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The Original Jaws Blazer Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
Chief Brody said:
I also had the good luck to find a premium drivers side front fender for $69.00 brand new and they actually shipped it for $10.00!!!!
I can't believe it, everyone else wanted $130 to $175 just for shipping...something tells me they will fix that real quick.

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Yep...I got real lucky on that...they are now showing $118.00 for shipping...I got it shipped to me for $10.00 and they honored it.

I looked at an inner fender skirt and they also charge $89.00 shipping on that....

I wish I had a sheet metal distributor in my city that sold Chevy metal and another that sold interior stuff...shipping has got crazy out of hand expensive.:eek1:
 
mcurry said:
What's the latest on this project? New pics?
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Nothing to show yet....I have to fix the transmission leak and possibly replace the engine wiring harness as I have a ground fault that I cannot locate.

As soon as I get those things fixed I can turn my attention back to the fun things like interior and stuff you can see...

Actually, I forgot...I do have something to show...I got a NOS 1974 grill for it...I will installing it tomorrow as my Christmas gift!
 
Just to update, I have been busy replacing all the seals on the transmission...Detent, Dipstick, Accumulator Cover, Shift Shaft...in an effort to stop the intolerable leaking.

I believe I did that today with the Shift Shaft Seal...details are in this thread http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2839966#post2839966

Now, to tackle that ground problem....I have ordered a new printed circuit from LMC and new dash Lamp sockets...I wanted to start with that when I tear the instrument cluster out yet again...

I also got new nylon inserts and installed the NOS grill...I haven't got pics yet.
 
tRustyK5 said:
so when is chapter 2?

Rene
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I think something big like new seat covers or painting will warrant a new Chapter...Chapter 1 is kind of the introduction and fixing mechanical issues..etc..so I can get it drivable...Chapter 2 will definately be changes to the appearance...although, new wheels and tires made their way into Chapter 1, it was necessary because I couldn't drive around on those old dry-rotted 20 year old tires...

I have a bit of OCD, so little stuff like oil leaks will drive me crazy to the point I lose focus...

Maybe I should make the electrical part Chapter 2? That's the next thing I will be doing which at this point is looking like it may need an entire chassis rewire...maybe one of those easy kits or something...
 
I have a bit of OCD
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For this type of build this is a good thing.

I'd look into Painless wiring for some kits. Or, you could carefully document removal of the existing harness's and re-wire it yourself.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Or, you could carefully document removal of the existing harness's and re-wire it yourself.

Rene
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THe only problem with that is somebody "rewired" it when they put another engine in it...so it's not correct right now...like the wiring harness going to the starter being wired over top of the fuel pump...

The Painless looks like a good deal...I cannot imagine it being all that difficult...there nothing under there much...the lighting is more complicated than the engine harness...at least it appears that way....I have never rewired anything though :confused:
 
I was scared about getting all the wiring back in my after it had been out for so many years, but it wasn't that bad at all. They are really not that bad to do at all.
 
Teck said:
I was scared about getting all the wiring back in my after it had been out for so many years, but it wasn't that bad at all. They are really not that bad to do at all.
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What wiring kit did you use?

I am waiting to get my new printed circuit from LMC (It is BACKORDERED)...I am going to start there and then decide if it's necessary to rewire the whole thing.
 
It was the factory wire harness. It was all removed when it was painted, then it was ten years or so before I got it all out of storage to start putting it back together. Follow what you have and find someone that has another chevy ( truck or K5 )to look at to see where the wire are run that you are not sure of. ( a little research always helps ). That is how I got all mine back in and working.
 
Another setback...after putting new seals on the accumulator cover, dipstick tube, detent cable, shift shaft and pan...it is still leaking.

Looks like it has to be coming from the front pump area or the torque converter...fluid drips from the center front opening...there is no flywheel dust cover on. Sometimes it doesn't leak when I park it but there is some fluid there the next morning. It's not as bad as it was, it was leaking from all those other places, but it still is leaking from somewhere.

The bolts on the pump look a bit "wet"....although I cannot see a distinct trail of fluid coming down the center from the front seal....and it does not leak when idling...I don't know about when driving...the fluid level doesn't drop after a 3 or 4 mile drive.

Could be the bolts...could be the front seal...could be the torque converter rear seal...I really don't know...I don't think I can do the work by myself necessary to troubleshoot this...I don't have a transmission jack.

I don't know what it costs to get this fixed and I wonder if it's time to think about having it rebuilt? I wonder if the cost of having the pump seals replaced would come close to cost of a rebuild?
 
If your trans is working fine, I sure wouldn't have it rebuilt. A front torque convertor seal is common for leakage, and it would require trans removal to replace it.
Try to spray some brake cleaner up in the area behind the torque convertor (watch your eyes) Clean it thoroughly around the pump too. Take if for a 10 mile drive, and check it when you get back...it should have a clean fresh fluid trail.
If its the pump, same scenario of trans removal, but it is only a square Oring around the pump, and a paper gasket where the pump seats to the case.
 
I need your honest opinion...can I remove and reinstall the TH350-NP203 combo by myself?
I can't stand the thought of leaving my truck anywhere...like the transmission shop...I am willing to try this just to prevent having to leave it somewhere.

With a transmission jack, is it do-able to remove and then line it back up and install by myself without anyone else to help....:dunno:
 
I have done it on a sloped drive way. It was a PITA but it was doable. I was changing the flex-plate. It took me a day and half.
 
Chief Brody said:
I need your honest opinion...can I remove and reinstall the TH350-NP203 combo by myself?
I can't stand the thought of leaving my truck anywhere...like the transmission shop...I am willing to try this just to prevent having to leave it somewhere.

With a transmission jack, is it do-able to remove and then line it back up and install by myself without anyone else to help....:dunno:
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I don't know how much a 203 weighs but I have had my 205 and th350 out several times by myself with a standard floor jack. I have taken them out individually not as a set.
Just make sure your rig is up high enough to let you manuver well and slide everything out under the frame rails (on a 'cuda I had it was a PITA to get the tranny off my jack in tight confines so I could lift the car 3" higher:doah:).
 
Mostly just un bolting it at the adapter. Its a pain to get to some of the bolts. Helps to go in threw the shifter area from up top. There is like 8 3/8" bolts(9/16" head) to un bolt the t-case from the adapter. Otherwise, mostly not too tough.
 
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