The Kid and his K5

[imiceman44]

No directions with the new kit?

Look here….

Back to the Basics: Rebuilding a steering coupler rag joint - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Back to the Basics: Rebuilding a steering coupler rag joint Suspension

67-72chevytrucks.com

This what I had to do when mine got ripped out on the Rubicon after the frame broke and the steering box fell off.
The kit came with all the pieces, just have to reuse the metal pieces.
I didn't like how soft the new rubber was and ended up finding the jeep ujoint style fix.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Put it back together and get an jeep xj shaft, no rag joint so you get a better feel to the steering.

 

[Liamking01]

Got back at it today! My dad wanted to help out which was great with installing the new steering box. Feeling it from taking that thing out yesterday. Managed to get a decent amount done. All that is left is throwing grease in the joints and power steering fluid besides for the steering shaft.

I’ve attached photos with my problem. My new Borgeson steering shaft u joint won’t fit on the existing male end. The shaft it’s meant to slide onto is too large by a few thousandths. I tried polishing it with no success. Is this common for these new shafts to not fit? Is grinding it down the tenon the best call? The directions for the steering shaft also call for the tenon to be drilled out on only one side. Mine is currently drilled out on both from a through bolt. Am I okay to re use that hole or need to drill a new one further up?

update on rag joint is that I replaced it. I tried bolting up the new steering shaft with it and it was very saggy. Glad I picked up a new one after installing it. Thanks for the help y’all!

 

[76zimmer]

Lots of people have upgrded to a Jeep Cherokee shaft/ujoint. I believe mine was from a 94. You might have to search a few to get the right mate to your input shaft on the box and/or steering column. I hd to grind a flat on my steering column for it to work.

This one is from a 94 Cherokee w PS.

 

[imiceman44]

Lots of people have upgrded to a Jeep Cherokee shaft/ujoint. I believe mine was from a 94. You might have to search a few to get the right mate to your input shaft on the box and/or steering column. I hd to grind a flat on my steering column for it to work.

This one is from a 94 Cherokee w PS.

View attachment 522590

Also some years of the express van also work good

 

[Liamking01]

Project Complete! I have brand new steering in the truck and man it makes a difference! Did not know just how much of an improvement that would make. Next up is brakes! Going to overhaul them completely.

One thing I have noticed is a smell like burnt peanut butter in the cab of the truck as of recently. I've started to think that it is my transmission. I already had to replace it once about a year ago. That one burnt up fairly quickly and the warranty covered it because of a TV connection burnt it out. Im fairly sure this new transmission problem has something to do with this. I am going to try and bring it back to the shop I had it at - but is there anything I can start looking into in the meantime? What do I do if the warranty won't cover it this time?

Thanks yall!

 

[76zimmer]

700r4?
Check the color and level of the fluid.
Make sure the TV cable at the carb linkage is hooked up and the adjustment lock is pushed in.
Did the transmission shop adjust the TV cable @ install?

 

[Liamking01]

700r4?
Check the color and level of the fluid.
Make sure the TV cable at the carb linkage is hooked up and the adjustment lock is pushed in.
Did the transmission shop adjust the TV cable @ install?

Yes 700r4. The fluid is at the correct level and is red for the most part - tiny amount of black/ dark fluid on the edge of the dipstick.

The transmission has been rebuilt twice now - the first time they did not fix the tv cable and it overheated in a day or two. The second time they changed the tv cable and converter and it has been running well.

Since then, I have replaced the intake manifold gaskets. But I assembled the carburetor the same way as I took it off. Everything appears to be in order. I will look up a video on how to check the adjustment on the tv cable - could be that i didn't assemble it correctly, however, I was very delicate about putting it all back together the same exact way it came off.

 

[imiceman44]

Yes 700r4. The fluid is at the correct level and is red for the most part - tiny amount of black/ dark fluid on the edge of the dipstick.

The transmission has been rebuilt twice now - the first time they did not fix the tv cable and it overheated in a day or two. The second time they changed the tv cable and converter and it has been running well.

Since then, I have replaced the intake manifold gaskets. But I assembled the carburetor the same way as I took it off. Everything appears to be in order. I will look up a video on how to check the adjustment on the tv cable - could be that i didn't assemble it correctly, however, I was very delicate about putting it all back together the same exact way it came off.

Every time you remove it you need to make sure it's checked.

 

[76zimmer]

IIRC, you pull up the locking tab, open accelerator linkage to full throttle, then lock the tab and release the throttle. This is assuming the cable is hooked up inside the trans correctly, and the bracket that holds the adjustment locking mechanism is installed correctly.

 

[Liamking01]

IIRC, you pull up the locking tab, open accelerator linkage to full throttle, then lock the tab and release the throttle. This is assuming the cable is hooked up inside the trans correctly, and the bracket that holds the adjustment locking mechanism is installed correctly.

Thank you for this help. I was looking at geometry diagrams and thought this would be much harder than it sounds. I didn't realize it would adjust autmatically like that. If you wouldn't mind, may you confirm the picture I attached is what you are describing?

Before I attempt to readjust the TV cable - I noticed that my carb doesn't have the L-shaped adapter plate. Could someone confirm whether I need this adapter plate or not? Pictures are below. If the transmission guys did not know about this, it would make a lot of sense as to why my poor transmission keeps getting hot.

 

[Liamking01]

UPDATE: I have done a bit more research and see that there is a mounting bracket from TCI to adjust the mounting location and there is a part that connects to the throttle shaft. Not sure which one I need - maybe even both. One set of instructions I have found cite just the TCI mounting bracket - but some videos on YouTube show them using both of them. Ive attached Pictures of both. There is also a kit from TCI that includes a new cable and the L-shaped bracket from the above post.

 

[76zimmer]

looks like the TV cable was replaced at some time, as the oem cable attached to the original quadrajet linkage with a specific fitting.
With the Edelbrock carb, I’m not sure what you need to make that cable work.
The trans shop should be able to check line pressures and maybe make a correct adjustment from those. If the trans shop don’t know how to adjust it, I would maybe be looking for another shop?
And make sure the lockup function still works too.

 

[Wes Harden]

Sonnex trans solutions make a tv cable spring.I highly recommend

Amazon.com: Sonnax GM & AOD Holley TV Corrector Kit : Automotive

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I am using the TCI bracket and sonnex spring on a stock 4mv quadrajet. I also sourced a tv cable from a 89 caprice. I do not like the aftermarket one with adjustable sheath.

In your picture it does not appear your cable is adjusted at all, but with brass stop I suppose they could taken all slop out that way

 

[Liamking01]

Hey Yall,
It has been a minute since Ive posted an update. I gave up on trying to adjust the tv cable with one of those cheap correctors - with the 1" riser on the carb I really struggled to get the geometry correct. I recently installed a new Bowtie Overdrive TV Cable kit (way more than I wanted to spend, but they seem to be the best). The kit installed pretty smoothly and had great instructions - if anyone wants the instructions, I have a pdf that I could share. All I am waiting for is a pressure gauge so I can adjust the cable properly, however, this leads me to my next project - a tachometer. Per the BTO instructions, I will need to read the transmission pressure at 1500 rpms. Installing a tachometer is fairly simple from what I read - just plug it into the distributor and ground it off, however, I am not sure how to mount it. I am dumbfounded by the magic of distributors - took me hours to re install it when I took it out last, but I don't believe this will be the case for a tach. I am on a tight budget, so a new dash is out of the question. Does anyone have a clean way of installing the new gauges? I am also looking at installing a trans temp gauge - which I am thinking of putting in the dash where the clock currently is or mounting it externally next to the tach - not sure if the clocks are worth keeping or not, mine is not operational atm. Any input on this? Are there any other gauges that I should install while I am at it? The trans temp I am thinking of installing simply into the pressure port - but i have read that will only give me the case temp not the fluid temp.

Looking ahead, I will be working on brakes. I have new steel braided lines. I will be doing wheel bearings while I am at it. Thinking about taking out the rear drums and replacing it with disks but may get a bit out of my price range. Contemplating if it is worth rebuilding the drums, keeping them as is or replacing them with disks. Saving up for some new tires - my Walmart has the Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP on rollback sale, so I am leaning towards them. Heard good things about them. After these projects I think I will be good to start cleaning up the truck - which I am very excited for. A lot to look forward to and a lot to learn. My two limiting factors are time and money at this point - not effort hahaha. I have plenty of that!

Hope everyone is well and healthy,
Liam

 

[CriticalAction]

The two spots I have mounted cheap tachometers are hose clamped to the steering column tilted to only partially block my fuel gauge and the other I pulled the trim screw out on the A pillar and put a longer one in. Worked well for me.

For Trans temp gauges I have mounted them in the ash tray with a flat piece of whatever scrap sheet metal I had. I didn't want to cut any holes in the dash. I also am not a fan of the ones that screw to the bottom of the dash.

 

[Liamking01]

For Trans temp gauges I have mounted them in the ash tray with a flat piece of whatever scrap sheet metal I had. I didn't want to cut any holes in the dash. I also am not a fan of the ones that screw to the bottom of the dash.

Thanks! That's pretty slick. Will have to give it a shot. How did you fasten the metal into the ash tray?

 

[CriticalAction]

Thanks! That's pretty slick. Will have to give it a shot. How did you fasten the metal into the ash tray?

Its just a flat piece of metal and after pulling out the ash tray I just used shoe goo to glue it to the face. Been that way for almost 10 years... Maybe would use something different now but its still holding so... lol