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The R/C Garage... [R/C Drivers Lounge]

Just found out in my Engineering class that we will be required to build a robot to compete in a race. I'm thinking of building am electric powered ultra 4 type of thing. Decent at high speed whoops but can still crawl up a flight of stairs. Its not going to have any type of body for cosmetics except for what is installed to increase survivability. Im thinking if i use tall enough tires and keep the platform low profile enough it should be able to drive upside down in reverse just in case i get rolled over during the race. Also if the tires are out in front of the body it will be able to climb up stairs well as long as i get the wheel base and belly clearance right. I'm pretty sure the race course will just consist of flat ground and maybe stairs but i'll have to get more information from my teacher to be sure. Just started browsing over here. Anyone know any better places to get the parts to build one of these little Rc buggys from scratch?

Tower hobbies has a ton of that stuff.
 
I'm wanting to build an SCX10 again. I might just have to bite the bullet, but having a RC truck worth more than my real truck seems kind of backwards.

And I finnally broke something on my slash. Was doing donuts on the smooth concrete in the garage with no body on it, slid under the tire on my ford and broke a lower rear control arm.
 
Sweetness, I just favorited them as another Rc part vendor. I got to talk to my teacher today at a little engineering seminar type of thing he was doing outside of class. He said the course is just around the building and is max a 1/4 of a mile. Also its all flat ground except for stairs but i can take the wheel chair ramp if i want to. He also said that the hardest part of building an Rc Car is working out the Microcontroller. Let the research begin!
 
Aww yeah!!! :woot:

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How my Axial based Crawler turned out :waytogo:

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My Losi Ten-SCTE and XXX-SCT at the track. If you look down by my shoes and see my Slash kinda...its on Bash duty for the forseeable future, its all RPMed out for the most part.
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My Summit after some snow bashing this last winter.
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My Rustler seasons points from last winter. 3rd in onroad openwheel Mod and 1st in Open wheel Mod offroad
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My Slash 2nd place in Spec Slash
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My XXX-SCT 1st in Stock Shortcourse(17.5 Class)
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My XXX-SCT down at a big race last winter in Omaha. Ended up with 10th in the AMain. My buddy Dales Blitz is right behind me.
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My Ten-SCTE at the same event, I took 1st in the CMain with it.
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The Blue Blur in my Ten-SCTE and then the Red and black truck is STOMPERs SC104x4
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Painted the wraith flat black today...and added stickers to it finally lol.

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finally got mine almost done... it will get rear steer eventually and a 35t motor..

for now 27t stock on 3s:whistle:... 16t/87t gearing

just got a deal on a proline tuber with panels... got lights from someone else.. bought the roof rack..

will mostly be waterproof...
used a radio shack diy box for esc... need to seal up where i drilled for the wires...

need to figure out a small box for the castle bec and rx located in the back...


cant wait to get some action shots now... but for now.. some
"In The Shop" poser shots...



AxialTuber1 by TeleFragger / RootBreaker, on Flickr


AxialTuber2 by TeleFragger / RootBreaker, on Flickr
 
I had something like this when i was a kid, broke it tho and didnt know to fix it.
 
This is what i've managed to work up so far for the school robotics project. Its just the basic model assembled following directions. I'm using an IR reciever on the Robot like found in many of our household entertainment devices and using a tv remote to match up to it which has been programmed to a sony tv since sony tv's recieve their signals in binary code its the easiest to work with. For all intents and purposes of passing the class im fairly sure im done. Providing that an IR signal will work in sunlight (i've been told it can either distort it or completely block it out.) in which case i'd need to figure something out. Find that out with the morning light though.
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The fun project i'm working on is this. Its my HPI RS4. Due to a decimated Butterfly valve the engine is unusable,and since our race is around campus i'd like to use a electric motor for the noise level as well. I go to the Local hobby store tonight to look for an electric motor with a similair bolt pattern to the floor and equal length if possible. If they are to be believed the ''only'' way to perform such a change is by rearranging the entire car to work around it buying a new chassis and so on.

Since thats obviously not an option and this car really only needs to run a couple hundred feet i pulled some crap off to get a better look and im thinking if i managed to find a gear that would match the gear which came off the motor and managed to attach it onto the shaft of a DC motor i could be in business. Now as far as powering the DC motor since i already have a program to run two servo motors i was thinking of using my current throttle servo to turn a poteniometer and that would act as my throttle response. If i could use my current controller and reciever for this car at 27.145mhz the actions would be far smoother since im really only using a For If command on the board seen on the previous robot that determines which button is being pressed by the pulse lengths and then acts on a set of preprogrammed commands once it recieves that signal which is cool, But it doesnt give you the smooth and gradual servo response. I have no idea how i would program it to operate gradually on a frequency though short of programming hundreds of if then commands :dunno:. I dont quite get how the gears mount to the DC motors shaft though? I need a positive lock to put enough power through this thing to make it work and it looks like that is achieved by getting a shaft and gear with matching notches in them but i havent had any luck finding them for sale like that.

Anyone know where i can get a small DC motor with a matching gear similair to this one or just the gear itself would be helpful.

Picture of said gear

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Just because I'm impatient, I took all the electronics out of my slash and put then in the scx10 to get it going. I havent glued the tires yet, and it kept ripping the beads off so I switched to the slash wheel/tires that actually fit well.

I think the 12 turn motor is too much, would pull wheelies like nothing on carpet. Im gonna get one in the 20-25 turn range I think to slow it down some. Just screwing around in the basement, and it got into a wall and broke the steering servo already.

What would you guys recomend for a better servo? I look on Tower hobbies site, and the options are endless, and on rccrawler.com my brain gets overloaded.
 
I look on Tower hobbies site, and the options are endless, and on rccrawler.com my brain gets overloaded.

I have the same issue. Have not done upgrades, because it is all too confusing.

My Scorpion is stock. My wraith only has aluminum knuckles. My Slayer Pro 4x4 is bone stock. But they all run.
 
I Just ordered the velineon brusless kit for the slash, kind of a F-it moment, been wanting that for quite a while though. Gotta show my brother in law up.:D

I also ordered 3 of the rebuild kits for the servo. Ill get a better one for the scx10 tomorrow, and put the traxass one back in the slash.

Has anyone else seen the 55 Chevy body for short course trucks? I'm so getting one of those next. http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/fifty-five-sc-baja-040-clear-body/rc-trucks?pp=25&pp=25
 
Thats why I dont sell **** anymore. Its always the "can I make payments" or "I get paid next tuesday and will pay you then" type BS. Ill keep it and never use it, or just give it away depending what it is.

You were in a quite different situation though too.
 
And he WAS a friend of a friend. But I cost him a $30k job. I was asked for a recommendation to do a full build on a truck. I did not recommend him, even though it was right up his alley. The owner listed 5 shops. He was on the list. I said anyone but him.
 
My stuff is all tucked away in the crawl space, have to dig it out again this winter

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