The mother of all doubler crossmember pics thread

[TheBeast_88K5]

This is the COOLEST THREAD EVER!!!

*excluding threads in the "pen"...

 

[muddermilitia]

Not trying to critize, I'm am just curious?

I notice a lot of you guys put bushings under the doubler & between the crossmember & frame. Also noticed some of you are only putting bushings at the frame.

I have always had the thought that if you had engine mounts on the block that your trans/doubler mount needed to be similiarly spaced(i.e. at the doubler, not the frame), & that you shouldn't mix & match. Kinda like if you have solid or poly mounts on the engine you need the same at the trans/doubler.


Has anyone broke a transmission or adapter & it not been from driveshaft bound up?

It is highly recommended to use the same bushing material for the engine and tcase(s)! Which is why I went with rubber bushings for my doubler since I'm still using the factory motor mounts (for now)

I think it's a stronger setup to have the crossmember hard mounted to the frame, then have the rest on bushings. But that's just me

 

[blazinzuk]

Not trying to critize, I'm am just curious?

I notice a lot of you guys put bushings under the doubler & between the crossmember & frame. Also noticed some of you are only putting bushings at the frame.

I have always had the thought that if you had engine mounts on the block that your trans/doubler mount needed to be similiarly spaced(i.e. at the doubler, not the frame), & that you shouldn't mix & match. Kinda like if you have solid or poly mounts on the engine you need the same at the trans/doubler.


Has anyone broke a transmission or adapter & it not been from driveshaft bound up?

Conventional wisdom says yes. But I have been looking at different makes and models and how they mount all their crossmembers, it as different as types of cars out there.

My bushing on the second crossmember are poly. mounted outside the frame, my first crossmember is mostly stock modified to sit on top of the inside lip of the frame with the bushing in the stock location ( this is the transmission crossmember). My motor mounts are rubber. I get alot of movement out of my setup, too much for my likes. I intend to mount everything with poly soon enough ( I also said this like 2 years ago when I built all this). I think my movement comes from my last crossmember being mounted outside the frame.

So if you read common internet wisdom my trans bellhousing should have come apart and killed me already. I don't think it makes as much difference as alot of people think

 

[mr250twostroke]

I just copied ORD's idea. Stupid simple and under $10 bucks in material.

 

[76zimmer]

There are quite a few opinions out there as I found out when I was building mine.
I came to the consensus that the engine mounts control the torque (twisting) of the drivetrain. The trans/transfer case needs to be supported and not necessarily control the torque forces, but needs to move at least an equal amount that the engine does, to not put torque forces on the cases. Especially important on aluminum cases.

 

[DrkZide]

Hmm, now I need to build one

 

[K85 Octane]

Bump for a great resource

700/241, full clock, 1" BL, big hole in floor to suck it up as much as possible.

Not quite a doubler but an idea for someone. Still working on a skid.

 

[onetonbb74]

Nothing fancy here, just a factory crossmember modified to fit.
I ran it this way in my last truck, worked out good for several years. I do want to make another one and run a skid plate.

 

[stan1688]

Not quite a doubler but an idea for someone. Still working on a skid.

I like it. Still gives you a flat belly and only loses what, 2" of clearance?

 

[muddermilitia]

Glad to see this thread is still alive

 

[muddermilitia]

Bump. Anybody got anymore good pics or ideas to share? I'm thinking of editing the 1st post to include general doubler info, links to good builds, and part numbers

 

[sweetk30]

Bump. Anybody got anymore good pics or ideas to share? I'm thinking of editing the 1st post to include general doubler info, links to good builds, and part numbers

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=253000

 

[K85 Octane]

I like it. Still gives you a flat belly and only loses what, 2" of clearance?

(IIRC) The angle is 1.5" so maybe after the skid I'll be down 2". It's holding up great so far.

 

[85 Jimmy]

Here's one I just found, that I like a lot.
All the pictures are pulled from this thread. The crossmember begins to be made on post 178.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/chevy/1431410-78-k30-brushtruck-build-general-purpose-rig.html

 

[muddermilitia]

That skid plate is kickass!

 

[FOR MUD]

I like the way the skid plate swings down for service. I wish I saw this a couple of years ago before building mine.

 

[FOR MUD]

Just dug up some picts of mine.....

 

[rhinoblzr]

Finally got around to making mine. Feels good to get rid of the temp one i had in. Thought i'd post mine up to help other people as this thread helped me.











View attachment 224808

 

[Bent77]

Updates for bump.

Note on front drive shaft clearance for future viewers: truck is high pinion

 

[sweetk30]

@Bent77 to be honest your front drive line clearance looks like crap . . . way to close to the floor.