The RedBurb

[fordmas]

Is that yours?

I’ve thought about wood slats a lot, and I think is the preference. Especially cedar. I’m torn between that or using the LMC headliner I have sitting in the closet. The LMC is free and quicker to install, but I’m convinced will not last long, and I’ll be doing this again at some point in the future.

Maybe I’m giving myself my answer.

It’s not mine yet. Pulled that from the Suboverland website. He’s on IG too @suboverland. Got a YT channel as well.

I love the idea of adding some nice real rustic wood to the big steel beast. Need to sort out some in ceiling wiring, rust, and sound deadening first but I’m going to do this probably next year.

Sounds like you have your own answer. Do it twice sounds like twice the work unless you just need something in asap for those harsh FL winters. If it’s bare, it’s easier to plan out the cedar planks

 

[mrk5]

You could sell the LMC headliner to get some cash for other projects.

 

[AugustDiesel]

You could sell the LMC headliner to get some cash for other projects.

Ive had it posted for sale on marketplace forever.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Productive lunch hour.

I got the two main tubes for the roof rack bent. This is as close to a full coverage rack as I’ll be getting. These will tie into the rear roof/latch bar and stop just behind the cab lights. Dimensions are roughly 4x10. The main tubes bend at 90* in front to tie together, and each have a 30* bend downward to tie into the rear roof bar, since that bar sits super close to the roof which dips quite a bit in the rear. There will be 3 lateral support tubes in the middle. I’ll save the notching and cutting and tacking for tomorrow.

Pictures of the tubes resting on the 2x4 in front show what I’m aiming for as far as height: relatively close to the roof.



Andy

 

[fordmas]

Looking nice!

 

[AugustDiesel]

Looking nice!

Thank you!

 

[AugustDiesel]

Not much done today. Finished mounting the switches for the cab lights and front spot lights.

Also spent a bunch of time trying to install a toggle switch for the turn signals, to no avail.

My turn signal switch is bad and my preference is to change to a toggle style on-off-on switch instead of replacing the switch in the steering wheel. In my head it’s simpler and easier to maintain.

Using a SPDT switch, I can get the turn signals to work fine, but the brake lights don’t work if the white wire from the brake pedal switch isn’t connected. But when I connect that wire, the brakes work but either turn signal position lights up all corners like hazard lights.

So I’m at a loss. Some YouTube researching seems to indicate a pair of relays may be required, but I’m not fully comprehending all of that right now.

I’m real close to just deciding to rewire the whole truck to work like I want it to. But I’ll hold off for now.

Anyone have any ideas how to get this toggle switch idea to work?

Andy

 

[mrk5]

I don't have any good input other than the way the turn signals and brake lights are wired in these trucks seem overly complicated to me.

 

[ktmoutfront]

The blinker switch in the column is was designates what turns on when using the blinkers. The brake lights run through them.

 

[AugustDiesel]

I don't have any good input other than the way the turn signals and brake lights are wired in these trucks seem overly complicated to me.

The blinker switch in the column is was designates what turns on when using the blinkers. The brake lights run through them.

The problem seems to lie in the fact that the turn signals and the brake lights both work off the same wire to the tail housing. If they were on different circuits to different lights, this might not be an issue.

 

[ZooMad75]

The problem seems to lie in the fact that the turn signals and the brake lights both work off the same wire to the tail housing. If they were on different circuits to different lights, this might not be an issue.

Ok I'm going to be blunt here, so no offense intended.

Fix the turn signals the right way. Bastardizing the truck with a on-off-on switch is going to be a pain in the ass in the long run. Won't cancel on turns plus as you found the taillights aren't wired right for that.

Nobody likes digging into a Saginaw steering column but consider it a squarebody right of passage. Everything you have done so far is massive compared to the average shade tree guy. Why get freaked out over a turn signal switch? If you got a tilt column you can get to the 4 screws notorious for backing off and screwing up the turn signal switch. It's a tedious little project but if you got the lock plate tool and a steering wheel puller you have the rest of the tools in your box to do the job. Take a lazy Sunday and take your time. Lay all the parts out as you take them out and find one of the many exploded view drawings floating around here. We've all been through one and can walk you through it.

Again just a quick pause to make you think about the direction you are heading in.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Ok I'm going to be blunt here, so no offense intended.

Fix the turn signals the right way. Bastardizing the truck with a on-off-on switch is going to be a pain in the ass in the long run. Won't cancel on turns plus as you found the taillights aren't wired right for that.

Nobody like digging into a Saginaw steering column but consider it a squarebody right of passage. Everything you have done so far is massive compared to the average shade tree guy. Why get freaked out over a turn signal switch? If you got a tilt column you can get to the 4 screws notorious for backing off and screwing up the turn signal switch. It's a tedious little project but if you got the lock plate tool and a steering wheel puller you have the rest of the tools in your box to do the job. Take a lazy Sunday and take your time. Lay all the parts out as you take them out and find one of the many exploded view drawings floating around here. We've all been through one and can walk you through it.

Again just a quick pause to make you think about the direction you are heading in.

That would be the easiest route and I’ve done it a couple of times already. But I don’t have the tilt wheel, I swapped in a fixed column. It’s been a few years now so I don’t remember the specifics, but there was something about the column I swapped in, seems like maybe an irreplaceable part (could be wrong) but something was up that caused the turn signal lever to not work quite right, even with a new internal switch installed. That’s why this time around I was thinking about a toggle switch. I’m also planning to cut out the factory dash this winter and build a tube dash that has everything laid out more to my liking. Plus, my truck is already thoroughly bastardized, so I figured what’s one more toggle switch. Already have the wiper switch and high beam switch moved elsewhere.

 

[ZooMad75]

That would be the easiest route and I’ve done it a couple of times already. But I don’t have the tilt wheel, I swapped in a fixed column. It’s been a few years now so I don’t remember the specifics, but there was something about the column I swapped in, seems like maybe an irreplaceable part (could be wrong) but something was up that caused the turn signal lever to not work quite right, even with a new internal switch installed. That’s why this time around I was thinking about a toggle switch. I’m also planning to cut out the factory dash this winter and build a tube dash that has everything laid out more to my liking. Plus, my truck is already thoroughly bastardized, so I figured what’s one more toggle switch. Already have the wiper switch and high beam switch moved elsewhere.

I get the direction you are heading in, but you are creating a lot more work for yourself in the process.

The turn and brake lights are on the same circuit. Separating them will require a whole new circuit to run from your switch to the lights on each side. Your led lights probably don't have a separate circuit for stop and turn either. So you'll change them for ones that do.


No aftermarket replacement harness is going to be different than factory unless there is an option for a separate circuit for turn and brake lights.

If there's a part you can't find out the word out for another column. Most guys don't want the non-tilt version and they don't have the higher cost of the tilt version. I'm betting one of our ck5 squarebody parts hoarders have access to multiple or know where to find one quick.

 

[AugustDiesel]

I get the direction you are heading in, but you are creating a lot more work for yourself in the process.

The turn and brake lights are on the same circuit. Separating them will require a whole new circuit to run from your switch to the lights on each side. Your led lights probably don't have a separate circuit for stop and turn either. So you'll change them for ones that do.


No aftermarket replacement harness is going to be different than factory unless there is an option for a separate circuit for turn and brake lights.

If there's a part you can't find out the word out for another column. Most guys don't want the non-tilt version and they don't have the higher cost of the tilt version. I'm betting one of our ck5 squarebody parts hoarders have access to multiple or know where to find one quick.

I may have found exactly what I’m looking for.

American Auto Wire Turn Signal Switch

According to their video, this turn signal toggle switch maintains the turn and brake functions through the single wires to the back without having to run a second wire. It seems to function exactly the same as the factory switch, just packaged in a toggle. I’ll give this a shot, and if it doesn’t work, I give in and replace the factory switch.

 

[6872xtc]

That would be the easiest route and I’ve done it a couple of times already. But I don’t have the tilt wheel, I swapped in a fixed column. It’s been a few years now so I don’t remember the specifics, but there was something about the column I swapped in, seems like maybe an irreplaceable part (could be wrong) but something was up that caused the turn signal lever to not work quite right, even with a new internal switch installed. That’s why this time around I was thinking about a toggle switch. I’m also planning to cut out the factory dash this winter and build a tube dash that has everything laid out more to my liking. Plus, my truck is already thoroughly bastardized, so I figured what’s one more toggle switch. Already have the wiper switch and high beam switch moved elsewhere.

So you are going to be the one driving down the road with the turn signal on for miles...
Got it.
I fixed a buddy's tilt steering column in a parking lot one day. Less than an hour to get it unstuck and working. He couldn't get it to go to lock and release the key.
They ain't difficult if you take the time to figure them out.
And custom doesn't mean bastardized. Sometimes reinventing stuff is not progress. Just sayin'

 

[ktmoutfront]

I have a tilt column you can have for the price of the ride.

 

[joshuak]

Fixed/non tilt column here, same price as above.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Morning. I certainly appreciate everyone’s comments and guidance on this. I feel like I need to provide some clarification though.

I’m not going to redesign the entire stop/turn lighting system, redo my LEDs, or anything like that. @ZooMad75 I’m also not afraid to tear into the Saginaw column as I’ve already done it a handful of times. I was simply thinking some thoughts out loud here on the board as I was in the middle of figuring this out.

This is actually something I’ve given a fair amount of thought to over the last couple years, so it’s not a knee-jerk reaction either.

Simply put, it has just been my aim over the years to move all of the switches in the column to the dash or elsewhere as they fail and have the column be responsible for nothing other than steering. That’s just my preference. The turn signal is the last switch to go. Shoot, when my tilt column fell apart, I almost ordered an ididit column that deleted all switches but decided the price tag wasn’t worth it and got the junkyard fixed column in the truck now.

My goal with this was to be able to simply add a toggle and relocate the appropriate wires to that toggle, without having to reinvent the wheel. I was able to do that with the high beams and wiper switches. If this switch from Summit does that, then I’ve achieved my goal. If it doesn’t, then I’ll admit defeat and replace the factory switch and the column if need be.

@ktmoutfront, I appreciate that. Turns out I actually like and prefer my fixed column. It’s just the right height for me and less parts to break. So @joshuak, if I need another column, I may be hitting you up brother.

@6872xtc i may very well be that guy, but, at least at this point, I’m hoping not. The electronic flasher I’m using is plenty loud and I’m acutely aware of the modifications I’ve made to this truck, so I’m imagining I’ll always be cognizant of the lack of auto-cancel and will adjust behaviors accordingly. If I’m wrong though, I’ll bring you a $20 next time I’m in Moab .

Again thank you really everyone for your comments and guidance. Not every idea is a popular one I suppose, but to reiterate, if this can’t be as simple as just wiring in a toggle, I’ll do what needs to be done to maintain the factory turn signal, even if that means replacing the column.

Andy

 

[Capt Ron]

if this can’t be as simple as just wiring in a toggle, I’ll do what needs to be done to maintain the factory turn signal, even if that means replacing the column.

Your front turn signal and side markers actually run thru the switch as well. Independent of the rear brake/turn function.
I am pretty good with wiring and still not sure how you would get those to work in conjunction with a toggle.

 

[AugustDiesel]

Your front turn signal and side markers actually run thru the switch as well. Independent of the rear brake/turn function.
I am pretty good with wiring and still not sure how you would get those to work in conjunction with a toggle.

I know you know this already, I’m just listing this out for my own benefit:

From what I’ve learned, there are six wires at play here: front driver, front passenger, rear driver, rear passenger, flasher (provides power), and brake (also provides power).

As I’ve discovered, a 3-post SPDT switch won’t work. Not even a basic 6-post DPDT switch will work. A switch with 6 posts, each specific and designed to the intended purpose, is needed. This one from American Auto Wire seems to have just that, according to this diagram:




When braking, the switch needs to be able to override the brake signal with the turn signal to whichever side is receiving that signal, and according to their instructional video, this switch does just that.

I’ll admit this is a gamble. I don’t have any way of knowing, other than the info they provide, whether or not this switch will work on its own or if more is required.

If it doesn’t work on its own, I’ll happily return it and focus on the factory switch/column.