for the guy in the third and fourth video getting covered in sand... lol
 
Actually, one problem we've found during an inspection before we took the blazer out for New Years, the motor was leaning badly on the passenger side. Without the motor mount cross-member, the torque of the motor was actually moving the passenger side frame rail down and out.:eek1: My engine builder says it is common for high HP to collapse even solid motor mounts ( I was using poly clam shell inserts) and the solution is a midplate. Well, I guess it is time to finally replace the frame.

With the motor out, we did a leak down, and we were getting around 12% to 36% leak down. Air was mostly going past the rings, but a few cylinders had air leaking past the exhaust valves.
So, it looks like new rings and a valve job.
We then flipped the motor over and pulled the pan and started checking bearings. The mains had coating coming off and one rod bearing had the coating coming off. So it looks like new bearings.

So I took the motor completely apart, so we could do some touch up machine work.

So, to recap, A new frame, rings and bearings, and machine work. This is getting expensive.
I guess it is better than a whole new motor. :crazy:



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Sounds like a lot of work JD.....what crank you run?
 
An Eagle steel forge crank.
Yep there is a lot of work ahead. We are going to start preparing the replacement frame soon.
I have spent all day yesterday cleaning parts from the motor.
 
I was wondering what prevents you from putting a crossmember back in there, or building something custom that would accomplish what the factory one did??? :dunno:


:usaflag:
 
crawdaddy said:
Damn cool videos.:saweet: Your truck is quick. How much hp does it take to twist frame rails?:eek1:
Click to expand...
About 600,650ft/lbs on the motor or 800,850ft/lbs on NOS. Just a bit more than an average BBC.
Greg72 said:
I was wondering what prevents you from putting a crossmember back in there, or building something custom that would accomplish what the factory one did???
Click to expand...
Well, my frame was tweaked when I got the blazer. Something I should have caught when I bought the blazer, but didn't.
When I first put the 496 in, the oil pan was resting on the crossmember. When I took out the 496, I also took out the crossmember and ordered an Offroad Design crossmember. However, my frames rails were so tweeked, I couldn't get anything to line up. So I left the crossmember out. I wanted to replace the frame, but I didn't have the room and my brother and nephew didn't want me to tear my blazer down in fear it would never go back together again like my old 73.
The bent frame was a bummer, because I didn't want to get too far building on the blazer where the bent frame would be permanent, like a roll cage or shock mounts. I just didn't care if the old frame got bent more.

Now, in fear of breaking a transmission or transfer case mount due to a twisting frame putting my drive-train in a bind. We have to replace the frame.

Now, I can go forward with other things for the blazer.
 
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