you mean the green area? yep it's metal, what you have there is surely aftermarket.
CK5
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The Original Jaws Blazer Build
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
These are the closest thing I can find...
http://www.carupholsteryguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=1517
Craig, what are those sidepanels made out of and what kind of material is on them?
http://www.carupholsteryguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=1517
Craig, what are those sidepanels made out of and what kind of material is on them?
If you're talking about the side panels on either side of the inside of the "bed" area, they're vinyl on the lower part and plastic woodgrain up top, separated by aluminum trim strips.
He could be talking about the duct panals. Which are plastic. A/C have a blank panel on the driver side and vacuum operated duct on the passenger side while non A/C have a manual duct on both sides which you can open. I think the sheet metal in that area is different on the driver side in that area also.
Edit, Artzner has a non A/C blazer so he has the manual ducts on both sides.
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I found out the name of those panels...aptly..."kick panels"....but nobody makes them in metal only...carpeted yes
I found out the reason my oem dash Temp Gauge wasn't working....the parts store sold me a sending unit for a "light" when they should have given me the sending unit for a gauge.
Swapped that and it works.
I am in the process of taking apart the instrument cluster and cleaning it. I cleaned the gauges, sprayed the black internal bezel and did my best to clean the lens...I think it is good enough to not have to buy a new one....maybe..
Swapped that and it works.
I am in the process of taking apart the instrument cluster and cleaning it. I cleaned the gauges, sprayed the black internal bezel and did my best to clean the lens...I think it is good enough to not have to buy a new one....maybe..
a new lens is $40.00 + Shipping from LMC....what would you do?
It's worlds better than it was, but there is still a light haze that I just can't get out...
It's worlds better than it was, but there is still a light haze that I just can't get out...
They look fine in the photo, but your the one who makes the final decision, try a headlight lens polishing kit. working with the finer polishing compounds and plenty of elbow grease should clean them up good....but it may be easier to just buy a new one. Depends on what you can live with, or want to save/spend for your need.
Well, why don't you take a picture of the panels on your rig so we know what you have.
The kick panel that are painted factory color is part of the body.
Edit, could be the "footwell" which goes under an aftermarket kick panel or carpet kits. On the early second gen blazers, the footwell is exposed.
No, 1 on the LMC catalog page 23.
LMC's blazer page.
How do you get the freakin' manual oil pressure line off the back of the freakin' oem manual gauge?????
With a 3/8 wrench. I take it you already loosen the fitting on the back and it still won't come off?
aggghhhhh!!! I finally got it, but I rounded off the edges of the little fitting....I was so afraid I was going to break the line....
There was the little fitting and then a 9/16 nut on the back of the gauge...I wasn't sure which one or which direction to turn it. But I found out it is standard threaded direction and it is the fitting that you loosen...
There was the little fitting and then a 9/16 nut on the back of the gauge...I wasn't sure which one or which direction to turn it. But I found out it is standard threaded direction and it is the fitting that you loosen...
Don't laugh...I spent another 8 or 9 hours today on the Blazer and it doesn't seem like i got anything done.
I took the dash pad off and took the entire instrument panel out and took it apart and spray painted the inside area a shiny chrome to help with dash lights.
I put in a new headlight switch...cleaned out about a half inch of California desert out of the dash...there's still more.
I cleaned all the contacts on the printed circuit sheet and all the bulbs it all looked nice and neat when I re-installed it, but there is still a problem:
When I turn on the headlights, the right turn signal lamp lights up and the gauges move for a second...actually the temp gauge rises slightly.
When I was in there I unbolted the ground to the clock and sanded the metal and put it back....what could this be? Need some input on troubleshooting this....
I took the dash pad off and took the entire instrument panel out and took it apart and spray painted the inside area a shiny chrome to help with dash lights.
I put in a new headlight switch...cleaned out about a half inch of California desert out of the dash...there's still more.
I cleaned all the contacts on the printed circuit sheet and all the bulbs it all looked nice and neat when I re-installed it, but there is still a problem:
When I turn on the headlights, the right turn signal lamp lights up and the gauges move for a second...actually the temp gauge rises slightly.
When I was in there I unbolted the ground to the clock and sanded the metal and put it back....what could this be? Need some input on troubleshooting this....
Sound like a bad ground problem. There was a thread in the garage not too long ago about the same problem. Basically, since there is no ground the currant finds another path. It somehow finds it though right turn signal light.
BTW, you have aftermarket kick panels. GM never installed speaker in that spot from the factory. Just remove those kick panels and expose the factory sheet metal for a factory look.
BTW, you have aftermarket kick panels. GM never installed speaker in that spot from the factory. Just remove those kick panels and expose the factory sheet metal for a factory look.
anybody have the link...I can't find it in the search...and where do you begin to look for the bad ground?
I'm searching also, and I'm coming up with nothing. I hope I didn't read it on another forum.
Anyway, check your contact between black wire on the dash plug and printed circuit board.
Do you have a test light, or even better, a multimeter?
Anyway, check your contact between black wire on the dash plug and printed circuit board.
Do you have a test light, or even better, a multimeter?
Not the same thread I was talking about but talks about the same issue.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260833&highlight=dash+turn+signal
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260833&highlight=dash+turn+signal
Yep. should be the ground, and sometimes there is more than one on the same plug.
I will have to pull the cluster out again tomorrow....
Is there a simple answer to where all the ground wires go in the dash? Like for example, do they all go to the fuse block?
And is there a standard ground wiring setup...like for example, the battery to the alternator bracket...from the engine block to the frame?
or are there more than you can count?
Is there a simple answer to where all the ground wires go in the dash? Like for example, do they all go to the fuse block?
And is there a standard ground wiring setup...like for example, the battery to the alternator bracket...from the engine block to the frame?
or are there more than you can count?
