The ideal bumper pull trailer

[Shaggy]

I'm talking to some trailer companies about building a trailer that is specific to K5ers needs. I have a list of stuff that I want, but wanted to get some input to see what I've missed. So far I have

18' wood deck with 2' dovetail (20' overall deck length)
5k lb axles, electric brakes on both axles
slide-out ramps
multiple tie down points for strapping the truck to the deck
Drive-over fenders
Deck must be as wide as possible, additional width in front of and behind fenders so overall width in those locations of 86-88".
2 5/16" hitch
a jack that's strong enough to hold the tongue up with the trailer loaded

What did I miss? Obviously there would be options, I'm just trying to hit the stuff that is specific to our needs, the width and capacity being the main things that are different from a typical car hauler.

 

[surpip]

A box to hold all your spare junk in

 

[Shaggy]

Would be nice, but is also probably something that people sould add on their own. I'm trying to get a solid trailer for a low price, so the extras like that aren't really entering in. Could be an option though I'm sure.

 

[OL14BLAZ]

Get a break away kit--it's nice to have, to stop the trailer incase it ever comes loose from the tow rig. IMO Bulldog hitch is the only way to go for the jack and coupler, some trailer companies use cheaper ones that aren't worth their own wieght. Also 16" E rated tires are a must for carrying around a fullsize for long distances.

 

[6.2Blazer]

Here is my opinion on the trailer, based on my experience:

- 18' is plenty long for a K5 or SWB truck........I several extra feet at the front of my 18' trailer with the K5 loaded

- The extra width really isn't needed. Even if the tires hang over the edge a little it's not like the truck is going to slip off the side. My deck is 82" wide plus has stake pockets along each side that effectively make it around 86" wide, but 82-83" should really be fine unless your truck is abnormally wide.

- I currently have drive-over fenders (well, more like ramps on the inside of the fenders). Keep in mind that a true drive-over fender has to extend towards the inside of the trailer deck by probably at least 3-4" on each side (if the deck is 82" wide and a typical K5 with oversize tires is around 86" wide, you would have to balance the tires on the outer 2" on each side.......tough to do without slipping one off the fender). If they are not removeable you could have problems loading something like a car that can't go over the fenders but is now too wide to fit between them.

I'm also debating the possible issues with drive-over fenders. If everything is working okay it's the fastest way to load and unload the truck, but........I would have a hard time loading and unloading if I broke on the trail and only had front or rear wheel drive (front tires are climbing the fenders the same time the rear tires are climbing the ramps). When I broke a front axle shaft and was in 3wd, it loaded fine but I couldn't unload it (it was raining so the deck was slick). A completely dead truck could really be tough to get loaded.

 

[Shaggy]

A bulldog hitch and E rated tires were requested, forgot to add those to the list.

I requested the extra width because if I'm going to have a trailer built specifically for a wide rig, there's no reason to have the tires hanging off the edges, know what I mean? Might as well have it modified to fit correctly in the first place.

I was going back and forth between 18 and 20', I was originally looking for an 18, but the extra space might be nice sometimes. Maybe removable fenders would be better, I'm still torn on this one. they both have advantages and disadvantages, but I guess in the end with price being no concern, removable is probably better, so long as they're easy to get on and off.

 

[rjfguitar]

It would have to be fairly wide for me, I'm 89" wide.

 

[K30CJ]

If I were having a trailer built, I'd go gooseneck. Regardless, another thing to consider is your lighting. I went with sealed trailer lights that mount in the rubber holder grommet thingys. Also have them mounted out of harm's way. I hate that about my smaller bumper pull car hauler. The lights are the typical, cheap junk mounted right out in the open which makes them high maintenance (lenses, bulbs, sockets). Here's a pic of the back of my goose.

I also went with good quality, untreated wood, and just put a heavy coat of Thompson's on it every year. Less cost and lighter than treated.

I went with axles that use 8-lug wheels that match my truck - one less spare to carry.

Another thing - don't drive your trailer on a gravel road in the rain or it will rust like you see on mine. The township used to put calcium chloride on the road to keep dust down.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I requested the extra width because if I'm going to have a trailer built specifically for a wide rig, there's no reason to have the tires hanging off the edges, know what I mean? Might as well have it modified to fit correctly in the first place.

I agree about the width, but you also mentioned a "low price" was desired. Staying with a normal width deck should obviously be cheaper.

Maybe removable fenders would be better, I'm still torn on this one. they both have advantages and disadvantages, but I guess in the end with price being no concern, removable is probably better, so long as they're easy to get on and off.

I'm still not sure what the ultimate answer to this is........maybe drive-over fenders that are removeable? Actually if you go "removeable" I think fenders that are hinged (where they would fold to the outside of the trailer) would be easier to deal with. The drive-overs provide a no-hassle loading and unloading, but I'm still worried about the "what if?" situation. If you go drive-over I would recommend building some sort of ramp that bolts on the inside of the fender that can be removed if you ever need to haul something else.

 

[surpip]

Here is my opinion on the trailer, based on my experience:

I'm also debating the possible issues with drive-over fenders. If everything is working okay it's the fastest way to load and unload the truck, but........I would have a hard time loading and unloading if I broke on the trail and only had front or rear wheel drive (front tires are climbing the fenders the same time the rear tires are climbing the ramps). When I broke a front axle shaft and was in 3wd, it loaded fine but I couldn't unload it (it was raining so the deck was slick). A completely dead truck could really be tough to get loaded.

A winch mount at the front would solve this, but would be a little bit more expinsive

 

[Shaggy]

RJF, your truck is 89 inches wide because you like those super-wide wheels with too little backspacing. I run 42s and am still only 85" inches wide because I kept it as narrow as possible without rubbing. You went for looks, I went for function. To each his own.

K30CJ, a gooseneck is out of the question for me, I am going to be running a slide-in camper too so I need the bed for that. I can't do the camper/rig hauler gooseneck combo thing that guys are doing now because I'll want to take the camper places without the truck, like to take the boat to the lake or just go "normal" camping in the woods without the truck.

I do want the lights built into the trailer like that though, going to have to ask about that.

 

[6.2Blazer]

A winch mount at the front would solve this, but would be a little bit more expinsive

A winch on the front of the Blazer works also However due to the angles of the line it still makes it tough to winch over the fender ramps........you are effectively pulling the front of the truck down and against the ramps instead of up and over them. You also still have the issue with unloading.

Again, maybe not that big of a deal but still something to consider.

 

[rcpilot]

.... Actually if you go "removeable" I think fenders that are hinged (where they would fold to the outside of the trailer) would be easier to deal with.....

Esteban86k5 has done this to his trailer... works sweet.. maybe he'll post some pics...

 

[Burt4x4]

Back to your original list Shagg..

Brake Away controller & a Spare tire for the trailer(even if it the same as the TR cuz I belive in Murphy and as soon as I use the one and only spare I have POW there goes another tire).

Then when you get it perfect the way you want it and get a price quote...Call me and lets find out if you order two the same way what kind of discount do you get?

maby ask about frame thickness and make sure it has a 9990 rateing on it too keep it class C.
Burt

 

[imiceman44]

It would have to be fairly wide for me, I'm 89" wide.

OH man!!!!
So you stick out 1.5" on each side out of your 86" wide truck??????


Shaggy,
Removable is better than drive over as noted above, and hinged on the outside would make it better, easier to handle.
As for the extra 2' you have you can put that tool box to hold some stuff.
Also for tie downs, have one in the middle of the trailer, it's nice to have some times I used one with a loop in the middle made my job easier.

Oh and breakaway kit is I believe a requirement in CA at least for the 10K or the 9999

IceMan

 

[Shaggy]

Burt, I'm asking for quotes for 1 2 and 3 trailers to see what the difference would be. If I can get them priced for under $3k delivered then I think it's probably a pretty good deal. I'm hoping to get them under $2500 but I doubt that that's possible. If they're within 1000 miles I would be willing to drive to pick them up, even with 3 I could stack them on top of each other, then split fuel costs with the other buyers.

I thought more on the deck length, 18' would be great for the K5 guys, but I'd like the extra room since I have a shortbed truck so I have an extra foot or so of length to deal with. There's nothing so special about this trailer that it couldn't be built in different lengths though.

Breakaway kit and 9999lb GVWR was requested, spare tire was not but I guess it was assumed.

So my list is now-

• 18' or 20' wood deck
• Optional 2' dovetail (still 18' or 20' overall length)
• 5k lb axles, electric brakes on both axles, GVWR needs to be just under 10k lbs
• slide-out ramps
• 10 tie down points for strapping the truck to the deck, 2 at the front, 2 that are 5 deet from the front of the deck, 2 in the middle, 2 that are 5 feet from the rear of the deck, and 2 at the rear (should give lots of flexibility for hauling loads other than trucks, and different length trucks)
• Fold down or removable fenders
• Deck must be as wide as possible, additional width in front of and behind fenders so overall width in those locations of 86-88".
• 2 5/16" bulldog hitch
• a jack that's strong enough to hold the tongue up with the trailer loaded
• NEW E load range tires with spare (mounted on tongue)
• Lights recessed into trailer (LED lights preferred depending on cost)

Would anyone else in CA be interested in one of these? I'm thinking that maybe we could try to get a group buy going...

 

[Burt4x4]

"Would anyone else in CA be interested in one of these? I'm thinking that maybe we could try to get a group buy going..."

I am interested as you know. BUTTT I could not buy one this month....How soon are you 'pulling the trigger'? Stupid empty rentail homes are sucking the cash out of me

 

[Shaggy]

I need to sell my S-10 before I buy one. My answer is "Before Blazerfest".

 

[rcpilot]

"Would anyone else in CA be interested in one of these? I'm thinking that maybe we could try to get a group buy going..."

I am interested as you know. BUTTT I could not buy one this month....How soon are you 'pulling the trigger'? Stupid empty rentail homes are sucking the cash out of me

Depending on when I would be interested....

 

[rjfguitar]

RJF, your truck is 89 inches wide because you like those super-wide wheels with too little backspacing. I run 42s and am still only 85" inches wide because I kept it as narrow as possible without rubbing. You went for looks, I went for function. To each his own.

I am missing your point. I was I was just saying that if I was going to have custom trailer made it would have to be at least 89" wide for my K5. It would seem to be easy, my tow trailer is 96" wide. BTW, IIRC I think my rims have 4.25" BS